hedvábí

Charakteristiky surovin

Přírodní vlákno

Přírodní vlákno obsažené v hedvábí je převážně hedvábné vlákno, což je kontinuální koagulace hedvábné kapaliny vylučované kokonem, když se tvoří kokon. sahhedvábí, ricinové hedvábí a kassavasilk.

Silkfiberistheonlynaturalfilamentfiberthathasbeenputintopracticaluse.Itismadefromthecoagulationofsilkwormslime.Silkfibersaredividedintomanytypesduetothedifferentfeedinghabitsofsilkworms.Amongthem,therearemulberrysilkfibersformedbyeatingmulberryleaves,tussahsilkfibersformedbyeatingtussahleaves,andotherwildsilkfibersformedbyeatingcassavaleaves,mulberryleaves,andcastorleaves.Mulberrysilkfiberandtussahsilkfibercanretaintheformoffilamentfiberinthefilamentyarnformedbyclustering,andotherwildsilkfiberscanonlybetransformedintoshortfibersfortextileprocessing.Amongthefilamentyarnsformedbybundlingofmulberrysilkfibersandtussahsilkfibers,thefilamentyarnsofmulberrysilkfibersarethemostimportantandaccountformostofthenaturalfilamentyarns.

Struktura hedvábí

Thesilkwormspitsouttwosilksatthesametime,butaftersolidification,theywillmergetoformacocoonsilk.Thesectionofthecocoonsilkissimilartoglasses.Eachcocoonsilkcontainstwosilkfibersbondedtogetherbysericin,calledsilkfibroin,thatis,non-gluesilkfibers.Ithasacross-sectionalcharacteristicclosetoatriangle,buttheshapeandcross-sectionalareaarenotuniform.

Silkfibroinisalsocalledsilkfibroinfiber,whichisthesilkfiberthatisfinallyused.

Sericinwrapsaroundthesilkfibroinfiber,anditspresencewillhaveanimportantimpactontheuse,processingandproductstyleofthefiber.

Thecontentofsericinoneachcocoonsilkisnotuniform.Thesilkthatisspitouthaslowsericincontent,andthesilkthatisspitoutattheendhasthehighestsericincontent.Silkfiberhasarelativelycompletefibrilstructure,whichcanfullyexpresstheexcellentqualityofnaturalfiber.

Chemické složení

Fibroin(Fibroin;シルクタンパク),alsoknownassilkfibroin.Itisanitrogen-containingpolymercompound,thesinglebaseofitsmacromoleculeisalphaaminoacid.ThegeneralstructuralformulaofαaminoacidisRCH(NH₂)COOH.Becauseitsaminogroupislocatedontheαcarbonatomnexttothecarboxylgrouporcarboxylicacid,itiscalledαaminoacid.Accordingtothegeneralstructuralformulaofsilkfibroinmolecules,thesidegroupsconnectedtodifferentpeptidegroupsintheentiremacromolecularchainaredifferent,whichisanimportantfeatureofnaturalproteinfibers.

Existuje 18 druhů aminokyselin, které tvoří hedvábný fibroin. Obsah hedvábného fibroinu je asi 70 % - 80 % hedvábí, včetně glycinu (gly), alaninu (ala) a serinu (ser). Tvoří více než 80 % celkového složení.

Úprava

Althoughsilkfibroinhasmanyexcellentperformances,becausesilkfibroinmoleculescontainacertainamountofhydroxyphenolgroupsandotherThestructureiseasytoabsorbultravioletlightanddenature.Underultravioletlightirradiation,theaminoacidcompositionwillbebrokendown,andthewhitenesswillobviouslydecrease.Withtheincreaseofirradiationtime,theyellowingdegreeofsilkfibroinalsoincreases,especiallyinthepresenceofwater.Moreserious.Mechanicalpropertiesandthermalpropertieshavealsobeengreatlyreduced,whichhasagreatimpactonitsperformance,andsilkfibroinisdifficulttodyeandeasytofade.Inordertoimprovedefects,itmustbemodified.Modificationcanbedonebybiologicalgeneticmethods.Toimprovethespeciesofsilkworms,chemicalandphysicalmethodscanalsobeusedtoimprovethem,usuallychemicalmodificationandpolymerblending.

Umělá vlákna

Moderní průmyslové hedvábí má jen zřídka 100% čisté hedvábné produkty, hlavně kombinaci přírodních vláken, umělých vláken a celulózy.

Man-madefibersrefertonon-naturalfibersmadebyphysicalandchemicalmethods,whicharedividedintotwotypes:regeneratedfibersandchemicalfibers.Regeneratedfiberismadeofsomenaturalpolymercompoundsortheirderivativesasrawmaterials,whicharedissolvedintotextilesolution,andthenspunintofibrousmaterials;chemicalfiberismadeofpetroleum,naturalgas,coalandagriculturalandsidelineproductsasrawmaterialsSyntheticfibermade.Man-madefibersareaddedtosilkmainlytomakesilkanti-shrinkage,moth-proof,andeasiertopreserve.

Man-madefibershaveahistoryofonly100years.Beforethat,humanshavereliedonnaturalfiberssuchascotton,wool,silk,andlinentobeusedintextilesandclothingandotherproductionfields.Afterthe1950s,varioussyntheticfiberscameoutsuccessively,inlargequantitiesandlowprices,whichgreatlyenrichedthetotaloutputandscopeofuseoftextilefibersandbecamecompetitorsofnaturalfibers.Therawmaterialofsyntheticfiberispetroleum,buttheearth’spetroleumresourceswillbeexhaustedafter30-50years.Withthecontinuousadvancementofsocialeconomyandthechangeofconsumerconsciousness,inordertocopewiththeoilcrisisandadapttotheglobaltrendofenvironmentalprotectionconcepts,thefiberindustryalsoGraduallymoveclosertothedevelopmentanduseofnaturalfibers.Variousnewtypesoffibershavecomeout,suchasnaturalcoloredcotton,bamboofiber,Lyocellfiber,PLAfiber,soybeanproteinfiber,silkwormpupaproteinfiber,etc.,allofwhichhavethecharacteristicsofnaturalfibers,whicharenotonlyexcellentinperformancebutalsoenvironmentallyfriendly.

Hedvábné vlastnosti

Výhody

First:comfortabletowear.Realsilkiscomposedofproteinfibersandhasgoodbiocompatibilitywiththehumanbody.Inadditiontoitssmoothsurface,itsfrictionalstimulationcoefficienttothehumanbodyisthelowestamongallkindsoffibers,only7.4%.

Second:Goodmoistureabsorptionanddesorption.Silkproteinfiberisrichinmanyhydrophilicgroupssuchasaminegroups(-CONH)andaminogroups(-NH₂),andbecauseofitsporosity,itiseasyforwatermoleculestodiffuse,soitcanbeintheairItabsorbsoremitsmoistureinthemedium,andmaintainsacertainamountofmoisture.Undernormaltemperature,itcanhelptheskinretainacertainamountofmoisturewithoutmakingtheskintoodry;wearinginsummer,itcanquicklydissipatesweatandheatfromthehumanbody,makingpeoplefeelextremelycool.

Silkhasnotonlygoodheatdissipationperformance,butalsogoodwarmthretention.Itsthermalinsulationbenefitsfromtheporousfiberstructure.Therearemanyveryfinefibersinsilkfibers,andthesefinefibersarecomposedofevenfinerfibers.Therefore,morethan38%oftheseeminglysolidsilkisactuallyhollow.Thereisalargeamountofairinthesegaps,whichpreventsthedissipationofheatandmakesthesilkhavegoodwarmthretention.

Third:Soundabsorption,dustabsorption,flameretardant.Silkfabrichasahighporosity,soithasgoodsoundabsorptionandairabsorption,soinadditiontomakingclothing,itcanalsobeusedforinteriordecoration.Becausesilkhasmoistureabsorption,moisturereleaseproperties,moistureretention,airabsorptionandporosity,itcanalsoadjustindoortemperatureandhumidity,andcanabsorbharmfulgases,dust,andmicroorganisms.Inaddition,realsilkfibershavelowthermaldenaturationandarerelativelyheatresistant.Whenheatedto100℃,onlyabout5-8%embrittlement,whilemostsyntheticfibershaveathermaldeflectionthatis4-5timeslargerthanthatofsilk.Theburningtemperatureofsilkis300-400℃,whichisaflame-retardantfiber,whiletheburningtemperatureofsyntheticfiberis200-260℃,whichisflammableandeasytomelt.Therefore,theuseofsilkfiberasarawmaterialforinteriordecorationcannotonlyplayaroleinsoundabsorption,dustabsorption,andheatpreservation,butalsoplayaflameretardantfunction.

Fourth:UVresistance.Thetryptophanandtyrosineinsilkproteincanabsorbultravioletlight,sosilkhasagoodanti-ultravioletfunction.Ultravioletraysareveryharmfultohumanskin.Ofcourse,aftersilkabsorbsultravioletrays,itundergoeschemicalchanges,sothatsilkfabricsarepronetoyellowingundersunlight.

Fifth:healthcare.Thehealthcarefunctionofsilkfiberisirreplaceable.Itcontains18kindsofaminoacidsnecessaryforthehumanbody,whichisalmostthesameastheaminoacidscontainedinhumanskin,soitisalsocalledthe"secondskin"ofhumanbeings.Wearingsilkclothescannotonlypreventultravioletradiation,preventharmfulgasesfrominvading,andresistharmfulbacteria,butalsoenhancethevitalityofskincellsonthebody,promoteskincellmetabolism,andhaveagoodauxiliarytherapeuticeffectoncertainskindiseases.

Nevýhody

Vrásčité, snadno sající, nedostatečně silné a rychle mizí.

Silkweavingprocess

Silkreeling

Theoriginalsilkreelingmethodistosoakthecocooninahotpotofsoup,drawthesilkbyhand,andwinditinThesilkbasketbecomestherawmaterialforweavingsilk.Basinsandbasketsaretheoriginalsilkreelingequipment.Onesilkwormcocooncandrawoutabout1,000metersofcocoonsilk,andseveralcocoonsilksarecombinedintorawsilk.

Silkreelingisamajorprocessinthesilk-makingprocess.Accordingtoproductspecifications,severalboiledcocoonsilksaredissociatedandcombinedintorawsilkortussahsilk.Therearemanysilkreelingmethods.Accordingtothedifferenceoftheupsanddownsofthecocoonsduringsilkreeling,theycanbedividedintothreetypes:floatingreeling,semi-sinkingreeling,andsinkingreeling.Theupsanddownsofsilkwormcocoonsaremainlydeterminedbytheamountofwaterabsorbedinthecocooncavityafterthecocoonisboiled.Accordingtothedifferenttypesofsilkreelingmachines,itcanbedividedintotwotypes:verticalreelingandautomaticreeling.Accordingtothedifferentperceptiontypesoftheautomaticsilkreelingmachine,itcanbedividedintotwotypes:fixed-grainperceptionreelingandfixed-fibreperceptionreeling.Theprocessofdrawingcocoonsoutofsilkisgenerallyreferredtoassilkreeling.

Weaving

Afterprocessing,rawsilkisdividedintowarpandweft,andtheyareinterwoventoformasilkfabricaccordingtoacertainorganizationallaw.Thisistheweavingprocess.Theproductionprocessofallkindsofsilkfabricsisnotthesame,andcanberoughlydividedintotwotypes:rawweavingandcookedweaving:rawweaving,thatis,thewarpandweftsilksarefirstmadeintofabricswithoutsmeltinganddyeing,whichiscalledgreensilk,andthenthegreensilkissmeltedanddyed.Intothefinishedproduct.Thisproductionmethodhaslowcostandshortprocess,andisthemainmethodusedinsilkproduction.Cookedweavingmeansthatthewarpandweftyarnsaredyedbeforeweaving,andthefinishedsilkdoesnotneedtobedyedtobecomeafinishedproduct.Thismethodismostlyusedintheproductionofhigh-endsilkfabrics,suchasbrocadeandtaffeta.Beforeweaving,preparatoryworkmustbedone,suchasdippingtosoftensericin,doublingandtwistingofsilkthatcanimproveproductperformance,aswellaswarpingandweftrolling.Atthesametime,becausesilkishighlyhygroscopic,itisnecessarytodoagoodjobofpreventingmoisture.Theautomaticloomsusedinsilkweavingproductionmainlyinclude:waterjetloomsusedtoproducesyntheticfiberfilamentfabricsandrapierloomsusedtoproducemulti-colorweftjacquardfabrics.

Dyeingandfinishing

Dyeingandfinishingreferstotheprocessofchemicaltreatmentoftextilematerials(fibers,yarnsandfabrics),whichisalsocommonlyreferredtoasprintinganddyeinginmoderntimes.Dyeingandfinishing,togetherwithspinning,weavingorknittingproduction,formthewholeprocessoftextileproduction.Thequalityofdyeingandfinishinghasanimportantinfluenceontheusevalueoftextiles.Theprocessmainlyincludestherefining,bleaching,dyeing,printingandfinishingofrawsilkandfabrics.

Upřesněno

Silkiscomposedoftwomonofilaments.Themainbodyissilkandtheouterlayeriswrappedwithsericin.Mostofthepigments,oils,waxesandinorganicsaltsarepresentinsericin.Theseimpuritieshaveagreatinfluenceontheeffectofprintinganddyeing,sotheymustberemovedbeforedyeing.Inlong-termpractice,peoplehavemasteredthecharacteristicsofsericinthatiseasilydissolvedinhotwaterundertheactionofchemicalagentsorenzymes,andtakeadvantageoftheweaknessofsericintoputrawsilkorrawsilkintosoap(orsyntheticdetergent)andThemixedsolutionofsodaash(sodiumcarbonate)isheated,andthesericinisheatedandthenhydrolyzed.Aftersuchrefining,thesericinisremovedandthesilkproteinispreserved,andimpuritiessuchaspigments,fats,andwaxesareremoved,soastoobtainsilkproductswithawhitecolor.Degummingisalsocalledrefining,andtherawsilkafterdegummingiscalledcookedsilk.Thedegreeofrawsilkdegummingmustbedeterminedaccordingtoproductionrequirements.

Bělení

Thedegummedsilkfibershouldbebleachedtoremovenaturalpigments.Otherwise,whendyeinglightcolors,thecolorofthefinishedproductwillchangeduetothepresenceofnaturalpigments.Silkcanbebleachedbyoxidationorreductionofvariousbleachingagents.Therehavebeenreportsontheprocessofbleachingsilkwithhydrogenperoxideinthepresenceofacatalyst.ThioureadioxideisareductivebleachingagentwithlowBODandCODvalues,soitcanbeusedasalow-pollutionnon-toxicbleachingagent.However,comparedwiththesodiumsulfide,althoughitisheavilypolluted,itisstillusedinlargequantities.However,theapplicationofTDUislimitedduetoitshighprice.

Barvení

Afterrefiningthewhitesilk,itentersthedyeingstage.Dyeingistheprocessofchemicallyreactingdyeswithsilkwormsandsilk,sothatthesilkcanbedyedwithvariouscolors.Sincesilkisaproteinfiber,itisnotalkali-resistant,sodyeingshouldbecarriedoutinanacidicorclosetoneutraldyeingsolution.Themaindyesusedinsilkfabricsare:aciddyes,reactivedyes,directdyesandvatdyes.Thecolordyedwithaciddyesisbrighter.Afterdyeing,itistreatedwithcationicfixingagenttoimprovethewashingfastnessoftheproduct.Reactivedyeshavegoodwashingfastnessonsilk.Thedyeingmethodofthefabricvarieswiththetypeoffabric.Forexample,crepeandgauzefabricsaredyedwithropeoroverflowjetdyeing,andspinning,silk,andsatinfabricsaredyedwithopenwidthhangingorrolldyeing.

Tisk

Acolorismonotonousafterall.Inadditiontodyeing,peoplealsouseprintingtechniquestomakesilkcolorful.Printingreferstoaprocessinwhichdyesareprintedonfabricsinaccordancewiththedesignedcolors.Commonlyusedprintingprocessesincludedirectprinting,dischargeprinting,andanti-dyeing.Directprintingmeansthatthecolorpasteisdirectlyprintedonthesilkfabricthroughthescreenprintingplate.Itisoneofthebasicprintingmethodsandcanbeprintedwithavarietyofdyes.Dischargeprinting,alsoknownasengravingprinting,isaprocessofdischargedyeingusingengravingagent.Beforeprintinganddyeing,thesilkisdyedwithaciddyesandreactivedyeswithazostructure,andthenprintedonthecoloredsilkaccordingtothepattern.Theengraving(discharge)pastemadefromtheengravingagentthatdestroysthepigment,aftersteaming,thegroundcoloroftheengravingpastebecomeswhite,whichiscalled"carvingwhite".

Potisk proti barvivu potiskuje hedvábné tkaniny "antibílou" pastou nebo "barevně stálou" pastou podle hepatterna a poté se vybarví po vysušení. Vzhledem k tomu, že první část obsahuje protibarvicí činidlo v "antibílé" pastě nebo "nebarevné" pastě, nezbarví se, zatímco zůstane skutečné.

Dokončování

Afterthesilkfabricisrefined,dyed,andprinted,thefinalfinishingworkcanbecarriedoutonthefabric.Thefinishingprocessmainlysolvestheproblemsofdampness,wrinkles,andunevenwidthleftoverfromthepreviousprocesses,highlightsthesoftnessofthesilkfabricitselfandincreasesitswearingfunction,andmainlyadoptstwomethodsofmechanicalfinishingandchemicalfinishing.Mechanicalfinishingincludestenteringfinishing,steamironing,calendering,etc.;chemicalfinishingismainlytoaddchemicalagents,suchassofteners,antistaticagents,fireretardants,sandlotionscomposedofsodaashandtrisodiumphosphate,etc.Soastoachievetheeffectofanti-wrinkle,anti-shrinkage,softnessandthickness.Thetreatedfabricsarenotonlymoresuitableforwearing,buttheconsumptionfieldofsilkisalsobroadened.

Historická evoluce

Počáteční vývoj

Starodávné legendy, Huangdiho manželka LeiZu vynalezla „pěstování hedvábí“, ale skutečnost, když vassilk? Tento vynález je stále kontroverzní.

ExpertsspeculatebasedonarchaeologicalfindingsthatinthemiddleoftheNeolithicperiodfivetosixthousandyearsago,Chinabegantoraisesilkworms,takesilk,andweavesilk.WhatreallyshowsthatthesilkwormcocoonsareusedisthehalfofthesilkwormcocoonsexcavatedinXiyinVillage,XiaCounty,ShanxiProvincein1926.AccordingtotheresearchofarchaeologistLiJiandentomologistLiuZhenle,itisdeterminedtobeasilkwormcocoon.Thecocoonshellisabout1.36cmlongand1.04cmwide.Thepartofthecocooniscutawaywithasharpblade.TheageofXiyinVillagewastheYangshaoperiod(about5600-6000yearsago),whichprovidedpeoplewithphysicalobjectstostudytheoriginofsilk.

Čtyři rakve Weng byly nalezeny v místě Wanggous v Xingyangu v provincii Henan, které je údajně staré asi 5 500 let.

PeoplehavediscoveredtextiletoolsintheHemudusite,andfromthisitcanbeinferredthattheuseofsilkisatleastnolaterthantheLiangzhuculture.ThemostinfluentialargumentisthearchaeologicaldiscoveryofChinesescientistsin1958,thesilkfabricsoftheDawenkoucultureperiod5300yearsago.

SilkfabrictechnologyhasbeenmonopolizedbyChinaforhundredsofyears.Becauseitsweavingtechnologywasacomplicatedprocessatthattime,andbecauseofitsuniquehandleandluster,itattractedpeople’sattention.Therefore,silkfabricsbecameanindustrialrevolution.Inthepast,theworld'smaininternationaltradematerials.Theearliestsilkfabricscouldonlybeusedbyemperors,buttherapiddevelopmentofthesilkindustryallowedsilkculturetocontinuouslypenetrateintoChineseculturegeographicallyandsocially.Andithasbecomeanindispensablehigh-enditemintheforeigntradeofChinesebusinessmen.

Atfirst,Chinastrictlycontrolledthespreadofsilkweavingandsericulturetechnology,andprohibiteditsflowtoforeigncountries.However,withtheassistanceofChineseimmigrants,NorthKoreasuccessfullyachievedabreakthroughinsericulturetechnologyintheprevious200years.Inaddition,theWesternRegionHetianRiverBasin(thefirst500years-thefirst300years)andIndia(300yearsago)successfullyrealizedsericulture.However,theRomanEmpireonlyobtainedsilkwormeggsanddevelopedsericulturetechnologyinabout550years.

DuringtheShangandZhouDynasties

DuringtheShangDynasty,agriculturehadagreatdevelopment,andthesericultureindustryalsoformedacertainscale.AlthoughthenumberofShangDynastysilkfabricsdiscoveredbyarchaeologyislimited,jacquardsilkfabricshaveappeared,whichshowsthattheweavingtechnologyatthattimehasreachedaconsiderablelevel.

IntheWesternZhouDynasty,therulershadalreadystrictlyorganizedandmanagedtheindustrialproduction,andthesilkproductiontechnologyhadimprovedcomparedwiththeShangDynasty.

TheSpringandAutumnPeriodandtheWarringStatesPeriodwasaperiodoftransitionfromslaverytofeudalisminChinesehistory.Theproductiveforcesandsocio-economicpatternshaveundergonetremendouschanges.Thesericultureandsilkindustryhasalsoreceivedattention,andthedevelopmentofagriculturalmulberryhasbecomeanimportantnationalpolicyfortheprosperityofthecountryandthepeople.

DuringtheWarringStatesPeriod,farmerswhocombinedagricultureandhandicraftsbecamethebasicproductionunitsofsociety,andhandicraftsbecameanimportantpartoftheagriculturaleconomy.Thespecializeddivisionoflaborinsilkproductionismoreobvious,andsometechnologieshavebeenpasseddownfromgenerationtogenerationandhavereachedaveryhighlevel.Silkcanbeproducedinalmostallplaces,andthevarietiesofsilkarealsoabundant,mainlydividedintothreecategories:silk,silk,andbrocade.TheemergenceofbrocadeisanimportantmilestoneinthehistoryofChinesesilk.Itcombinestheexcellentperformanceofsilkwithfineart.Itisnotonlyanobleclothingmaterial,butalsoaworkofart.Ithasgreatlyimprovedtheculturalconnotationandhistoricalvalueofsilkproducts,andhasafar-reachingimpact.Atthistime,ChinesesilkalsospreadtoIndia.TheIndianpoliticianandphilosopherKautilya’s"Politics"(alsotranslatedas"AdministrationoftheState")hasthewordcinapatta,whichmeans"ChinaBundlesofsilk".Inaddition,itcanbeseenfrommanycharactersinSanskritthattheancientIndianpeopleknewmoreaboutsilkthantheGreeksandRomans.Theyknewthatsilkwasspitbyworms,andsilkwasdrawnfromcocoons.

QinandHanDynasties

TheQinandHanDynastieswereaperiodofinitialconsolidationanddevelopmentofChinesefeudalsociety.TheunificationoftheQinandtheestablishmentofacentralizedpowersystemlaidthefoundationfortheprosperityoftheHanDynasty.IntheearlyHanDynasty,thepolicyof"cultivatingwiththepeople"wasimplemented,whichpromotedtherapideconomicdevelopment.Alarge-scalegovernment-runsilkindustrywasestablished,anditsproductsmainlymettheneedsofthecourtandthegovernment;theprivatesilkweavingindustryalsohadagreatdevelopment,andsomeworkshopsformedtheirownproductcharacteristicsandpopularity.ComparedwiththeShangandZhoudynasties,thesilk-producingareasdeveloped.ThefocusofsilkproductionintheWesternHanDynastywasinthemiddleandlowerreachesoftheYellowRiver.StartingfromtheEasternHanDynasty,theShubrocadeinthesouthwesthasbecomeawell-knownsilkproductthroughoutthecountry.

DuringtheQinandHandynasties,notonlydidthesilkweavingindustrygetgreatdevelopment,butwiththelarge-scaleexpansionofChina'sforeigninfluenceintheHanDynasty,thetradeandexportofsilkreachedunprecedentedprosperity.DuringEmperorWuoftheHanDynasty,heattackedtheXiongnuinthenorthandcontrolledtheHexiCorridorleadingtotheWesternRegions.ZhangQianmadetwomissionstotheWesternRegions,connectingtheinlandoftheCentralPlainstotheWesternRegionsandconnectingtheEurasiancontinent.ThepromotionoftradeledtothefurtherdevelopmentofeconomicandculturalexchangesbetweentheCentralPlainsandthefrontiers,Chinaanditsneighborsintheeastandwest,thusformingthefamous"SilkRoad".ThisroadstartsfromChang'an,goesthroughGansuandXinjiangallthewaywest,passesthroughCentralAsiaandWestAsia,andfinallyreachesEurope.InthethirdyearofYuanshuo(126yearsago),underthewestwardpolicyofEmperorWuoftheHanDynasty,ChinesesilkandsilkwerecontinuouslyexportedtoCentralAsia,WestAsiaandEuropethroughtheSilkRoad.AlargeamountofHansilkwasunearthedalongtheSilkRoad.Thefabricwasthephysicalevidenceoftheprosperityofthetradeatthattime.China'ssilkproductiontechnologyalsospreadtoCentralAsiaduringthisperiod.

DuringtheWeiandJinDynasties

DuringtheWei,JinandSouthernandNorthernDynasties,warscontinueduninterrupted,thecountrywasdividedforalongtime,andtheregimechangedfrequently.Severesocialturmoil,complicatedpoliticalstructure,andextensiveinternationalexchangeshavemadesilkproductiondifficulttodevelop,butithasrichconnotationsanddiversefaces.Duringthisperiod,thenorthwasstillthemainproducingareaof​​silkfabrics.ThesilkindustryinChengdu,Sichuanhadalwaysbeendeveloped.DuetotherelevantpoliciesoftheThreeKingdomsperiod,thedevelopmentofthesilkindustryintheJiangnanareamadenewprogress.ItwasfurtherdevelopedthroughthemanagementoftheSouthernDynasty.Afterthemid-generation,theriseofJiangnansilkweavingindustrylaidthefoundation.

Thelong-termwarsintheThreeKingdoms,JinDynasty,andNorthernandSouthernDynastiescausedseriousdamagetotheeconomyoftheYellowRiverBasin.BytheSuiDynasty,thecenterofChina'ssericultureandsilkindustryhadshiftedtotheYangtzeRiverBasin.

TheSuiandTangDynasties

TheSuiandTangDynastieswerethepeakofthedevelopmentofChinesefeudalsociety.Ingeneral,thecountrywasstrong,economicallydeveloped,andbusinessprosperous,especiallytheculturalopeningup.Theeraisgraceful,generous,andeclectic.Thesilkindustryhasalsoseenaclimaxofdevelopmentonthissocialbasis.Atthattime,therewerethreeimportantsilkproducingareas:onewastheYellowRiverBasin,withHebeiandHenanasthemainbody;theotherwastheBashuareaof​​Sichuan,wherethewestofJiannanRoadandShannanRoadcouldbeincludedinthisarea;andthethirdwasthesoutheastareaundertheYangtzeRiver.,Basicallyformingasituationwherethethreepowersstandontopofeachother.AftertheAnshiRebellion,theimportanceoftheJiangnanregionhasgreatlyincreased.Inaddition,thedevelopmentofsilkinthenorthwestregionissecondtononeintheremoteareasandshowsstronglocalcharacteristics.

TheTangDynastywastheheydayofsilkproduction,andtheoutput,qualityandvarietyreachedunprecedentedlevels.Theproductionorganizationofsilkisdividedintothreetypes:courthandicraftindustry,ruralsidelineindustryandindependenthandicraftindustry,andthescaleisgreatlyexpandedcomparedwiththepreviousgeneration.Atthesametime,theforeigntradeofsilkhasalsobeengreatlydeveloped.Notonlyhasthenumberofchannelsonthe"SilkRoad"increasedtothree,butthefrequencyoftradehasalsobeenunprecedentedlyhigh.TheproductionandtradeofsilkmadeahugecontributiontotheprosperityoftheTangDynasty.

ThesilktradeintheTangDynastywasverydeveloped,andtheland-basedsilkcommercialroadsusedaroundaboutroadtothenorth.TheMaritimeSilkRoadalsoemergedduringthisperiod.SilkproductswereexportedtotheKoreanPeninsula,JapanandSoutheastAsia,India,andevenspreadtoEuropebyArabmerchantsthroughtheEastChinaSeaLineandtheSouthChinaSeaLine.Theprosperityofthesilktradeledtothespreadofsilktechnology.Bythe7thcentury,silkproductionstartedfromJapanintheeast,Europeinthewest,andIndiainthesouthwest,whichbasicallylaidthefoundationforthepatternofsilkproductionareasinthefuture.

TheTwoSongDynasties

IntheSongDynasty,withtheadvancementofsericulturetechnology,Chinesesilkhadashortperiodofglory.Notonlyhasthevarietyofsilkpatternsincreasedsignificantly,especiallythreedistinctivenewvarietiesofsilkbrocade,silkandgold-decoratedfabricshaveappeared,andagreatbreakthroughhasbeenmadeinthesummaryandpromotionofsericultureproductiontechnology.

TheYellowRiverBasin,JiangnanregionandSichuanregionwereimportantproducingareasforsilkproductionintheNorthernSongDynasty.ThefocusofproductioninthemiddleandlatestageshasbeenshiftedtotheJiangnanregion,buttheNorthstillmaintainsanadvantageintheproductionofhigh-endsilkfabrics.IntheSouthernSongDynasty,thesilkproductionareaswerebasicallyconcentratedintheYangtzeRiverBasin,andthesilkproductioninthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhadanabsoluteadvantage.Zhejianghasbecomeaveritable"SilkHouse".LiaobegantodevelopsericultureandsilkproductionaftercapturingthesixteenstatesofYanyun.AlthoughthesilkindustryintheJinDynastyruledareawasdestroyed,italsomaintainedacertainscale.

TheofficialsilkproductionworkshopsoftheSongDynastywereofconsiderablescale.TheLingjinInstitute,theDyeingInstitute,theWensiInstituteandtheWenxiuInstituteweresetupunderthesupervisionoftheShaofuSupervisioninthecapital.Atthesametime,government-runweavingwasalsosetupinimportantsilkproductionareas.mechanism.TheAyaNishikiInstituteinTokyohadmorethan400loomsduringtheJinzongperiod,andtheannualoutputofRunzhouweavingandLuowuwas10,000horses.Wuzhou,theemergingcenterofsilkweavingindustry,isknownasthe"clothingworld".IntheTaihuLakeBasin,"thecocoonstandsonthemountain,andthesoundofthecarriageisheard".ThefolksilkweavingindustryintheSongDynastywasverydeveloped.Inadditiontobeingatraditionalhandicraftindustryinruralareas,alargenumberofsilkweavingworkshopsemergedincities,andthepowerofprivatemachineoperatorscontinuedtogrow.Intermsofforeigntrade,duetotheinterruptionoftheSilkRoadontheland,themaritimesilktradehasmadeconsiderableprogress.China'srawsilkandsilkareexportedtoallpartsoftheworldthroughtheMaritimeSilkRoad.

YuanDynasty

BeforeunifyingChina,therulersoftheYuanDynastyadjustedtheireconomicpoliciesandpaidattentiontotheprotectionofproductivityandmeansofproduction.Theofficialestablishmentoftheagriculturalmanagementagency-theDepartmentofAgriculture,toguideandsuperviseagriculturalproduction;thefirstofficialagriculturalbook"AgriculturalMulberryCollection"inhistorywasalsoissuednationwidetopromoteadvancedproductiontechnology;Agriculturalproductionandsocialeconomyhaverecoveredanddevelopedrelativelyquickly.Westernastronomy,calendar,arithmetic,andmedicinewereintroducedtoChina,andChinesecompasses,gunpowder,andprintingwerealsospreadabroad.TheculturalexchangesbetweenChinaandforeigncountriesandthepoliticalsituationofunificationhavepromotedtheimprovementofsilktechnology.ThenorthernsilkindustryinthelowerreachesoftheYellowRiverhasrebounded,thedivisionoflaborinsilkproductionhasbeenmeticulous,andtheweavingtechnologyhasimproved;inthesouthofthemiddleandlowerreachesoftheYangtzeRiver,thepositionofthecenterofgravityofsilkproductionhasbeenfurtherconsolidatedandimproved.

Sincethemid-YuanDynasty,thepatternofproductionareashasundergonemajorchanges.Silkproductioninthenorthhasdeclined,andtheJiangnanareahasbecomemoreimportant.Thereasonisthat,ontheonehand,thecolderclimatemakesthenorthunsuitableforsericultureproduction;ontheotherhand,theplantingofcottonalsomakesthesericultureindustrytendtobeconcentrated.Thehugegovernment-runweavingsystemwasanimportantfeatureofsilkproductionintheYuanDynasty,andithadacertaininhibitoryeffectonfolksilkproduction.

MingDynasty

DuetothebuddinganddevelopmentofcapitalismintheMingDynasty,theproductionandtradeofsilkhavealsoundergonemajorchanges:thecommercializationtrendofsilkproductionhasbecomemoreandmoreobvious.Overseastradehasdevelopedrapidly.TheSuhuareainthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhasbecomethemostimportantsilkproducingarea.Anumberoftypicalsilkspecializedtownshavebeendeveloped,andtheofficialweavinghasbecomeincreasinglymature.Atthistime,thedevelopmentofChinesesilkhasreacheditsmostactiveperiod.

AtthebeginningoftheMingDynasty,thepolicyoffocusingonthedevelopmentofreclamation,constructionofwaterconservancyandrevitalizationofagriculturewasadopted,whichchangedthestatusofhandicraftslavesintheYuanDynastyandgreatlyliberatedthelaborproductivity.Inadditiontotakingturnsonaregularbasis,hereditaryhandicraftsmencanmaketheirownhandicraftsandsellthemonthemarketmostofthetime,whilealsoreducingcommercialtaxes.Therestorationofagriculture,handicraftsandcommercehaspromotedtheprogressanddevelopmentofsericultureandsilkproductiontechnology.ManybooksofhighacademicvaluehavebeenpublishedintheMingDynasty.Forexample,LiShizhen’s"CompendiumofMateriaMedica"hasmadeascientificclassificationofmulberryvarieties;XuGuangqi's"NongzhengQuanshu"in"SericultureChapter"hasacomprehensivediscussiononsericultureproduction;SongYingxing's"HeavenlyCreations"wasthemostimportantworkonsilkproductionatthattime.

IntheearlyMingDynasty,aseriesofmeasureswereadoptedtoemphasizeagricultureandthrift.Theproductionareaof​​sericultureandsilkindustryhasbeenreduced,butaregionalintensiveproductioncenteredonthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhasbeenformed.JiaandHuarethefivemajorsilktowns.Afterthemid-MingDynasty,thesocialatmospheregraduallybecameextravagant.Undertheconditionsofcommodityeconomyandprofessionaldivisionoflabor,thesilkindustryandcommerceintheJiangnanregionenjoyedgreatprosperity.

Thegovernment-runweavingindustryintheMingDynastywasrelativelylarge.InadditiontotheestablishmentofcentraldyeingandweavinginstitutionsinNanjingandBeijing,localweavinganddyeingbureauswereestablishedinSuzhou,Hangzhou,andmorethan20placesacrossthecountry.,Tosupplythehorsesneededbythecourtandthegovernmenteveryyear.Therearetwotypesofproductionmethods,"localweaving"andoutgoing"collarweaving".Localweavingisashiftservicesystem,andthecollarweavingisaprivatemachine.ThepersonalattachmentofcraftsmenislooserthanthatoftheYuanDynasty.

Silkproductsflowedintoneighboringcountriesandregionsintheformofroyalrewards.Afterthemid-MingDynasty,thegovernmentsetup"Shibosi"inGuangzhou,Quanzhou,Ningboandotherplaces.ChineserawsilkandsilkweresoldinlargequantitiestoJapanandtoEuropeviaMacau.

DuringtheQingDynasty

IntheearlyQingDynasty,thesilkindustrysufferedheavylossesinthewar.TheKangxiperiodadoptedencouragementmeasures,andsilkproductiondevelopedrapidly,anditwasfurtherconcentratedintheTaihuLakeareaandthePearlRiverDelta.Inparticular,theJiangnanareabecamethecenterofthenationalsilkindustryintermsofscaleandlevel.

TheQingDynastygovernment-runweavingsystemabolishedtheMingDynastycraftsmanshipsystem,andtherawmaterialswerealsomainlypurchased.TheoverallscalewasreducedcomparedwiththeMingDynasty.TheimportantonesareJiangningWeavingBureau,SuzhouWeavingBureauandHangzhouWeavingBureau,Collectivelyknownas"JiangnanThreeWeaving",responsibleforsupplyingallkindsofsilkfabricsneededbythecourtandgovernment.Theproductionscaleoftheprivatesilkweavingindustryhasexpanded,andtheprofessionalandregionaldivisionoflaborhasbecomemoreobvious.Anumberofprosperoussilkprofessionaltownshaveemergedwithawidevarietyofproductsandaprosperousdomesticmarket.Intermsofforeigntrade,seabanshavebeenstrictlyenforced,therestrictionsonforeigntradehavebeenstrengthened,andone-portcommercehasbeenimplemented.Nevertheless,China'srawsilkexportstoJapanandrawsilkandsilkfabricsexportstoEuropeancountrieshavestillreachedaconsiderablescale.

InthelateQingDynasty,China'ssilkindustryfellintoaverysadsituationunderthedoubleblowofheavytaxesandforeigndumping.

DuringtheRepublicofChina

The"IndustrialPlan"formulatedbySunYat-senlisted750,000tonsofcocoons,71,000tonsofsilk,and1.125billionmetersofsilkaccordingtotheneedsof450millionpeopleinChinaatthattime.“Improvethesilkindustrytoincreaseproduction”,“researchthespinningmethodstoocarefully,andimprovethetypes,varieties,qualityandcolorofsilk”inthe"People’sLivelihood",sothat"China’ssilkindustrycanOnlythroughgradualprogresscanwecompetewithforeigncountries.Mr.Zhongshansaid,"IfChina’smulberryleaves,silkwormeggsandsilkqualityarenotimproved,ortheoldlawsarenotimproved,China’ssilkindustrywillnotonlyfail.Thewarningof"elimination"becametheconsensusofthenationalsilkindustryatthattime.Manypeopleofinsightrushedtocallfor"industrytosavethecountry",requestingtheestablishmentofsilktechnicalschools,thedevelopmentofsilkproduction,andtheincreaseofsilkexports.Atthattime,someindustrialistsrespondedpositively,andthegovernmentalsoresponded.Withcertainsupport,theproductiontechnologyofmulberrysericulture,silkwormreelingandsilkweavinghasbeenimproved.Silkhasbecomeanimportantmaterialforthecountry’sforeignexports,accountingformorethan20%ofthecountry’stotalexportvalueatthattime.(1937),whentheWarofResistanceAgainstJapanbegan,theJapaneseimperialistsinvadedandoccupiedChina'smainsilkproducingareassuchasJiangsu,Zhejiang,Shandong,andGuangdong,plunderingsilkresourcesandunderminingChina'ssilkproduction.Inthe34thyearoftheRepublicofChina(1945),afterthevictoryoftheAnti-JapaneseWarSoonafterthecivilwarbetweentheKuomintangandtheCommunistParty,theproductionandexportofcocoonsilkwasthelowestpointintheRepublicofChinainthe38thyearoftheRepublicofChina(1949),andtheentiresilkindustrywasdying.

Moderndevelopment

Domesticdevelopment

Inthetenyearsfrom1980to1990,China'srawsilkproductionincreasedfrom36,000tonsto57,000tons,andtheoutputofsilkfabricsmorethandoubled;theconsumptionofsilkfabricsItalsoincreasedfrom400millionmetersto1.22billionmeters.Therawsilkexportsaccountedformorethan80%oftheworld’srawsilktradevolume,andsilksandsatinalsoaccountedforabout50%.Theyhaveregainedthedominantpositionintheworldsilkmarket,andthesilkindustryhasbecomethecountry’smainstayofforeignexchangeearnings.Industry,arelativelycompletesilkindustrysystemhasbeenestablished,andsilkproductsaresoldinmorethan100countriesandregions.

WiththecontinuousadvancementofthetechnologicallevelofChina’ssilkindustry,thepaceoftechnologicalinnovationhasalsobeenaccelerated,especiallyforcomputers,E-commerceplatformsandmoderninformationprocessinghavebeenfullyutilizedinalldirections.Themosttypicalexampleisthatthepopularizationofcomputershascompletelyeliminatedthecenturies-oldverticalreelingmachine,whichhasgreatlyimprovedtheautomaticreelingofthesilkindustry.Thelevelofsilk.Theuseofcomputermonitoringandauxiliarymeanscanfullyrealizethesmall-batch,multi-varietybusinessmodel.Mechatronicshasbecomethemainfeatureofthedevelopmentofinternationaltextilemachinery.AlmostalljacquardmachinesandlargecircularknittingmachineshavebeeninstalledwithelectronicjacquardInstallation.

Thereliabilityofsilkproductionequipmentisthecruxofthegapbetweendomesticequipmentandtheadvancedlevelofforeigncountries.Domesticsalesofdomestictextileequipmentisonlyabout10,000units.However,accordingtoconservativeestimates,China’stextileindustrytextileseveryyear.Thedemandforequipmentisashighas20,000to30,000units.

Inthefieldofrawmaterialapplication,Chinesescientificresearchhasmaderemarkableachievements,suchasdecipheringthemysteryofthesilkwormgenome,successfullycultivatingnaturalcolorcocoons;overcomingthedifficultiesofautomaticsilkreelingandvacuuminfiltrationcocooncookingtechnology;fullymasteredTheultra-microstructureofsilkfiber;thein-depthstudyonthetensilepropertiesofthesilkwormsilkformedbyforcedtractionandtheresults;theextractionofsericinandsilkfibroinfromtheby-productsofsilkproductionhasbeenpromotedandapplied;thesuccessfuldevelopmentofthesilk/mulberryelasticsilkandbulkNewfull-silkdifferentiatedtextilematerialssuchasstretchsilk;electronicspinningmethodtopreparesilkfibroinfunctionalnanofibers;newenvironmentally-friendlydyeingmaterials,auxiliariesandsupportingprocessesforsilkhavecomeoutoneafteranother.

Mezistruktura tkaniny,fázových výsledků bylo dosaženo při řešení problémů s hedvábím, jako je protivrásková, protisrážlivá a proti vyblednutí, a byly aplikovány na těžké hedvábí, pravý hedvábný oregan, umělé hedvábí, hedvábí z chemických vláken, počítačové vyšívání, výšivky na výrobku.

Thecompositeofsilktextiletechnologyhasalsomadecontinuousprogress,whichmainlyreflects:thecompositetechnologyandprocessingtechnologyofchemicalfibers;theblendingandcompositeofnaturalfibers;thecompositeofnaturalfibersandchemicalfibers;multiplefunctionalfinishingThecomposite;thecompositeofavarietyoffabrics,suchasdouble-layerpastecomposite,inlaycompositecomposite,sandwichcomposite,etc.

TheadvantagesandgapsofChina'ssilkindustrycoexist.Chinesesilkexportcompaniescompeteforinternationalmarketsharemainlythroughvolumegrowth,whichhasexacerbatedthepricechaosinthedomesticsilkmarkettoacertainextent.Asexportpriceshavebeendecliningyearafteryear,theexportpricesofsilkandsilksandsatinarenowonly50-60%ofwhattheyweretenyearsago.Infact,China'ssilkandsilkexportshavelongbeentrappedinaviciouscircleofrisingpricesandfallingprices.AlthoughChina'ssilkindustryhasverygoodfavorableconditionsfortheproductionandsupplyofrawmaterials,therehasneverbeenabrandwithahighreputationandaconsiderablemarketshareintheworld.TheinternationalobjectiveevaluationofChinesesilkisstillstuckinChina.OnlyafterfinishinginItalyorfinishinginFrancecanitbelistedinhigh-endfashionapparel.

Forthisreason,since2002,theChinaNationalSilkAssociationbegantopayattentiontotheapprovalandregistrationofhigh-endsilkmarks.Onthisbasis,in2004,thedomesticsilkindustrylistedfivebrandsofall-silksilkproductsasChina'sfamousbrands,andgrantedthefirstbatchof17enterprisestherighttousehigh-endsilklogos.Theimplementationandpromotionofthehigh-endsilklogoindicatesthattheproductsofChinesesilkenterprisesareenteringanewperiodofsublimationfromcheaplow-gradeproductstohigh-endindustrialchainfields.

In2010,thenationalmulberryorchardareareached12.03millionmu,theoutputofsilkwormcocoonswas649,000tons,andtheoutputofrawsilkwas162,000tons,anincreaseof3.7%,5.4%and30.4%respectivelyover2005.Duringthe"TwelfthFive-YearPlan"period,China'saverageannualsilkwormcocoonoutputhasstabilizedatabout650,000tons,thetotaloutputofsilkandsilkflossproductshasreachedmorethan120,000tons,theeconomicincomeofsericulturehasexceeded20billionyuan,andthetotaloutputvalueofthesilkindustryhasreachedmorethan200billionyuan.Theexportofrealsilkproductsremainedabove3.5billionU.S.dollars.By2015,energyconsumptionperunitvalueaddedinthefieldsofcocoondryingandsilkprintinganddyeingwillbereducedbymorethan20%comparedtotheendofthe"EleventhFive-YearPlan"period,andwaterconsumptionperunitvalueaddedinthesilkindustrywillbereducedbymorethan30%.Thecomprehensiveutilizationrateofwasteisincreasedtomorethan80%.

Mezinárodní rozvoj

1.Úprava průmyslového nastavenízměnatypu výroby hedvábí

1. Přenos gradientu výroby kokonového hedvábí

Z hlediska celkového objemu se Čína, Indie, Brazílie, Vietnam, Thajsko a další rozvojové země rozvíjely rychle, zatímco vyspělé země, jako je Itálie, Francie, Japonsko a Jižní Korea, zaznamenaly prudký pokles.

2.Produkce hedvábí má tendenci být vícepolarizována

Thereare65countriesandregionsintheworldwithsilkproduction,ofwhichtherearenearly40ofacertainscale,occupyingtheworld’ssilkproductionThereareaboutl0ofcertainstatus.Astheworld'slargestsilkindustryinChina,theannualoutputofsilkwormcocoonsreached440,000tons.Thehighestyearreached700,000tons,accountingforabout70%oftheworld'stotaloutput.TheproductionofcocoonandsilkinIndiahasdevelopedrapidlyandhasreplacedJapanasthesecondlargestsilkproducerintheworld.Thailand,Vietnam,Brazil,Malaysiaandothercountriesalsoattachgreatimportancetoinvestmentinthesericultureindustryandhaveadoptedaseriesofmeasurestopromotethedevelopmentoftheirownsericultureindustry.

Second,technologicalinnovationguidesthetrendofsilkconsumption

1.Intenzifikace výrobní technologie

JapaneseresearchershavedevelopedsterilesilkproductiontechnologyanddevelopedtofuThelow-costartificialfeedwithslagasthemainingredientbreakstheseasonalproductionpatternofsericultureforthousandsofyears,andthecocoonsproducedhavetheadvantagesofgoodwhiteness,highsilkyield,anddirectsilkreeling.Atthesametime,countriesaroundtheworlduseadvancedtechnologytoproduce"clonedsilkworms",aswellasgenetransplantationtechnologies,newproteinmaterials,andartificialjet-spunsilkworms,whichwillsurelyreplacetraditionalcocoonproductionmethods.

Intermsofindustrialproduction,developedcountriessuchasJapan,Germany,Italy,andSouthKoreahaveusedtheircomprehensivetechnologicaladvantagestocontinuouslyinnovateinthedeepprocessingtechnologyofsilkproductsandareinaleadingpositionintheinternationalmarket.TheUnitedStates,Switzerland,Spain,etc.havestrongstrengthinthedevelopmentoffilamentfiberrawmaterialsandsilktechnologyandequipment,leadingthedevelopmenttrendofnewsilktechnologyinthe21stcentury.Inadditiontoretainingsometraditionalcraftsmanshipinmanycountries,productioncraftscontinuetoevolveinatechnology-intensivedirection,towardautomation,high-speed,andelectronicdevelopment.

2.Diverzifikace výrobků z hedvábí

Thedevelopmenttrendofnewinternationalsilktechnologyistogohandinhandinthefieldsofclothingindustry,decoration,military,cosmetics,medicalandotherfields.Japan,Italy,theUnitedStatesandotheradvancedsilkproducingcountrieshavemademajorbreakthroughsinthecomprehensiveutilizationofsilk.Forexample,theapplicationanddevelopmentofextremelyfineandextra-thicknesssilkwormspecies,silkisinaleadingpositioninthefieldsoffood,cosmetics,medicineandsoon.Japanalsousessilkwormcocoonsandsilktodevelopcardecorationmaterials,contactlenses,andartificialskin.Atthesametime,realsilk,rayon,andsyntheticfibersarediversified,andvariousrawmaterialsareblendedandcovered,makingthetypesoffibersmorediverse.

3.Možnost nošení v módě

Silkproductsarecloselyrelatedtofashiontrendsintermsoffabrics,textures,patternsandstyles.Thenewlydevelopedelasticfiber,TenceIfiber,realsilkinvisibleprinting,silkartworkandsooninthesilkscienceandtechnologyindustryallrepresentthefashion,fashionandenvironmentalprotectiontrendsofthesilkindustry.Forexample,knitwearblendedwithsilkandcashmerehasmadeabigsplashintheinternationalmarket.TheblendedsilkandcashmerehasgreatlyimprovedthefunctionofknittedfashionandhasbecomeanewfavoriteoffashionfavoredbycustomersinWesternEuropeandNorthAmerica.Majorbreakthroughshavebeenmadeinthetechnicalresearchanddevelopmentofnewfunctionalsilkfabrics,whichconformtothedevelopmenttrendofdiversification,compositeandfashionablesilkproductsintheinternationalmarket,andpromotetheupgradingofsilkproducts.

3. Stiskněte trh, abyste zintenzivnili konkurenci v prodeji hedvábí

Withtheincreaseoftheworld’spopulation,theadjustmentofthesilkindustrystructureandtechnologicalinnovation,aswellasthedeepeningofpeople’sunderstandingofnaturalsilkproducts,Silkconsumptionwillcontinuetogrowsteadily.However,withtheintegrationoftheglobaleconomyandChina'saccessiontotheWTO,competitioninthesilkmarketwillbecomeincreasinglyfierce.

1. Silktradebarriers omezují férovou soutěž

Fromtheperspectiveoftheentiretextileindustry,silkexportshaverelativelyfewtradebarriersandtheexportenvironmentisrelativelyloose,buttheyhavealsobeensubjecttoquotas,tariffs,etc.Restrictionsontradebarriers.Atthesametime,duetotheimpactoftextiletradebarriers,theexportofcross-productsinterwovenwithtextilematerialssuchasrealsilk,cottonandlinenhasbeengreatlyrestricted.TheEuropeanUnionandtheUnitedStatesarethemainsalesmarketsforChinesesilk.Inordertoresistalargeamountoflow-pricedChinesesilkandsilkapparelimportsandavoidanimpactonthesilkcirculationindustry,theEUandtheUnitedStatesbegantoimposequotarestrictionsonChinesesilkandapparelimportsin1994.Since1998,althoughEuropeandtheUnitedStateshavecancelledsomequotasforChinesesilkproducts,certainrestrictionsarestillimposed.Inordertoprotectitsowninterests,JapanhasimposedthemostrestrictionsontheimportofChinesesilkproducts.Withthepopularityofsilk-linen,silk-cottonandotherblendedfabricapparelintheinternationalmarket,theimpactoftextilequotarestrictionsontheexpansionofsilkapparelproductsandmarketspacehasbecomemoreandmoreobvious.

2. Země se protlačily do mezinárodního trhu s hedvábím

Silkconsumptionspreadsallovertheworld.ChinaandBrazilarethemainexportsuppliersofcocoonsandrawsilkintheworldsilkmarket.China,Japan,SouthKorea,India,Thailandisthemainexportsupplierofsilkfabricsintheworld,whileChina,JapanandSouthKoreaarealsothemainexportsuppliersofsilkapparelintheworldsilkmarket.ThereisalmostnosericultureindustryinFrance,Italy,Germany,Switzerland,andHongKong,China.Theymainlyimportrawsilkandsilkandotherrawmaterialsafterdeepprocessingfordomesticandforeignconsumption.TheUnitedStates,Australia,NewZealand,SaudiArabiaandsomeNorthAmericancountriesdirectlyimportsilkproductsfordomesticconsumption.Withtherecoveryandgrowthoftheworldeconomy,countrieshaveaimedattheglobalsilkmarketandstrivedtoexpandtheirsilkproductexports.TheriseanddevelopmentofsilkproducingcountriessuchasIndiaandVietnamwillfurthersqueezetheinternationalmarketshare.SouthKorea,Italy,GermanyandothercountriesusetheirtechnologicaladvantagestoimportcocoonsilkrawmaterialsfromChina,Japan,andBrazil,andthenexportthemtodevelopedcountriessuchastheUnitedStatesafterprocessing.TheyhavebecomeChina'sstrongestcompetitorsinsilkgarmentexports.

Industryprospects

China'ssilkindustryisdevelopingrapidly,andsilkproductionranksfirstintheworld.Amongthem,cocoonsilkandsilksatincandominateinternationalmarketproductionandpricetrends.TheindustriesaremainlydistributedinJiangsu,Zhejiang,Guangdong,Guangdong,Shandong,Anhui,andSichuan.Thesynergybetweenindustriesindifferentregionsneedstobeimproved.Duringthe"EleventhFive-YearPlan"period,boththeoutputvalueandsalesscaleofChina'ssilkindustryhaveachievedsubstantialgrowth.Byacceleratingstructuraladjustmentandindustrialupgrading,stabilizingthetraditionalexportmarket,andactivelyopeningupthedomesticmarket,theconnectionbetweenproductionandsaleshascontinuedtoimprove,thequalityandefficiencyoftheindustry'soperationhaveimprovedsignificantly,thedevelopmenthasbeenstable,andthemomentumhasbeengood.

Thedemandforhealthy,functionalandpersonalizedsilkproductscontinuestoincrease.Itcanbeseenthattheinherentadvantagesofsilkfibersaregraduallybeingre-recognizedbymodernpeople.Thedomesticsilkmarketwithapopulationof1.3billionhashugepotentialfordevelopment.

AlthoughChina’ssilktradeaccountedfor80%oftheworld’stotal,theproportionofexportsdroppedfrom3.4%in1985to0.19%in2011.ThisshowsthatChinaisabigsilkcountrybutnotnecessarilyasilkpower..Chinaistheworld'slargestsilkproducerandexporter.China'srawsilkproductionaccountsformorethan70%oftheworld'stotalproduction,anditsexportvolumeaccountsformorethan80%oftheworld'stotaltrade.Increasingthetechnologicalcontentofsilkproducts,developingnewsilkproducts,andsatisfyingtheconsumerdemandofemergingconsumersisaninevitabletrendforthegrowthofinternationalsilkconsumptioninthefuture.

Modus rozvoje čínského kokonu a hedvábného průmyslu je dobrý. V roce 2010 dosáhla celostátní plocha moruše nebo chrastavce 12,031 milionů milionů milionů, produkce kokonů bource morušového byla 649 000 tun a produkce 3% křenového hedvábí byla 152 % a 7 %. výhledově za rok 2005.

Silkculture

Overview

SilkisasymbolofancientChinesecultureandhasmadeanindeliblecontributiontothedevelopmentofhumancivilizationintheworld.Chinesesilkisfamousallovertheworldforitsexcellentquality,exquisitepatternsandrichculturalconnotations.Thousandsofyearsago,silkpassedfromChang'antoEuropealongtheSilkRoad.Itbroughtnotonlypiecesofgorgeousclothingandaccessories,butalsotheancientandsplendidcivilizationoftheEast.Sincethen,silkhasalmostbecomeThecommunicatorandsymbolofEasterncivilization.

Fourfamousembroidery

Threefamousbrocades

Císařský oděv

Čína je zemí etikety a starodávného oblečení. Vývoj čínského hedvábí je v určitém rozsahu také v amikrokosmu systému Huanghuangetikety. a je materializovaným vyjádřením feudálního patriarchálního systému.

Thecostumeswornbyancientemperorshavespecialmarkings,andaformalcostumesystemisneededtoprovideforthem,andtheymustbestrictlyenforced.Fromtheshapeandcoloroftheclothestothelengthofthesilkthreadandthematerial,theyareallrelatedtoetiquette.Therefore,imperialcostumesaretheyardstickandcornerstoneoftheentirecostumesystem.

"Standard"specialemperorcostumesappearedintheWesternZhouDynasty.Atthattime,therulershadstrictregulationsontheclothingwornbyallkindsofpeople,andtheywereincludedinthecategoryof"ZhouLi".Hierarchyisveryobvious,andarroganceisnotallowed.Thedevelopedtextile,printinganddyeingproductiontechnologyatthattimeprovidedasolidmaterialfoundationfortheZhouDynastytoestablishaperfectclothingsystem.InordertoconsolidatetheWesternZhouregime,ZhouGongdan,whoassistedtheking,formulatedacompletesteppedpatriarchalhierarchicalsystemtoclearlyindicatethattheupperandlowergarmentsoftheofficialposition,thepublicservantsgoingout,andthedescendantsofYanjuweredifferent.Theform,texture,color,pattern,andornamentsofthecrownwerespecifiedindetailandbecameanimportantcontentoftheruleofritualintheZhouDynasty.

"TheBookofChanges" obsahuje:"TianXuan(nebeská modrá)andgroundžlutá(zeměbarva)."ZhouTianzi nosí tajemné oblečení,když se obětuje nebi.Černá odkazuje na černou s červenými a žlutými barvami.,XuanYiiječerná Terry:slunce,měsíc,hvězda,hora,draka a čínský hmyz.Podobá se modernímu ručně malovanému oblečení.Maluje se přímo na plátno malířem perem, inkoust a pigment;Existuje šest kapitol včetně, fenmi, 黼, 黻, celkem dvanáct kapitol vzorů a vzorů.

Beforetheweek,thecostumesoftheemperorswereembroideredwiththeabove-mentionedtwelvechapterpatterns.IntheZhouDynasty,becauseofthepatternsofthesun,moon,andstarsonthebanners,thecostumeswerenolongerrepeatedandchangedtotwelvechapters.Forninechapters.Theorderofornamentationisheadedbydragon,dragon,mountain,flower,insect,fire,andZongyiarehand-painted;algae,ricenoodles,millet,andmilletareallrustedup.Thesubsequentdynastiesbasicallycontinuedthetraditionalpatternofthetwelvechapters.ThetwelvechaptersgraduallybecamethespecialdecorationsoftheemperorsofthepastdynastiesinChina.ItwasasymbolofancientChineseroyalpower.ThedragonandphoenixinChapterTwelvearegraduallydedicatedtotheemperor.Thedragonbecomesthesymboloftheemperor,andthephoenixis​​therepresentativeofthesupremewoman.

Officials'supplementaryclothing

AmongtheancientChineseclothingsystems,thebestreflectionofthecloserelationshipbetweensilkandthefeudalhierarchyisthesupplementaryclothingofthecivilandmilitaryofficials.Mendingclothingisakindofofficialclothesdecoratedwiththeemblemofgrade,orcalledmendinggown,whichisdifferentfromotherofficialclothes.Themaindifferenceisthatthefrontandbackofhiscostumeareeachembossedwithatonicofthesameform,contentandmeaning.Therefore,aslongasyoulookatthepatternonthetonic,youcanknowtherankandtasteoftheperson,whichisabitsimilartotherankoftoday'smilitaryofficer.

TheoriginoftoniccanbetracedbacktotheTangDynasty,anditsoriginseemstoberelatedtoWuZetian'suseofrobepatternstodeterminegrades."TaiPingYuLan"vol.692quotes"TangShu":"TheEmpressWucameoutwithascarletpurplesingleLuoMinglapelbackrobetobestowcivilandmilitaryministers,andtheirrobesaredifferent....Theprimeministerdecoratedthewindpond,andtheShangShudecoratedForthewildgoose,theleftandrightguardsaredecoratedwithaunicorn,andtheleftandrightguardsaredecoratedwithapairoftigers."

TheYuanDynastystonecarvingsunearthedfromtheYangqunTempleinInnerMongoliahaveflower-patternedtonics.Atthesametime,theyarefoundinsomeYuanDynastytombs.Indeed,manyYuandynastyfabricsintheformofsquarepadswerediscovered.However,thesecostumesdidnotappearassupplementaryclothes,andtheseFangsupplementsweremostlyflower-shaped,andtheywerenotusedasasymbolofofficialrankatthetime.

ThereplenishmentservicethattrulyrepresentstheofficialpositionwasfinalizedintheMingDynasty.Accordingtotherecordsof"MingHistory·YufuZhi",inthetwenty-fourthyearofHongwu(1391),theofficialuniformwasalargerobewithacollar,asquarepatchonthechestandback,andthecivilofficialembroideredabirdtoshowcivilization.Themilitaryattacheembroideredthebeasttodemonstratethemartialarts.

JudgingfromtheofficialsupplementsunearthedandhandeddownintheMingDynasty,therearethreemethodsofmakingbrocade,embroideryandtapestry.Earlyofficialsupplementswererelativelylargeandwell-made.Civilservantsuseddoublebirdstoaccompanythem,whilemilitaryofficersusedsinglebeasts,eitherstandingorsquatting.IntheQingDynasty,onlyasinglestandingpoultrywasusedasatonicforcivilofficials,andthegradeswereslightlydifferent.

ValueSignificance

Chinaisthehometownofsilk.SilkisoneoftheimportantcharacteristicsofChinesecivilization.IthasalottodowithChina’setiquettesystem,cultureandart,customs,andscienceandtechnology.Link.Theemperorusedsilktodemonstratehisauthority,andhundredsofofficialsusedsilktomarktheirranks;literatiwrotepoemspraisingsilk,andpainterssplashedinkonsilkmadeofsilk;ordinarypeopleworshipedvarioussilkwormgodsandprayedforarichsilk,whilethecourtdidGiveaclasstopersuadethesericulture,andusethistoevaluatetheperformanceofthelocalofficials.Twoofthefourgreatinventionsaredirectlyrelatedtosilk.Theoriginalmeaningof"paper"istheaccumulationofvelvetsilkintheprocessofmakingsilkfloss.Theinventionofprintingisdirectlyrelatedtoletterpressprintingonsilk.TheprintedsilkfabricsunearthedfromtheHantombofMawangduihavebeenoverprintedinlargeareasandarenearlyathousandyearsearlierthantheofficialTangDynastyengravingprints.Therefore,itcanbesaidthatthereliefprintingonsilkistheoriginatorofengravingprinting.Inaddition,thedevelopmentoftheMaritimeSilkRoaddirectlypromotedthepracticeandimprovementofthecompass.

Silkisnotonlyasimpleandexpensiverawmaterialforclothing,ithasalsoplayedanimportantcurrencyfunctionforalongtimeinhistory.ForChina,“silk”isnotonlyacommodity,butthecurrencyitself.Itcanbeusednotonlytopaythesoldiers'salaries,butalsotopayforthepurchaseofhorsesandothercommodities.Chinausessilktobuyanimalproductsfromgrasslandtribes,andgrasslandpeoplesellthesesilkswestwardalongtheSilkRoad.Itwasinthisprocessthatsilkrealizedthetransformationfromcurrencytocommodity.ItalsoexplainedwhyRomanandByzantinegoldcoinswereoftenfoundattheeasternendofthe"SilkRoad",whileChinesecoppercoinswererarelyunearthedintheWest.SilkItisthecurrencyoftheSilkRoad.

1.Podpora rozvoje textilního průmyslu

Thelocalsilkculturereactedtothelocaltextileindustry,makingitcarryoutaseriesofinnovationsandreformsontheoriginalbasis,thusImprovedlaborproductivity,creatednewfabrictypes,andfurtherenrichedsilkculture.

ThecontributionofChinesesilktotheworldfirstliesinthespreadofChinesesilktechnologyalongwiththespreadofsilk.ChinesesilktechnologywasfirstintroducedtoCentralAsia.Thereisastoryinthe"StoryoftheWesternRegionsoftheTangDynasty"abouttheprincessChuansiwhointroducedsilkwormeggstothekingdomofQuSatan.ThespreadofsilkwormeggsfromCentralAsiatoEuropetookplaceduringthereignofJustinian.APersianmonkhidthesilkwormeggsinawalkingstickandbroughtthemtoRome.Thus,theChinesesilkwormsilktechnologyspreadtoEurope.

Inadditiontosericulturetechnology,silkreelingandsilkjacquardtechnologyhavealsohadasignificantimpactonWesterntextiletechnology.Inhis"HistoryofScienceandTechnologyinChina",NeedhamlistedthescientificandtechnologicalachievementsthatChinahascontributedtotheworldstartingwith26Englishletters,including:F-jacquardandhorizontalloom;G-silkreelingmachine,spinningmachineSilkmachineandsilkmachine.BecauseEuropehasabsorbedthesetechnologies,itsowntextiletechnologyhasbeengreatlyimproved,whichhasledtomanymechanicalinnovations.ItisonthisbasisthatthetextileindustrialrevolutioninmodernEuropeispossible.Theprincipleofsilkjacquard,thatis,theprocessofstoringinformationandtransformingitintoajacquardprogramthroughthecoordinationofheddlesandtreadrods,orbycompilingpatterns,containsprofoundmathematicalideas.AfterbeingintroducedtoEurope,itnotonlyhadagreatinfluenceonthedevelopmentofEuropeansilkweavingtechnology,butalsohadagreatinfluenceonthedevelopmentofmoderntelegraphcommunicationtechnologyandevencomputerprinciples.

Foreignsilkculturehasanevengreaterimpactonthedevelopmentandinnovationofthelocaltextileindustry.AfterChinesesilkenteredEuropeancountries,themonarchsofvariouscountriesestablishedanddevelopedtheirownsilkweavingindustries.Inthisprocess,thespreadofsilkcultureisnotasimplecopy,butcontinuousimprovementandcontinuousfullness.Forexample,WesternEuropeansilkweaverscombinedtheirrichimaginationandfeelingsofcolorintothecreativityoftheancestorsoftheChinesenation,makingtextiletechnologyincreasinglysophisticatedandscientific,andbecomingtheforerunnerofmodernindustry.Itispreciselybecauseofthisextremelycreativecombinationthatgreatlyenrichedandpromotedthedevelopmentoftextiletechnology.Aftertheformationofforeignsilkculture,itwasfedbacktoChina,whichplayedanimportantroleinpromotingthedevelopmentandprogressofChina'stextileindustry,especiallythemodernmachinetextiletechnology,whichhadahugeimpactonthedevelopmentofChina'stextileindustry.

2. Podpora rozvoje čínského jazyka a literatury

Hedvábná kultura hrála velkou roli při generování a vývoji čínských postav, což se odráží v čínských postavách jako související s moruší, bource morušového a hedvábí.纟"část, 248 znaků, což představuje asi 3 % z celkového počtu pečetních skriptů. V čínštině je k těmto znakům skutečně velký počet slov, jako jsou: bourec morušový, moruše, sangzi, bourec morušový, bourec morušový, předení, hedvábí, malování na hedvábí, nefritové hedvábí, hedvábí bohatství atd. Většina těchto slov úzce souvisí s výrobou hedvábného průmyslu.

Kromě toho existuje mnoho idiomů a iluzí souvisejících s hedvábnou kulturou, jako je zakuklení sebe sama, triky, triky, noční procházky a návrat domů.

3.Podpora derivace z lidové kultury

Silkcultureisrichinfolkcustoms.TheChineseworshipofthesilkwormgodhasahistoryofthousandsofyears.Mythsandlegendsareendless,andtherearemanysilkwormgods,andtherearenofewerthan10authenticsilkwormgodseverywhere.Numerousballads,proverbs,dialectsandidiomsaboutsilkculturearetheactivationofhistoryandaccumulatestrongfolkcustoms.Manycustoms,socialcustomsandlifeetiquettecustomsarerelatedtosilkculture.

4. Podpora rozvoje uměleckých řemesel

Silkculturehaspenetratedintoallaspectsofculturallife,whichhasagreatimpactonpeople’saesthetictaste,andfurtheraffectsotherarts,evenPromotetheemergenceofsomenewartcategories.Thestyleofsilkpatternsinthepre-QinDynastywassimple,generous,andvaried.Thesepatternsinteractedwiththepatternsofpottery,metalware,andlacquerwareofthesamegeneration,andwerecompatiblewiththelevelofweavingtechnologyatthattime.ThepaintedlacquerwareoftheEasternZhouDynastycanbeseeninrichsecondaryandcomplexcolors,whichechoesthecolorcharacteristicsofsilkfabricsatthattime.Theoriginofthe"twelvechapterpattern"iscloselyrelatedtosilkhand-paintingandembroidery.The"twelve-chapterpattern"laterevolvedintoaspecialpatternontheemperor'sdragonrobeandbecameanimportantpartoftheancientcostumeculture.

TheinventionofChinesepaintingandcalligraphyricepaperisdirectlyrelatedtotheancientsilk"silk"and"silkcloth".Infact,theinventionofpaperisstillinfluencedbysilk.Theoriginalintentionofpaperisthatsilkisintheprocessofrinsing.Thedepositedsilkscrapsaredepositedintoathinlayercalledpaper.Inspiredbythis,peopleusefiberinsteadofsilkfibertomakepaper,whichhasbecomeamajorinventioninChina.Anothermajorinventionofprintingalsooriginatedinthesilkindustry.IthasbeenverifiedthatletterpressprintingonancientChinesesilkisthepredecessorofblockprinting.Intraditionalprintingprocesses,manypartsaredirectlyderivedfromprintingtechnology.Theinventionofpaperandprintinggreatlypromotedthedevelopmentofmanyartssuchascalligraphyandpainting.

5. Podpora výměny světových kultur

Silk,asoneofthegreatinventionsofancientChina,hascontributedalottoworldcivilizationthroughtheancientSilkRoad.Atthesametime,foreigncultureshavealsoadoptedTheentryoftheSilkRoadintoChinahasmadethelocalculturemorecolorful.JapanhasrepeatedlyacceptedChineseimmigrantstoliveinthecountryorsentenvoystoChinatolearnsilkweavingtechnology.AfterChineseimmigrants,largenumbersofJapanesestudentsandscholarlymonksaccompaniedthemissiontoJapan,theyplayedanimportantroleinJapan'spolitical,economic,andculturalreformanddevelopment.EspeciallyintheSuiandTangdynasties,thecultureoftheSuiandTangdynastieshadastrongimpactonJapanesesocietyandculture.InJapan,anunprecedented"ImitatedTangCulture"hasbeenformed,andithaslastedformorethan200years.AfterenteringChinaasafeedback,Japaneseculturehasbroadenedpeople’sspiritualhorizons.Manycultureshavealsobecomethethemesofpoetryandsongs.Somesilksarepatternedwithexoticgodsprayingforauspiciousnessorlegends,whichhavebeenabsorbedbyChinesecraftsmenandenrichedtheChinesepeople.Culturalinterest.Inaddition,asa"peacemessenger"ofvariouscountries,silkhasplayedakeyroleinthediplomacyofvariouscountries.Countriesusesilktradeormutualdonationofsilkfabricsasabreakthroughpointtostrengthentiesbetweencountries,maintainpeaceandstabilityininternationalrelations,andprovidegoodconditionsandanenvironmentfortheprogressanddevelopmentofworldcivilization.

OnJune22,2014,China,KazakhstanandKyrgyzstanjointlydeclaredtheeasternpartofthelandSilkRoad"SilkRoad:RoadNetworkofChang'an-TianshanCorridor"successfullydeclaredasaworldcultureHeritagebecamethefirstsuccessfulapplicationforheritagethroughcross-bordercooperation.

Klasifikace hedvábí

Čtrnáct kategorií

Hedvábí jsou rozděleny do 14 kategorií podle struktury látky, kombinace osnovy a útku, technologie zpracování a tvaru povrchu hedvábí. .Každý typ hedvábného povrchu může mít vlastnosti hladké (školení, bělení, barvení) nebo květu (tkaní, tisk).

Třicet pět podkategorií

Převážně rozdělené podle výkonu hedvábného povrchu:

1,doubleCrepe:Plainweaveisused,withnowarptwist,twoleftandtworightstrongtwistedsilksareusedfortheweft,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithauniformcrepeeffect.

2.QiaoQi:Theplainweaveisused,andthewarpandweftusetwoleftandtworightstrongtwistedsilks.Thetextureisthinandlight,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithgauzeandcrepeeffect.

3.Bi-krep,nekroucená osnova,Bi-krepová nit (20/22Dx3plusStwist1600T/m,potom20/22D1,plusZtwist1600T/m),jejemnéahustévráskyOffabric.

4.Shun纡:nekroucený,útekpoužijtejednosměrnésilnézkroucení,hedvábný povrch je rovná vrásčitá tkanina.

5.TAFF:Použijte hladkou vazbu, barvení nejprve válečkem a útkem, jemnou a ostrou texturu vařené látky.

6. Powerspinning: morušové hedvábí (tussahhedvábí) surová tkanina, hladká tkanina.

7.Tenké předení: pomocí morušového hedvábného plátna, plátnové tkaniny o čtvercovém metru hmotnosti hedvábí 6 m/mandní.

8.Spunsilkspinning:textilie s plátnovou vazbou vyrobené z předené hedvábí jak osnova, tak útek.

9. Bavlněné hedvábí: Warpandweft je vyroben z hladké tkaniny obalené hedvábím.

10.DoublePalace:Všechnynebočástdvapalácovéhedvábné tkaniny.

11. Uzly: Všechny nebo část suků, hedvábí, tkaniny s vrásčitým efektem.

12. Hvězdicový vzor: látka s krepovou vazbou.

13. Žebrování: Látka s lehkomyslným vodorovným pruhem na jedné nebo na obou stranách.

14. Květinová nit: Celá nebo část látky je vyrobena z barevné kroucené nitě nebo barevné nitě.

15. Proužek: Látka s vodorovným a svislým pruhovaným vzorem na hedvábném povrchu.

16. Mřížka: Látka s mřížkovým vzorem na hedvábném povrchu.

17.Toocool:Použijte falešnou barvu k vytvoření průhledné látky s gázovýma očima.

18. Barvená příze: Všechny nebo část barvených hedvábných tkanin.

19.Oboustranné:aplikuje se trojitá vazba a přední a zadní strana má stejný typ vůlí v tkané látce.

20.Konkávní-konvexní:látka s konkávními-konvexními vzory.

21,ve tvaru hory;použití tkaniny ve tvaru hory nebo cik-cak, se zřetelnou tkaninou ve tvaru hory nebo cik-cak.

22. Květ: Žakárová tkanina.

23. Ořez: Ořezaná žakárová tkanina.

24.Lesklé:čistokrevná hedvábná tkanina s lesklou viskózovousilkorpololesklá měděná hedvábí.

25.Mat:čistá tkanina z matné viskózy nebo matné mědi amoniahedvábí.

26.Theglitterisafabricthatispurelywovenorinterwovenwithluminoussuper-glossprofiledcross-sectionsyntheticfilaments,showingashiningeffect.

27. Jasné světlo: Je to látka, která je čistě tkaná nebo protkaná zlatými a stříbrnými mincemi (hliníková kůže), se světlým efektem.

28. Surový: nerafinovaná látka tkaná surovým hedvábím.

29.Speciální barvení:válečné nitě jsou látky s efektem dvoubarevného a kravatového vzoru za použití speciálních barvířských technik, jako je barvení.

30. Vlnový potisk: tkaniny tkané po hedvábném tisku.

31、拉绒：经过拉绒整理的织品。

32、立绒：经过立绒整理的织品。

33、和服：门幅在40厘米以下，或整幅中织有各40厘米以下的开剪缝，供加工和服专用品。

34、大条：经纬采用柞大条丝的平纹织品。

35、缂丝：通过通经断（回）纬的方式制造的平纹或其他组织的特种丝织品。