Rawmaterialcharacteristics
Naturalfiber
Thenaturalfibercontainedinsilkismainlysilkfiber,whichisacontinuouscoagulationofthesilkliquidsecretedbythecocoonwhenthecocoonisformed.Longfiber,alsoknownasnaturalsilk,isoneoftheearliestanimalfibersusedbyhumans,includingmulberrysilk,tussahsilk,castorsilk,andcassavasilk.
Silkfiberistheonlynaturalfilamentfiberthathasbeenputintopracticaluse.Itismadefromthecoagulationofsilkwormslime.Silkfibersaredividedintomanytypesduetothedifferentfeedinghabitsofsilkworms.Amongthem,therearemulberrysilkfibersformedbyeatingmulberryleaves,tussahsilkfibersformedbyeatingtussahleaves,andotherwildsilkfibersformedbyeatingcassavaleaves,mulberryleaves,andcastorleaves.Mulberrysilkfiberandtussahsilkfibercanretaintheformoffilamentfiberinthefilamentyarnformedbyclustering,andotherwildsilkfiberscanonlybetransformedintoshortfibersfortextileprocessing.Amongthefilamentyarnsformedbybundlingofmulberrysilkfibersandtussahsilkfibers,thefilamentyarnsofmulberrysilkfibersarethemostimportantandaccountformostofthenaturalfilamentyarns.
Silkstructure
Thesilkwormspitsouttwosilksatthesametime,butaftersolidification,theywillmergetoformacocoonsilk.Thesectionofthecocoonsilkissimilartoglasses.Eachcocoonsilkcontainstwosilkfibersbondedtogetherbysericin,calledsilkfibroin,thatis,non-gluesilkfibers.Ithasacross-sectionalcharacteristicclosetoatriangle,buttheshapeandcross-sectionalareaarenotuniform.
Silkfibroinisalsocalledsilkfibroinfiber,whichisthesilkfiberthatisfinallyused.
Sericinwrapsaroundthesilkfibroinfiber,anditspresencewillhaveanimportantimpactontheuse,processingandproductstyleofthefiber.
Thecontentofsericinoneachcocoonsilkisnotuniform.Thesilkthatisspitouthaslowsericincontent,andthesilkthatisspitoutattheendhasthehighestsericincontent.Silkfiberhasarelativelycompletefibrilstructure,whichcanfullyexpresstheexcellentqualityofnaturalfiber.
Chemicalcomposition
Fibroin(Fibroin;シルクタンパク),alsoknownassilkfibroin.Itisanitrogen-containingpolymercompound,thesinglebaseofitsmacromoleculeisalphaaminoacid.ThegeneralstructuralformulaofαaminoacidisRCH(NH2)COOH.Becauseitsaminogroupislocatedontheαcarbonatomnexttothecarboxylgrouporcarboxylicacid,itiscalledαaminoacid.Accordingtothegeneralstructuralformulaofsilkfibroinmolecules,thesidegroupsconnectedtodifferentpeptidegroupsintheentiremacromolecularchainaredifferent,whichisanimportantfeatureofnaturalproteinfibers.
Thereare18kindsofaminoacidsthatmakeupsilkfibroin.Thecontentofsilkfibroinisabout70%-80%ofsilk,includingglycine(gly),alanine(ala)andserine(ser).Itaccountsformorethan80%ofthetotalcomposition.
Modification
Althoughsilkfibroinhasmanyexcellentperformances,becausesilkfibroinmoleculescontainacertainamountofhydroxyphenolgroupsandotherThestructureiseasytoabsorbultravioletlightanddenature.Underultravioletlightirradiation,theaminoacidcompositionwillbebrokendown,andthewhitenesswillobviouslydecrease.Withtheincreaseofirradiationtime,theyellowingdegreeofsilkfibroinalsoincreases,especiallyinthepresenceofwater.Moreserious.Mechanicalpropertiesandthermalpropertieshavealsobeengreatlyreduced,whichhasagreatimpactonitsperformance,andsilkfibroinisdifficulttodyeandeasytofade.Inordertoimprovedefects,itmustbemodified.Modificationcanbedonebybiologicalgeneticmethods.Toimprovethespeciesofsilkworms,chemicalandphysicalmethodscanalsobeusedtoimprovethem,usuallychemicalmodificationandpolymerblending.
Man-madefibers
Modernindustrialsilksrarelyhave100%puresilkproducts,mainlyacombinationofnaturalfibers,man-madefibers,andcellulose.
Man-madefibersrefertonon-naturalfibersmadebyphysicalandchemicalmethods,whicharedividedintotwotypes:regeneratedfibersandchemicalfibers.Regeneratedfiberismadeofsomenaturalpolymercompoundsortheirderivativesasrawmaterials,whicharedissolvedintotextilesolution,andthenspunintofibrousmaterials;chemicalfiberismadeofpetroleum,naturalgas,coalandagriculturalandsidelineproductsasrawmaterialsSyntheticfibermade.Man-madefibersareaddedtosilkmainlytomakesilkanti-shrinkage,moth-proof,andeasiertopreserve.
Man-madefibershaveahistoryofonly100years.Beforethat,humanshavereliedonnaturalfiberssuchascotton,wool,silk,andlinentobeusedintextilesandclothingandotherproductionfields.Afterthe1950s,varioussyntheticfiberscameoutsuccessively,inlargequantitiesandlowprices,whichgreatlyenrichedthetotaloutputandscopeofuseoftextilefibersandbecamecompetitorsofnaturalfibers.Therawmaterialofsyntheticfiberispetroleum,buttheearth’spetroleumresourceswillbeexhaustedafter30-50years.Withthecontinuousadvancementofsocialeconomyandthechangeofconsumerconsciousness,inordertocopewiththeoilcrisisandadapttotheglobaltrendofenvironmentalprotectionconcepts,thefiberindustryalsoGraduallymoveclosertothedevelopmentanduseofnaturalfibers.Variousnewtypesoffibershavecomeout,suchasnaturalcoloredcotton,bamboofiber,Lyocellfiber,PLAfiber,soybeanproteinfiber,silkwormpupaproteinfiber,etc.,allofwhichhavethecharacteristicsofnaturalfibers,whicharenotonlyexcellentinperformancebutalsoenvironmentallyfriendly.
Silkcharacteristics
Advantages
First:comfortabletowear.Realsilkiscomposedofproteinfibersandhasgoodbiocompatibilitywiththehumanbody.Inadditiontoitssmoothsurface,itsfrictionalstimulationcoefficienttothehumanbodyisthelowestamongallkindsoffibers,only7.4%.
Second:Goodmoistureabsorptionanddesorption.Silkproteinfiberisrichinmanyhydrophilicgroupssuchasaminegroups(-CONH)andaminogroups(-NH2),andbecauseofitsporosity,itiseasyforwatermoleculestodiffuse,soitcanbeintheairItabsorbsoremitsmoistureinthemedium,andmaintainsacertainamountofmoisture.Undernormaltemperature,itcanhelptheskinretainacertainamountofmoisturewithoutmakingtheskintoodry;wearinginsummer,itcanquicklydissipatesweatandheatfromthehumanbody,makingpeoplefeelextremelycool.
Silkhasnotonlygoodheatdissipationperformance,butalsogoodwarmthretention.Itsthermalinsulationbenefitsfromtheporousfiberstructure.Therearemanyveryfinefibersinsilkfibers,andthesefinefibersarecomposedofevenfinerfibers.Therefore,morethan38%oftheseeminglysolidsilkisactuallyhollow.Thereisalargeamountofairinthesegaps,whichpreventsthedissipationofheatandmakesthesilkhavegoodwarmthretention.
Third:Soundabsorption,dustabsorption,flameretardant.Silkfabrichasahighporosity,soithasgoodsoundabsorptionandairabsorption,soinadditiontomakingclothing,itcanalsobeusedforinteriordecoration.Becausesilkhasmoistureabsorption,moisturereleaseproperties,moistureretention,airabsorptionandporosity,itcanalsoadjustindoortemperatureandhumidity,andcanabsorbharmfulgases,dust,andmicroorganisms.Inaddition,realsilkfibershavelowthermaldenaturationandarerelativelyheatresistant.Whenheatedto100℃,onlyabout5-8%embrittlement,whilemostsyntheticfibershaveathermaldeflectionthatis4-5timeslargerthanthatofsilk.Theburningtemperatureofsilkis300-400℃,whichisaflame-retardantfiber,whiletheburningtemperatureofsyntheticfiberis200-260℃,whichisflammableandeasytomelt.Therefore,theuseofsilkfiberasarawmaterialforinteriordecorationcannotonlyplayaroleinsoundabsorption,dustabsorption,andheatpreservation,butalsoplayaflameretardantfunction.
Fourth:UVresistance.Thetryptophanandtyrosineinsilkproteincanabsorbultravioletlight,sosilkhasagoodanti-ultravioletfunction.Ultravioletraysareveryharmfultohumanskin.Ofcourse,aftersilkabsorbsultravioletrays,itundergoeschemicalchanges,sothatsilkfabricsarepronetoyellowingundersunlight.
Fifth:healthcare.Thehealthcarefunctionofsilkfiberisirreplaceable.Itcontains18kindsofaminoacidsnecessaryforthehumanbody,whichisalmostthesameastheaminoacidscontainedinhumanskin,soitisalsocalledthe"secondskin"ofhumanbeings.Wearingsilkclothescannotonlypreventultravioletradiation,preventharmfulgasesfrominvading,andresistharmfulbacteria,butalsoenhancethevitalityofskincellsonthebody,promoteskincellmetabolism,andhaveagoodauxiliarytherapeuticeffectoncertainskindiseases.
Disadvantages
Pronetowrinkles,easytosuck,notstrongenough,andfadequickly.
Silkweavingprocess
Silkreeling
Theoriginalsilkreelingmethodistosoakthecocooninahotpotofsoup,drawthesilkbyhand,andwinditinThesilkbasketbecomestherawmaterialforweavingsilk.Basinsandbasketsaretheoriginalsilkreelingequipment.Onesilkwormcocooncandrawoutabout1,000metersofcocoonsilk,andseveralcocoonsilksarecombinedintorawsilk.
Silkreelingisamajorprocessinthesilk-makingprocess.Accordingtoproductspecifications,severalboiledcocoonsilksaredissociatedandcombinedintorawsilkortussahsilk.Therearemanysilkreelingmethods.Accordingtothedifferenceoftheupsanddownsofthecocoonsduringsilkreeling,theycanbedividedintothreetypes:floatingreeling,semi-sinkingreeling,andsinkingreeling.Theupsanddownsofsilkwormcocoonsaremainlydeterminedbytheamountofwaterabsorbedinthecocooncavityafterthecocoonisboiled.Accordingtothedifferenttypesofsilkreelingmachines,itcanbedividedintotwotypes:verticalreelingandautomaticreeling.Accordingtothedifferentperceptiontypesoftheautomaticsilkreelingmachine,itcanbedividedintotwotypes:fixed-grainperceptionreelingandfixed-fibreperceptionreeling.Theprocessofdrawingcocoonsoutofsilkisgenerallyreferredtoassilkreeling.
Weaving
Afterprocessing,rawsilkisdividedintowarpandweft,andtheyareinterwoventoformasilkfabricaccordingtoacertainorganizationallaw.Thisistheweavingprocess.Theproductionprocessofallkindsofsilkfabricsisnotthesame,andcanberoughlydividedintotwotypes:rawweavingandcookedweaving:rawweaving,thatis,thewarpandweftsilksarefirstmadeintofabricswithoutsmeltinganddyeing,whichiscalledgreensilk,andthenthegreensilkissmeltedanddyed.Intothefinishedproduct.Thisproductionmethodhaslowcostandshortprocess,andisthemainmethodusedinsilkproduction.Cookedweavingmeansthatthewarpandweftyarnsaredyedbeforeweaving,andthefinishedsilkdoesnotneedtobedyedtobecomeafinishedproduct.Thismethodismostlyusedintheproductionofhigh-endsilkfabrics,suchasbrocadeandtaffeta.Beforeweaving,preparatoryworkmustbedone,suchasdippingtosoftensericin,doublingandtwistingofsilkthatcanimproveproductperformance,aswellaswarpingandweftrolling.Atthesametime,becausesilkishighlyhygroscopic,itisnecessarytodoagoodjobofpreventingmoisture.Theautomaticloomsusedinsilkweavingproductionmainlyinclude:waterjetloomsusedtoproducesyntheticfiberfilamentfabricsandrapierloomsusedtoproducemulti-colorweftjacquardfabrics.
Dyeingandfinishing
Dyeingandfinishingreferstotheprocessofchemicaltreatmentoftextilematerials(fibers,yarnsandfabrics),whichisalsocommonlyreferredtoasprintinganddyeinginmoderntimes.Dyeingandfinishing,togetherwithspinning,weavingorknittingproduction,formthewholeprocessoftextileproduction.Thequalityofdyeingandfinishinghasanimportantinfluenceontheusevalueoftextiles.Theprocessmainlyincludestherefining,bleaching,dyeing,printingandfinishingofrawsilkandfabrics.
Refined
Silkiscomposedoftwomonofilaments.Themainbodyissilkandtheouterlayeriswrappedwithsericin.Mostofthepigments,oils,waxesandinorganicsaltsarepresentinsericin.Theseimpuritieshaveagreatinfluenceontheeffectofprintinganddyeing,sotheymustberemovedbeforedyeing.Inlong-termpractice,peoplehavemasteredthecharacteristicsofsericinthatiseasilydissolvedinhotwaterundertheactionofchemicalagentsorenzymes,andtakeadvantageoftheweaknessofsericintoputrawsilkorrawsilkintosoap(orsyntheticdetergent)andThemixedsolutionofsodaash(sodiumcarbonate)isheated,andthesericinisheatedandthenhydrolyzed.Aftersuchrefining,thesericinisremovedandthesilkproteinispreserved,andimpuritiessuchaspigments,fats,andwaxesareremoved,soastoobtainsilkproductswithawhitecolor.Degummingisalsocalledrefining,andtherawsilkafterdegummingiscalledcookedsilk.Thedegreeofrawsilkdegummingmustbedeterminedaccordingtoproductionrequirements.
Bleaching
Thedegummedsilkfibershouldbebleachedtoremovenaturalpigments.Otherwise,whendyeinglightcolors,thecolorofthefinishedproductwillchangeduetothepresenceofnaturalpigments.Silkcanbebleachedbyoxidationorreductionofvariousbleachingagents.Therehavebeenreportsontheprocessofbleachingsilkwithhydrogenperoxideinthepresenceofacatalyst.ThioureadioxideisareductivebleachingagentwithlowBODandCODvalues,soitcanbeusedasalow-pollutionnon-toxicbleachingagent.However,comparedwiththesodiumsulfide,althoughitisheavilypolluted,itisstillusedinlargequantities.However,theapplicationofTDUislimitedduetoitshighprice.
Dyeing
Afterrefiningthewhitesilk,itentersthedyeingstage.Dyeingistheprocessofchemicallyreactingdyeswithsilkwormsandsilk,sothatthesilkcanbedyedwithvariouscolors.Sincesilkisaproteinfiber,itisnotalkali-resistant,sodyeingshouldbecarriedoutinanacidicorclosetoneutraldyeingsolution.Themaindyesusedinsilkfabricsare:aciddyes,reactivedyes,directdyesandvatdyes.Thecolordyedwithaciddyesisbrighter.Afterdyeing,itistreatedwithcationicfixingagenttoimprovethewashingfastnessoftheproduct.Reactivedyeshavegoodwashingfastnessonsilk.Thedyeingmethodofthefabricvarieswiththetypeoffabric.Forexample,crepeandgauzefabricsaredyedwithropeoroverflowjetdyeing,andspinning,silk,andsatinfabricsaredyedwithopenwidthhangingorrolldyeing.
Printing
Acolorismonotonousafterall.Inadditiontodyeing,peoplealsouseprintingtechniquestomakesilkcolorful.Printingreferstoaprocessinwhichdyesareprintedonfabricsinaccordancewiththedesignedcolors.Commonlyusedprintingprocessesincludedirectprinting,dischargeprinting,andanti-dyeing.Directprintingmeansthatthecolorpasteisdirectlyprintedonthesilkfabricthroughthescreenprintingplate.Itisoneofthebasicprintingmethodsandcanbeprintedwithavarietyofdyes.Dischargeprinting,alsoknownasengravingprinting,isaprocessofdischargedyeingusingengravingagent.Beforeprintinganddyeing,thesilkisdyedwithaciddyesandreactivedyeswithazostructure,andthenprintedonthecoloredsilkaccordingtothepattern.Theengraving(discharge)pastemadefromtheengravingagentthatdestroysthepigment,aftersteaming,thegroundcoloroftheengravingpastebecomeswhite,whichiscalled"carvingwhite".
Dye-proofprintingistoprintsilkfabricswith"anti-white"pasteor"color-proof"pasteaccordingtothepattern,andthendyeitafterdrying.Becausethepatternparthastheanti-dyeingagentinthe"anti-white"pasteorthe"color-proof"paste,itwillnotbedyed,whiletherestareallcolored.
Finishing
Afterthesilkfabricisrefined,dyed,andprinted,thefinalfinishingworkcanbecarriedoutonthefabric.Thefinishingprocessmainlysolvestheproblemsofdampness,wrinkles,andunevenwidthleftoverfromthepreviousprocesses,highlightsthesoftnessofthesilkfabricitselfandincreasesitswearingfunction,andmainlyadoptstwomethodsofmechanicalfinishingandchemicalfinishing.Mechanicalfinishingincludestenteringfinishing,steamironing,calendering,etc.;chemicalfinishingismainlytoaddchemicalagents,suchassofteners,antistaticagents,fireretardants,sandlotionscomposedofsodaashandtrisodiumphosphate,etc.Soastoachievetheeffectofanti-wrinkle,anti-shrinkage,softnessandthickness.Thetreatedfabricsarenotonlymoresuitableforwearing,buttheconsumptionfieldofsilkisalsobroadened.
Historicalevolution
Initialdevelopment
Inancientlegends,theHuangdi’swifeLeiZuinvented“raisingsericultureforsilk”,butinrealitywhenwassilk?Theinventionisstillcontroversial.
ExpertsspeculatebasedonarchaeologicalfindingsthatinthemiddleoftheNeolithicperiodfivetosixthousandyearsago,Chinabegantoraisesilkworms,takesilk,andweavesilk.WhatreallyshowsthatthesilkwormcocoonsareusedisthehalfofthesilkwormcocoonsexcavatedinXiyinVillage,XiaCounty,ShanxiProvincein1926.AccordingtotheresearchofarchaeologistLiJiandentomologistLiuZhenle,itisdeterminedtobeasilkwormcocoon.Thecocoonshellisabout1.36cmlongand1.04cmwide.Thepartofthecocooniscutawaywithasharpblade.TheageofXiyinVillagewastheYangshaoperiod(about5600-6000yearsago),whichprovidedpeoplewithphysicalobjectstostudytheoriginofsilk.
FourWengcoffinswerefoundattheWanggousiteinXingyang,HenanProvince,whicharesaidtobeabout5,500yearsold.
PeoplehavediscoveredtextiletoolsintheHemudusite,andfromthisitcanbeinferredthattheuseofsilkisatleastnolaterthantheLiangzhuculture.ThemostinfluentialargumentisthearchaeologicaldiscoveryofChinesescientistsin1958,thesilkfabricsoftheDawenkoucultureperiod5300yearsago.
SilkfabrictechnologyhasbeenmonopolizedbyChinaforhundredsofyears.Becauseitsweavingtechnologywasacomplicatedprocessatthattime,andbecauseofitsuniquehandleandluster,itattractedpeople’sattention.Therefore,silkfabricsbecameanindustrialrevolution.Inthepast,theworld'smaininternationaltradematerials.Theearliestsilkfabricscouldonlybeusedbyemperors,buttherapiddevelopmentofthesilkindustryallowedsilkculturetocontinuouslypenetrateintoChineseculturegeographicallyandsocially.Andithasbecomeanindispensablehigh-enditemintheforeigntradeofChinesebusinessmen.
Atfirst,Chinastrictlycontrolledthespreadofsilkweavingandsericulturetechnology,andprohibiteditsflowtoforeigncountries.However,withtheassistanceofChineseimmigrants,NorthKoreasuccessfullyachievedabreakthroughinsericulturetechnologyintheprevious200years.Inaddition,theWesternRegionHetianRiverBasin(thefirst500years-thefirst300years)andIndia(300yearsago)successfullyrealizedsericulture.However,theRomanEmpireonlyobtainedsilkwormeggsanddevelopedsericulturetechnologyinabout550years.
DuringtheShangandZhouDynasties
DuringtheShangDynasty,agriculturehadagreatdevelopment,andthesericultureindustryalsoformedacertainscale.AlthoughthenumberofShangDynastysilkfabricsdiscoveredbyarchaeologyislimited,jacquardsilkfabricshaveappeared,whichshowsthattheweavingtechnologyatthattimehasreachedaconsiderablelevel.
IntheWesternZhouDynasty,therulershadalreadystrictlyorganizedandmanagedtheindustrialproduction,andthesilkproductiontechnologyhadimprovedcomparedwiththeShangDynasty.
TheSpringandAutumnPeriodandtheWarringStatesPeriodwasaperiodoftransitionfromslaverytofeudalisminChinesehistory.Theproductiveforcesandsocio-economicpatternshaveundergonetremendouschanges.Thesericultureandsilkindustryhasalsoreceivedattention,andthedevelopmentofagriculturalmulberryhasbecomeanimportantnationalpolicyfortheprosperityofthecountryandthepeople.
DuringtheWarringStatesPeriod,farmerswhocombinedagricultureandhandicraftsbecamethebasicproductionunitsofsociety,andhandicraftsbecameanimportantpartoftheagriculturaleconomy.Thespecializeddivisionoflaborinsilkproductionismoreobvious,andsometechnologieshavebeenpasseddownfromgenerationtogenerationandhavereachedaveryhighlevel.Silkcanbeproducedinalmostallplaces,andthevarietiesofsilkarealsoabundant,mainlydividedintothreecategories:silk,silk,andbrocade.TheemergenceofbrocadeisanimportantmilestoneinthehistoryofChinesesilk.Itcombinestheexcellentperformanceofsilkwithfineart.Itisnotonlyanobleclothingmaterial,butalsoaworkofart.Ithasgreatlyimprovedtheculturalconnotationandhistoricalvalueofsilkproducts,andhasafar-reachingimpact.Atthistime,ChinesesilkalsospreadtoIndia.TheIndianpoliticianandphilosopherKautilya’s"Politics"(alsotranslatedas"AdministrationoftheState")hasthewordcinapatta,whichmeans"ChinaBundlesofsilk".Inaddition,itcanbeseenfrommanycharactersinSanskritthattheancientIndianpeopleknewmoreaboutsilkthantheGreeksandRomans.Theyknewthatsilkwasspitbyworms,andsilkwasdrawnfromcocoons.
QinandHanDynasties
TheQinandHanDynastieswereaperiodofinitialconsolidationanddevelopmentofChinesefeudalsociety.TheunificationoftheQinandtheestablishmentofacentralizedpowersystemlaidthefoundationfortheprosperityoftheHanDynasty.IntheearlyHanDynasty,thepolicyof"cultivatingwiththepeople"wasimplemented,whichpromotedtherapideconomicdevelopment.Alarge-scalegovernment-runsilkindustrywasestablished,anditsproductsmainlymettheneedsofthecourtandthegovernment;theprivatesilkweavingindustryalsohadagreatdevelopment,andsomeworkshopsformedtheirownproductcharacteristicsandpopularity.ComparedwiththeShangandZhoudynasties,thesilk-producingareasdeveloped.ThefocusofsilkproductionintheWesternHanDynastywasinthemiddleandlowerreachesoftheYellowRiver.StartingfromtheEasternHanDynasty,theShubrocadeinthesouthwesthasbecomeawell-knownsilkproductthroughoutthecountry.
DuringtheQinandHandynasties,notonlydidthesilkweavingindustrygetgreatdevelopment,butwiththelarge-scaleexpansionofChina'sforeigninfluenceintheHanDynasty,thetradeandexportofsilkreachedunprecedentedprosperity.DuringEmperorWuoftheHanDynasty,heattackedtheXiongnuinthenorthandcontrolledtheHexiCorridorleadingtotheWesternRegions.ZhangQianmadetwomissionstotheWesternRegions,connectingtheinlandoftheCentralPlainstotheWesternRegionsandconnectingtheEurasiancontinent.ThepromotionoftradeledtothefurtherdevelopmentofeconomicandculturalexchangesbetweentheCentralPlainsandthefrontiers,Chinaanditsneighborsintheeastandwest,thusformingthefamous"SilkRoad".ThisroadstartsfromChang'an,goesthroughGansuandXinjiangallthewaywest,passesthroughCentralAsiaandWestAsia,andfinallyreachesEurope.InthethirdyearofYuanshuo(126yearsago),underthewestwardpolicyofEmperorWuoftheHanDynasty,ChinesesilkandsilkwerecontinuouslyexportedtoCentralAsia,WestAsiaandEuropethroughtheSilkRoad.AlargeamountofHansilkwasunearthedalongtheSilkRoad.Thefabricwasthephysicalevidenceoftheprosperityofthetradeatthattime.China'ssilkproductiontechnologyalsospreadtoCentralAsiaduringthisperiod.
DuringtheWeiandJinDynasties
DuringtheWei,JinandSouthernandNorthernDynasties,warscontinueduninterrupted,thecountrywasdividedforalongtime,andtheregimechangedfrequently.Severesocialturmoil,complicatedpoliticalstructure,andextensiveinternationalexchangeshavemadesilkproductiondifficulttodevelop,butithasrichconnotationsanddiversefaces.Duringthisperiod,thenorthwasstillthemainproducingareaofsilkfabrics.ThesilkindustryinChengdu,Sichuanhadalwaysbeendeveloped.DuetotherelevantpoliciesoftheThreeKingdomsperiod,thedevelopmentofthesilkindustryintheJiangnanareamadenewprogress.ItwasfurtherdevelopedthroughthemanagementoftheSouthernDynasty.Afterthemid-generation,theriseofJiangnansilkweavingindustrylaidthefoundation.
Thelong-termwarsintheThreeKingdoms,JinDynasty,andNorthernandSouthernDynastiescausedseriousdamagetotheeconomyoftheYellowRiverBasin.BytheSuiDynasty,thecenterofChina'ssericultureandsilkindustryhadshiftedtotheYangtzeRiverBasin.
TheSuiandTangDynasties
TheSuiandTangDynastieswerethepeakofthedevelopmentofChinesefeudalsociety.Ingeneral,thecountrywasstrong,economicallydeveloped,andbusinessprosperous,especiallytheculturalopeningup.Theeraisgraceful,generous,andeclectic.Thesilkindustryhasalsoseenaclimaxofdevelopmentonthissocialbasis.Atthattime,therewerethreeimportantsilkproducingareas:onewastheYellowRiverBasin,withHebeiandHenanasthemainbody;theotherwastheBashuareaofSichuan,wherethewestofJiannanRoadandShannanRoadcouldbeincludedinthisarea;andthethirdwasthesoutheastareaundertheYangtzeRiver.,Basicallyformingasituationwherethethreepowersstandontopofeachother.AftertheAnshiRebellion,theimportanceoftheJiangnanregionhasgreatlyincreased.Inaddition,thedevelopmentofsilkinthenorthwestregionissecondtononeintheremoteareasandshowsstronglocalcharacteristics.
TheTangDynastywastheheydayofsilkproduction,andtheoutput,qualityandvarietyreachedunprecedentedlevels.Theproductionorganizationofsilkisdividedintothreetypes:courthandicraftindustry,ruralsidelineindustryandindependenthandicraftindustry,andthescaleisgreatlyexpandedcomparedwiththepreviousgeneration.Atthesametime,theforeigntradeofsilkhasalsobeengreatlydeveloped.Notonlyhasthenumberofchannelsonthe"SilkRoad"increasedtothree,butthefrequencyoftradehasalsobeenunprecedentedlyhigh.TheproductionandtradeofsilkmadeahugecontributiontotheprosperityoftheTangDynasty.
ThesilktradeintheTangDynastywasverydeveloped,andtheland-basedsilkcommercialroadsusedaroundaboutroadtothenorth.TheMaritimeSilkRoadalsoemergedduringthisperiod.SilkproductswereexportedtotheKoreanPeninsula,JapanandSoutheastAsia,India,andevenspreadtoEuropebyArabmerchantsthroughtheEastChinaSeaLineandtheSouthChinaSeaLine.Theprosperityofthesilktradeledtothespreadofsilktechnology.Bythe7thcentury,silkproductionstartedfromJapanintheeast,Europeinthewest,andIndiainthesouthwest,whichbasicallylaidthefoundationforthepatternofsilkproductionareasinthefuture.
TheTwoSongDynasties
IntheSongDynasty,withtheadvancementofsericulturetechnology,Chinesesilkhadashortperiodofglory.Notonlyhasthevarietyofsilkpatternsincreasedsignificantly,especiallythreedistinctivenewvarietiesofsilkbrocade,silkandgold-decoratedfabricshaveappeared,andagreatbreakthroughhasbeenmadeinthesummaryandpromotionofsericultureproductiontechnology.
TheYellowRiverBasin,JiangnanregionandSichuanregionwereimportantproducingareasforsilkproductionintheNorthernSongDynasty.ThefocusofproductioninthemiddleandlatestageshasbeenshiftedtotheJiangnanregion,buttheNorthstillmaintainsanadvantageintheproductionofhigh-endsilkfabrics.IntheSouthernSongDynasty,thesilkproductionareaswerebasicallyconcentratedintheYangtzeRiverBasin,andthesilkproductioninthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhadanabsoluteadvantage.Zhejianghasbecomeaveritable"SilkHouse".LiaobegantodevelopsericultureandsilkproductionaftercapturingthesixteenstatesofYanyun.AlthoughthesilkindustryintheJinDynastyruledareawasdestroyed,italsomaintainedacertainscale.
TheofficialsilkproductionworkshopsoftheSongDynastywereofconsiderablescale.TheLingjinInstitute,theDyeingInstitute,theWensiInstituteandtheWenxiuInstituteweresetupunderthesupervisionoftheShaofuSupervisioninthecapital.Atthesametime,government-runweavingwasalsosetupinimportantsilkproductionareas.mechanism.TheAyaNishikiInstituteinTokyohadmorethan400loomsduringtheJinzongperiod,andtheannualoutputofRunzhouweavingandLuowuwas10,000horses.Wuzhou,theemergingcenterofsilkweavingindustry,isknownasthe"clothingworld".IntheTaihuLakeBasin,"thecocoonstandsonthemountain,andthesoundofthecarriageisheard".ThefolksilkweavingindustryintheSongDynastywasverydeveloped.Inadditiontobeingatraditionalhandicraftindustryinruralareas,alargenumberofsilkweavingworkshopsemergedincities,andthepowerofprivatemachineoperatorscontinuedtogrow.Intermsofforeigntrade,duetotheinterruptionoftheSilkRoadontheland,themaritimesilktradehasmadeconsiderableprogress.China'srawsilkandsilkareexportedtoallpartsoftheworldthroughtheMaritimeSilkRoad.
YuanDynasty
BeforeunifyingChina,therulersoftheYuanDynastyadjustedtheireconomicpoliciesandpaidattentiontotheprotectionofproductivityandmeansofproduction.Theofficialestablishmentoftheagriculturalmanagementagency-theDepartmentofAgriculture,toguideandsuperviseagriculturalproduction;thefirstofficialagriculturalbook"AgriculturalMulberryCollection"inhistorywasalsoissuednationwidetopromoteadvancedproductiontechnology;Agriculturalproductionandsocialeconomyhaverecoveredanddevelopedrelativelyquickly.Westernastronomy,calendar,arithmetic,andmedicinewereintroducedtoChina,andChinesecompasses,gunpowder,andprintingwerealsospreadabroad.TheculturalexchangesbetweenChinaandforeigncountriesandthepoliticalsituationofunificationhavepromotedtheimprovementofsilktechnology.ThenorthernsilkindustryinthelowerreachesoftheYellowRiverhasrebounded,thedivisionoflaborinsilkproductionhasbeenmeticulous,andtheweavingtechnologyhasimproved;inthesouthofthemiddleandlowerreachesoftheYangtzeRiver,thepositionofthecenterofgravityofsilkproductionhasbeenfurtherconsolidatedandimproved.
Sincethemid-YuanDynasty,thepatternofproductionareashasundergonemajorchanges.Silkproductioninthenorthhasdeclined,andtheJiangnanareahasbecomemoreimportant.Thereasonisthat,ontheonehand,thecolderclimatemakesthenorthunsuitableforsericultureproduction;ontheotherhand,theplantingofcottonalsomakesthesericultureindustrytendtobeconcentrated.Thehugegovernment-runweavingsystemwasanimportantfeatureofsilkproductionintheYuanDynasty,andithadacertaininhibitoryeffectonfolksilkproduction.
MingDynasty
DuetothebuddinganddevelopmentofcapitalismintheMingDynasty,theproductionandtradeofsilkhavealsoundergonemajorchanges:thecommercializationtrendofsilkproductionhasbecomemoreandmoreobvious.Overseastradehasdevelopedrapidly.TheSuhuareainthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhasbecomethemostimportantsilkproducingarea.Anumberoftypicalsilkspecializedtownshavebeendeveloped,andtheofficialweavinghasbecomeincreasinglymature.Atthistime,thedevelopmentofChinesesilkhasreacheditsmostactiveperiod.
AtthebeginningoftheMingDynasty,thepolicyoffocusingonthedevelopmentofreclamation,constructionofwaterconservancyandrevitalizationofagriculturewasadopted,whichchangedthestatusofhandicraftslavesintheYuanDynastyandgreatlyliberatedthelaborproductivity.Inadditiontotakingturnsonaregularbasis,hereditaryhandicraftsmencanmaketheirownhandicraftsandsellthemonthemarketmostofthetime,whilealsoreducingcommercialtaxes.Therestorationofagriculture,handicraftsandcommercehaspromotedtheprogressanddevelopmentofsericultureandsilkproductiontechnology.ManybooksofhighacademicvaluehavebeenpublishedintheMingDynasty.Forexample,LiShizhen’s"CompendiumofMateriaMedica"hasmadeascientificclassificationofmulberryvarieties;XuGuangqi's"NongzhengQuanshu"in"SericultureChapter"hasacomprehensivediscussiononsericultureproduction;SongYingxing's"HeavenlyCreations"wasthemostimportantworkonsilkproductionatthattime.
IntheearlyMingDynasty,aseriesofmeasureswereadoptedtoemphasizeagricultureandthrift.Theproductionareaofsericultureandsilkindustryhasbeenreduced,butaregionalintensiveproductioncenteredonthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhasbeenformed.JiaandHuarethefivemajorsilktowns.Afterthemid-MingDynasty,thesocialatmospheregraduallybecameextravagant.Undertheconditionsofcommodityeconomyandprofessionaldivisionoflabor,thesilkindustryandcommerceintheJiangnanregionenjoyedgreatprosperity.
Thegovernment-runweavingindustryintheMingDynastywasrelativelylarge.InadditiontotheestablishmentofcentraldyeingandweavinginstitutionsinNanjingandBeijing,localweavinganddyeingbureauswereestablishedinSuzhou,Hangzhou,andmorethan20placesacrossthecountry.,Tosupplythehorsesneededbythecourtandthegovernmenteveryyear.Therearetwotypesofproductionmethods,"localweaving"andoutgoing"collarweaving".Localweavingisashiftservicesystem,andthecollarweavingisaprivatemachine.ThepersonalattachmentofcraftsmenislooserthanthatoftheYuanDynasty.
Silkproductsflowedintoneighboringcountriesandregionsintheformofroyalrewards.Afterthemid-MingDynasty,thegovernmentsetup"Shibosi"inGuangzhou,Quanzhou,Ningboandotherplaces.ChineserawsilkandsilkweresoldinlargequantitiestoJapanandtoEuropeviaMacau.
DuringtheQingDynasty
IntheearlyQingDynasty,thesilkindustrysufferedheavylossesinthewar.TheKangxiperiodadoptedencouragementmeasures,andsilkproductiondevelopedrapidly,anditwasfurtherconcentratedintheTaihuLakeareaandthePearlRiverDelta.Inparticular,theJiangnanareabecamethecenterofthenationalsilkindustryintermsofscaleandlevel.
TheQingDynastygovernment-runweavingsystemabolishedtheMingDynastycraftsmanshipsystem,andtherawmaterialswerealsomainlypurchased.TheoverallscalewasreducedcomparedwiththeMingDynasty.TheimportantonesareJiangningWeavingBureau,SuzhouWeavingBureauandHangzhouWeavingBureau,Collectivelyknownas"JiangnanThreeWeaving",responsibleforsupplyingallkindsofsilkfabricsneededbythecourtandgovernment.Theproductionscaleoftheprivatesilkweavingindustryhasexpanded,andtheprofessionalandregionaldivisionoflaborhasbecomemoreobvious.Anumberofprosperoussilkprofessionaltownshaveemergedwithawidevarietyofproductsandaprosperousdomesticmarket.Intermsofforeigntrade,seabanshavebeenstrictlyenforced,therestrictionsonforeigntradehavebeenstrengthened,andone-portcommercehasbeenimplemented.Nevertheless,China'srawsilkexportstoJapanandrawsilkandsilkfabricsexportstoEuropeancountrieshavestillreachedaconsiderablescale.
InthelateQingDynasty,China'ssilkindustryfellintoaverysadsituationunderthedoubleblowofheavytaxesandforeigndumping.
DuringtheRepublicofChina
The"IndustrialPlan"formulatedbySunYat-senlisted750,000tonsofcocoons,71,000tonsofsilk,and1.125billionmetersofsilkaccordingtotheneedsof450millionpeopleinChinaatthattime.“Improvethesilkindustrytoincreaseproduction”,“researchthespinningmethodstoocarefully,andimprovethetypes,varieties,qualityandcolorofsilk”inthe"People’sLivelihood",sothat"China’ssilkindustrycanOnlythroughgradualprogresscanwecompetewithforeigncountries.Mr.Zhongshansaid,"IfChina’smulberryleaves,silkwormeggsandsilkqualityarenotimproved,ortheoldlawsarenotimproved,China’ssilkindustrywillnotonlyfail.Thewarningof"elimination"becametheconsensusofthenationalsilkindustryatthattime.Manypeopleofinsightrushedtocallfor"industrytosavethecountry",requestingtheestablishmentofsilktechnicalschools,thedevelopmentofsilkproduction,andtheincreaseofsilkexports.Atthattime,someindustrialistsrespondedpositively,andthegovernmentalsoresponded.Withcertainsupport,theproductiontechnologyofmulberrysericulture,silkwormreelingandsilkweavinghasbeenimproved.Silkhasbecomeanimportantmaterialforthecountry’sforeignexports,accountingformorethan20%ofthecountry’stotalexportvalueatthattime.(1937),whentheWarofResistanceAgainstJapanbegan,theJapaneseimperialistsinvadedandoccupiedChina'smainsilkproducingareassuchasJiangsu,Zhejiang,Shandong,andGuangdong,plunderingsilkresourcesandunderminingChina'ssilkproduction.Inthe34thyearoftheRepublicofChina(1945),afterthevictoryoftheAnti-JapaneseWarSoonafterthecivilwarbetweentheKuomintangandtheCommunistParty,theproductionandexportofcocoonsilkwasthelowestpointintheRepublicofChinainthe38thyearoftheRepublicofChina(1949),andtheentiresilkindustrywasdying.
Moderndevelopment
Domesticdevelopment
Inthetenyearsfrom1980to1990,China'srawsilkproductionincreasedfrom36,000tonsto57,000tons,andtheoutputofsilkfabricsmorethandoubled;theconsumptionofsilkfabricsItalsoincreasedfrom400millionmetersto1.22billionmeters.Therawsilkexportsaccountedformorethan80%oftheworld’srawsilktradevolume,andsilksandsatinalsoaccountedforabout50%.Theyhaveregainedthedominantpositionintheworldsilkmarket,andthesilkindustryhasbecomethecountry’smainstayofforeignexchangeearnings.Industry,arelativelycompletesilkindustrysystemhasbeenestablished,andsilkproductsaresoldinmorethan100countriesandregions.
WiththecontinuousadvancementofthetechnologicallevelofChina’ssilkindustry,thepaceoftechnologicalinnovationhasalsobeenaccelerated,especiallyforcomputers,E-commerceplatformsandmoderninformationprocessinghavebeenfullyutilizedinalldirections.Themosttypicalexampleisthatthepopularizationofcomputershascompletelyeliminatedthecenturies-oldverticalreelingmachine,whichhasgreatlyimprovedtheautomaticreelingofthesilkindustry.Thelevelofsilk.Theuseofcomputermonitoringandauxiliarymeanscanfullyrealizethesmall-batch,multi-varietybusinessmodel.Mechatronicshasbecomethemainfeatureofthedevelopmentofinternationaltextilemachinery.AlmostalljacquardmachinesandlargecircularknittingmachineshavebeeninstalledwithelectronicjacquardInstallation.
Thereliabilityofsilkproductionequipmentisthecruxofthegapbetweendomesticequipmentandtheadvancedlevelofforeigncountries.Domesticsalesofdomestictextileequipmentisonlyabout10,000units.However,accordingtoconservativeestimates,China’stextileindustrytextileseveryyear.Thedemandforequipmentisashighas20,000to30,000units.
Inthefieldofrawmaterialapplication,Chinesescientificresearchhasmaderemarkableachievements,suchasdecipheringthemysteryofthesilkwormgenome,successfullycultivatingnaturalcolorcocoons;overcomingthedifficultiesofautomaticsilkreelingandvacuuminfiltrationcocooncookingtechnology;fullymasteredTheultra-microstructureofsilkfiber;thein-depthstudyonthetensilepropertiesofthesilkwormsilkformedbyforcedtractionandtheresults;theextractionofsericinandsilkfibroinfromtheby-productsofsilkproductionhasbeenpromotedandapplied;thesuccessfuldevelopmentofthesilk/mulberryelasticsilkandbulkNewfull-silkdifferentiatedtextilematerialssuchasstretchsilk;electronicspinningmethodtopreparesilkfibroinfunctionalnanofibers;newenvironmentally-friendlydyeingmaterials,auxiliariesandsupportingprocessesforsilkhavecomeoutoneafteranother.
Intermsoffabricstructure,phasedresultshavebeenachievedintacklingsilkproblemssuchasanti-wrinkle,anti-shrinkage,andanti-fading,andhavebeenappliedtoheavysilk,realsilkgeorgette,artificialsilk,chemicalfibersilk,andcomputerembroidery.Velvet,etc.,doubletheaddedvalueoftheproduct.
Thecompositeofsilktextiletechnologyhasalsomadecontinuousprogress,whichmainlyreflects:thecompositetechnologyandprocessingtechnologyofchemicalfibers;theblendingandcompositeofnaturalfibers;thecompositeofnaturalfibersandchemicalfibers;multiplefunctionalfinishingThecomposite;thecompositeofavarietyoffabrics,suchasdouble-layerpastecomposite,inlaycompositecomposite,sandwichcomposite,etc.
TheadvantagesandgapsofChina'ssilkindustrycoexist.Chinesesilkexportcompaniescompeteforinternationalmarketsharemainlythroughvolumegrowth,whichhasexacerbatedthepricechaosinthedomesticsilkmarkettoacertainextent.Asexportpriceshavebeendecliningyearafteryear,theexportpricesofsilkandsilksandsatinarenowonly50-60%ofwhattheyweretenyearsago.Infact,China'ssilkandsilkexportshavelongbeentrappedinaviciouscircleofrisingpricesandfallingprices.AlthoughChina'ssilkindustryhasverygoodfavorableconditionsfortheproductionandsupplyofrawmaterials,therehasneverbeenabrandwithahighreputationandaconsiderablemarketshareintheworld.TheinternationalobjectiveevaluationofChinesesilkisstillstuckinChina.OnlyafterfinishinginItalyorfinishinginFrancecanitbelistedinhigh-endfashionapparel.
Forthisreason,since2002,theChinaNationalSilkAssociationbegantopayattentiontotheapprovalandregistrationofhigh-endsilkmarks.Onthisbasis,in2004,thedomesticsilkindustrylistedfivebrandsofall-silksilkproductsasChina'sfamousbrands,andgrantedthefirstbatchof17enterprisestherighttousehigh-endsilklogos.Theimplementationandpromotionofthehigh-endsilklogoindicatesthattheproductsofChinesesilkenterprisesareenteringanewperiodofsublimationfromcheaplow-gradeproductstohigh-endindustrialchainfields.
In2010,thenationalmulberryorchardareareached12.03millionmu,theoutputofsilkwormcocoonswas649,000tons,andtheoutputofrawsilkwas162,000tons,anincreaseof3.7%,5.4%and30.4%respectivelyover2005.Duringthe"TwelfthFive-YearPlan"period,China'saverageannualsilkwormcocoonoutputhasstabilizedatabout650,000tons,thetotaloutputofsilkandsilkflossproductshasreachedmorethan120,000tons,theeconomicincomeofsericulturehasexceeded20billionyuan,andthetotaloutputvalueofthesilkindustryhasreachedmorethan200billionyuan.Theexportofrealsilkproductsremainedabove3.5billionU.S.dollars.By2015,energyconsumptionperunitvalueaddedinthefieldsofcocoondryingandsilkprintinganddyeingwillbereducedbymorethan20%comparedtotheendofthe"EleventhFive-YearPlan"period,andwaterconsumptionperunitvalueaddedinthesilkindustrywillbereducedbymorethan30%.Thecomprehensiveutilizationrateofwasteisincreasedtomorethan80%.
Internationaldevelopment
1.Industrialadjustmentchangesthepatternofsilkproduction
1.Gradienttransferofcocoonsilkproduction
Fromtheperspectiveoftotalvolume,China,India,Brazil,Vietnam,Thailandandotherdevelopingcountrieshavedevelopedrapidly,whiledevelopedcountriessuchasItaly,France,Japan,andSouthKoreahaveexperiencedsharpdeclines.
2.Silkproductiontendstobemulti-polarized
Thereare65countriesandregionsintheworldwithsilkproduction,ofwhichtherearenearly40ofacertainscale,occupyingtheworld’ssilkproductionThereareaboutl0ofcertainstatus.Astheworld'slargestsilkindustryinChina,theannualoutputofsilkwormcocoonsreached440,000tons.Thehighestyearreached700,000tons,accountingforabout70%oftheworld'stotaloutput.TheproductionofcocoonandsilkinIndiahasdevelopedrapidlyandhasreplacedJapanasthesecondlargestsilkproducerintheworld.Thailand,Vietnam,Brazil,Malaysiaandothercountriesalsoattachgreatimportancetoinvestmentinthesericultureindustryandhaveadoptedaseriesofmeasurestopromotethedevelopmentoftheirownsericultureindustry.
Second,technologicalinnovationguidesthetrendofsilkconsumption
1.Intensificationofproductiontechnology
JapaneseresearchershavedevelopedsterilesilkproductiontechnologyanddevelopedtofuThelow-costartificialfeedwithslagasthemainingredientbreakstheseasonalproductionpatternofsericultureforthousandsofyears,andthecocoonsproducedhavetheadvantagesofgoodwhiteness,highsilkyield,anddirectsilkreeling.Atthesametime,countriesaroundtheworlduseadvancedtechnologytoproduce"clonedsilkworms",aswellasgenetransplantationtechnologies,newproteinmaterials,andartificialjet-spunsilkworms,whichwillsurelyreplacetraditionalcocoonproductionmethods.
Intermsofindustrialproduction,developedcountriessuchasJapan,Germany,Italy,andSouthKoreahaveusedtheircomprehensivetechnologicaladvantagestocontinuouslyinnovateinthedeepprocessingtechnologyofsilkproductsandareinaleadingpositionintheinternationalmarket.TheUnitedStates,Switzerland,Spain,etc.havestrongstrengthinthedevelopmentoffilamentfiberrawmaterialsandsilktechnologyandequipment,leadingthedevelopmenttrendofnewsilktechnologyinthe21stcentury.Inadditiontoretainingsometraditionalcraftsmanshipinmanycountries,productioncraftscontinuetoevolveinatechnology-intensivedirection,towardautomation,high-speed,andelectronicdevelopment.
2.Thediversificationofsilkproducts
Thedevelopmenttrendofnewinternationalsilktechnologyistogohandinhandinthefieldsofclothingindustry,decoration,military,cosmetics,medicalandotherfields.Japan,Italy,theUnitedStatesandotheradvancedsilkproducingcountrieshavemademajorbreakthroughsinthecomprehensiveutilizationofsilk.Forexample,theapplicationanddevelopmentofextremelyfineandextra-thicknesssilkwormspecies,silkisinaleadingpositioninthefieldsoffood,cosmetics,medicineandsoon.Japanalsousessilkwormcocoonsandsilktodevelopcardecorationmaterials,contactlenses,andartificialskin.Atthesametime,realsilk,rayon,andsyntheticfibersarediversified,andvariousrawmaterialsareblendedandcovered,makingthetypesoffibersmorediverse.
3.Fashionablewearability
Silkproductsarecloselyrelatedtofashiontrendsintermsoffabrics,textures,patternsandstyles.Thenewlydevelopedelasticfiber,TenceIfiber,realsilkinvisibleprinting,silkartworkandsooninthesilkscienceandtechnologyindustryallrepresentthefashion,fashionandenvironmentalprotectiontrendsofthesilkindustry.Forexample,knitwearblendedwithsilkandcashmerehasmadeabigsplashintheinternationalmarket.TheblendedsilkandcashmerehasgreatlyimprovedthefunctionofknittedfashionandhasbecomeanewfavoriteoffashionfavoredbycustomersinWesternEuropeandNorthAmerica.Majorbreakthroughshavebeenmadeinthetechnicalresearchanddevelopmentofnewfunctionalsilkfabrics,whichconformtothedevelopmenttrendofdiversification,compositeandfashionablesilkproductsintheinternationalmarket,andpromotetheupgradingofsilkproducts.
3.Squeezethemarkettointensifysilktradecompetition
Withtheincreaseoftheworld’spopulation,theadjustmentofthesilkindustrystructureandtechnologicalinnovation,aswellasthedeepeningofpeople’sunderstandingofnaturalsilkproducts,Silkconsumptionwillcontinuetogrowsteadily.However,withtheintegrationoftheglobaleconomyandChina'saccessiontotheWTO,competitioninthesilkmarketwillbecomeincreasinglyfierce.
1.Silktradebarriersrestrictfaircompetition
Fromtheperspectiveoftheentiretextileindustry,silkexportshaverelativelyfewtradebarriersandtheexportenvironmentisrelativelyloose,buttheyhavealsobeensubjecttoquotas,tariffs,etc.Restrictionsontradebarriers.Atthesametime,duetotheimpactoftextiletradebarriers,theexportofcross-productsinterwovenwithtextilematerialssuchasrealsilk,cottonandlinenhasbeengreatlyrestricted.TheEuropeanUnionandtheUnitedStatesarethemainsalesmarketsforChinesesilk.Inordertoresistalargeamountoflow-pricedChinesesilkandsilkapparelimportsandavoidanimpactonthesilkcirculationindustry,theEUandtheUnitedStatesbegantoimposequotarestrictionsonChinesesilkandapparelimportsin1994.Since1998,althoughEuropeandtheUnitedStateshavecancelledsomequotasforChinesesilkproducts,certainrestrictionsarestillimposed.Inordertoprotectitsowninterests,JapanhasimposedthemostrestrictionsontheimportofChinesesilkproducts.Withthepopularityofsilk-linen,silk-cottonandotherblendedfabricapparelintheinternationalmarket,theimpactoftextilequotarestrictionsontheexpansionofsilkapparelproductsandmarketspacehasbecomemoreandmoreobvious.
2.Countrieshavesqueezedintotheinternationalsilkmarket
Silkconsumptionspreadsallovertheworld.ChinaandBrazilarethemainexportsuppliersofcocoonsandrawsilkintheworldsilkmarket.China,Japan,SouthKorea,India,Thailandisthemainexportsupplierofsilkfabricsintheworld,whileChina,JapanandSouthKoreaarealsothemainexportsuppliersofsilkapparelintheworldsilkmarket.ThereisalmostnosericultureindustryinFrance,Italy,Germany,Switzerland,andHongKong,China.Theymainlyimportrawsilkandsilkandotherrawmaterialsafterdeepprocessingfordomesticandforeignconsumption.TheUnitedStates,Australia,NewZealand,SaudiArabiaandsomeNorthAmericancountriesdirectlyimportsilkproductsfordomesticconsumption.Withtherecoveryandgrowthoftheworldeconomy,countrieshaveaimedattheglobalsilkmarketandstrivedtoexpandtheirsilkproductexports.TheriseanddevelopmentofsilkproducingcountriessuchasIndiaandVietnamwillfurthersqueezetheinternationalmarketshare.SouthKorea,Italy,GermanyandothercountriesusetheirtechnologicaladvantagestoimportcocoonsilkrawmaterialsfromChina,Japan,andBrazil,andthenexportthemtodevelopedcountriessuchastheUnitedStatesafterprocessing.TheyhavebecomeChina'sstrongestcompetitorsinsilkgarmentexports.
Industryprospects
China'ssilkindustryisdevelopingrapidly,andsilkproductionranksfirstintheworld.Amongthem,cocoonsilkandsilksatincandominateinternationalmarketproductionandpricetrends.TheindustriesaremainlydistributedinJiangsu,Zhejiang,Guangdong,Guangdong,Shandong,Anhui,andSichuan.Thesynergybetweenindustriesindifferentregionsneedstobeimproved.Duringthe"EleventhFive-YearPlan"period,boththeoutputvalueandsalesscaleofChina'ssilkindustryhaveachievedsubstantialgrowth.Byacceleratingstructuraladjustmentandindustrialupgrading,stabilizingthetraditionalexportmarket,andactivelyopeningupthedomesticmarket,theconnectionbetweenproductionandsaleshascontinuedtoimprove,thequalityandefficiencyoftheindustry'soperationhaveimprovedsignificantly,thedevelopmenthasbeenstable,andthemomentumhasbeengood.
Thedemandforhealthy,functionalandpersonalizedsilkproductscontinuestoincrease.Itcanbeseenthattheinherentadvantagesofsilkfibersaregraduallybeingre-recognizedbymodernpeople.Thedomesticsilkmarketwithapopulationof1.3billionhashugepotentialfordevelopment.
AlthoughChina’ssilktradeaccountedfor80%oftheworld’stotal,theproportionofexportsdroppedfrom3.4%in1985to0.19%in2011.ThisshowsthatChinaisabigsilkcountrybutnotnecessarilyasilkpower..Chinaistheworld'slargestsilkproducerandexporter.China'srawsilkproductionaccountsformorethan70%oftheworld'stotalproduction,anditsexportvolumeaccountsformorethan80%oftheworld'stotaltrade.Increasingthetechnologicalcontentofsilkproducts,developingnewsilkproducts,andsatisfyingtheconsumerdemandofemergingconsumersisaninevitabletrendforthegrowthofinternationalsilkconsumptioninthefuture.
ThedevelopmentmomentumofChina'scocoonandsilkindustryisgood.In2010,thenationalmulberryorchardareareached12.031millionmu,theoutputofsilkwormcocoonswas649,000tons,andtheoutputofrawsilkwas152,000tons,anincreaseof3.7%,5.4%and30.4%respectivelyover2005.
Silkculture
Overview
SilkisasymbolofancientChinesecultureandhasmadeanindeliblecontributiontothedevelopmentofhumancivilizationintheworld.Chinesesilkisfamousallovertheworldforitsexcellentquality,exquisitepatternsandrichculturalconnotations.Thousandsofyearsago,silkpassedfromChang'antoEuropealongtheSilkRoad.Itbroughtnotonlypiecesofgorgeousclothingandaccessories,butalsotheancientandsplendidcivilizationoftheEast.Sincethen,silkhasalmostbecomeThecommunicatorandsymbolofEasterncivilization.
Fourfamousembroidery
Suembroidery isthegeneraltermforembroideryproductscenteredinSuzhou,Jiangsu,includingtheJiangsuregion.ThebirthplaceofSuzhouembroideryisinWuxianCounty,Suzhou.ItborderstheTaihuLake.Ithasamildclimateandisrichinsilk.Localwomenhaveatraditionalcustomofembroidering.ThesuperiorgeographicalenvironmentandthesplendidandrichbrocadehavecreatedfavorableconditionsforthedevelopmentofSuzhouembroidery.Intheprocessoflong-termhistoricaldevelopment,Suzhouembroideryhasformedartisticlocalstyleswithbeautifulpatterns,harmoniouscolors,brightlines,livelystitches,andfineembroidery,whichisknownasthe"PearloftheOrient." | |
ShuEmbroidery Alsoknownas"SichuanEmbroidery"isthegeneraltermforSichuanembroideryproductscenteredonChengdu.ThehistoryofShuembroideryisverylong.Accordingtotherecordsin"TheHistoryofHuayangKingdom"byChangchangoftheJinDynasty,embroideryinShuwasveryfamousatthattime,andShuembroiderywasplacedalongsideShubrocadeasafamousproductinShu.Shuembroideryusessoftsatinandcoloredsilkasthemainrawmaterials,andhasarichvarietyofstitches.Itgivesfullplaytotheadvantagesofhandembroideryandformsastronglocalstyle.ThesubjectsofShuembroideryaremostlyflowers,birds,animals,landscapes,insects,fish,andcharacters.Inadditiontopureappreciationembroideryscreens,therearequilts,pillowcases,clothes,shoes,cushions,tablecloths,headscarves,handkerchiefs,paintedscreens,etc.Therearebothhugescreensandsmallpocketpieces,whichareexquisiteworksofartthatarebothornamentalandpractical. | |
HunanEmbroidery HunanChangshaisthegeneraltermforembroideryproductscenteredon.InthefirstyearoftheRepublicofChina(1912)andthe22ndyearoftheRepublicofChina(1933),HunanEmbroiderywonthebestprizeandfirstprizeattheTurinFairinItalyandtheWorldExpoinPanama.ThecharacteristicofHunanembroideryistoembroiderwithvelvetthread(notwistedwoolthread).Infact,thevelvetthreadisprocessedinasolutiontopreventfuzzing.Thiskindofembroideryislocallycalled"finewoolenembroidery".HunanembroideryisalsomostlybasedontraditionalChinesepaintings,withvividshapesandboldstyles.Itoncehadthereputationof"embroideringpeanuts,embroideringbirdscanlisten,embroideringtigerscanrun,andembroideringpeoplecanexpressspirit".ThecolormatchingcharacteristicsofHunanembroideryhumanisticpaintingsaremainlydark,lightgrayandblackandwhite,whichareassimpleandelegantasinkpainting;thecolorsofthedailynecessitiesofHunanembroideryaregorgeous,andthepatternsandpatternsarehighlydecorative. | |
CantoneseEmbroidery GuangdongThegeneraltermofembroideryartincludesthetwoschoolsof"GuangzhouEmbroidery"centeredonGuangzhouand"TideEmbroidery"representedbyChaozhou.Previously,mostembroideryworkersweremenfromGuangzhouandChaozhou,whichwasrareintheworld.CantoneseembroiderybeganintheTangDynastyandformeditscharacteristicsinthemiddleandlateMingDynasty.ItwasexportedfromGuangzhouPortintheQingDynastyandbecamefamousabroad.Thecraftsmanshipissuperb,thecompositionisstrongandthedecorationisstrong,thecolorisrichandbright,theembroideryissmoothandbright,theliteratureandscienceareclear,andthevelvetisfreeandeasy."MiscellaneousDuYang"writtenbySuEoftheTangDynastydescribedGuangEmbroideryasfollows:"TheNanhaiGongqifemaleeyebrowladyinthefirstyearofYongzhengwasfourteenyearsold.Shewasextremelyskillfulandcouldembroidersevenvolumesof"FaHuaJing"ononefootofsilk.Thesizeofthecharactersisnotlargerthanthemillet,butthedotsareclearlydivided,asdetailedasahair,andtheinscriptions,chaptersandsentences,withoutanyfault.Itisbettertobeaflyingfairy,coveredwithasilkandahook,dividedintothreestrands,dyedintofivecolors...". |
Threefamousbrocades
Yunjin referstoakindofjacquardsilkweavingcraftsproducedinNanjing,withfineweaving,exquisitepatterns,andcolorfulbrocadepatterns.Itisacollectionofsilkweavingcraftsmanshipofpastdynasties.Thepreciousexperienceofvariousothersilkweavingcraftshasreachedthepinnacleofsilkweavingcrafts.ThemainfeatureofYunjinisthatithasdifferentcolorsfromflowertoflower.Observedfromdifferentangles,thecolorsofflowersonembroideryaredifferent.ThehistoryofbrocadecanbetracedbacktotheSongDynasty.Itgotitsnamebecauseofitsbrilliantcolorandresemblancetocloudsinthesky.ItwaspopularintheMingandQingdynasties.ThethreedynastiesofYuan,MingandQingwereallroyaltributes.Thelastmilestone.In2006,YunjinwasincludedinChina'sfirstbatchofintangibleculturalheritagelists.InSeptember2009,itwasselectedintotheUnitedNations"RepresentativeListofIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity".TheinheritanceunitisNanjingYunjinResearchInstitute. | |
ShuBrocade OriginalThecoloredbrocadeproducedinSichuanlaterbecamethegeneraltermforbrocadeproducedinvariousplaceswheretheweavingmethodresembledthatofShu.Shubrocadeismostlywovenwithdyedcookedsilkthreads,thewarpthreadsareflowered,thecolorstripsareusedforcoloringorthecolorstripsareusedforicing,andthegeometricpatternorganizationandornamentationarecombined.Shubrocadepatternsaredrawnfromawiderangeofmaterials,suchasmythsandlegends,historicalstories,Zhanxianginscriptions,landscapefigures,flowers,birds,andbeasts.Chengdu's"JinguanCity"wasnamedaftertheQinandHanDynasties.AlmostallbrocadesfromtheQinandHanDynastiestotheSuiandTangDynastieswereShubrocades.ItisoneofthemaintradingproductsoftheSilkRoadandthepredecessorofKyotoNishijin-ori,atraditionalJapanesenationaltreasure.In2006,ShubrocadeweavingskillswereapprovedbytheStateCounciltobeincludedinthefirstbatchofnationalintangibleculturalheritagelists.TheinheritanceunitisChengduShuBrocadeandEmbroideryMuseum. | |
SongJin OriginAttheendoftheSongDynasty,themainproducingareawasinSuzhou.Thepatternispreciseandmeticulous,andthetextureisfirm;thepatternissymmetricalandrigorousandvaried,richandsmooth;thecolorisbrightbutnothot,complicatedandnotchaotic;theproductionprocessischaracterizedbythesimultaneousdisplayofwarpandweft.SongJinhasstrongpracticability,softandfirmtexture,exquisitepattern,wear-resistantandcanbewashedrepeatedly,andithasawiderangeofapplications.SongbrocadewasdevelopedonthebasisoftheShubrocadeintheTangDynasty.In2006,itwasincludedinthefirstbatchofnationalintangibleculturalheritagelist.TheinheritanceunitistheSuzhouSilkMuseum. |
Emperor'sclothing
Chinaisacountryofetiquetteandancientclothes.Toacertainextent,thedevelopmentofChinesesilkisalsoamicrocosmoftheHuanghuangetiquettesystem.ItcanbesaidthatancientChineseclothingisoneofthetoolsoftheetiquettesystemof"differentiatingrespectandinferiority",andisamaterializedexpressionofthefeudalpatriarchalsystem.
Thecostumeswornbyancientemperorshavespecialmarkings,andaformalcostumesystemisneededtoprovideforthem,andtheymustbestrictlyenforced.Fromtheshapeandcoloroftheclothestothelengthofthesilkthreadandthematerial,theyareallrelatedtoetiquette.Therefore,imperialcostumesaretheyardstickandcornerstoneoftheentirecostumesystem.
"Standard"specialemperorcostumesappearedintheWesternZhouDynasty.Atthattime,therulershadstrictregulationsontheclothingwornbyallkindsofpeople,andtheywereincludedinthecategoryof"ZhouLi".Hierarchyisveryobvious,andarroganceisnotallowed.Thedevelopedtextile,printinganddyeingproductiontechnologyatthattimeprovidedasolidmaterialfoundationfortheZhouDynastytoestablishaperfectclothingsystem.InordertoconsolidatetheWesternZhouregime,ZhouGongdan,whoassistedtheking,formulatedacompletesteppedpatriarchalhierarchicalsystemtoclearlyindicatethattheupperandlowergarmentsoftheofficialposition,thepublicservantsgoingout,andthedescendantsofYanjuweredifferent.Theform,texture,color,pattern,andornamentsofthecrownwerespecifiedindetailandbecameanimportantcontentoftheruleofritualintheZhouDynasty.
"TheBookofChanges"contains:"TianXuan(skyblue)andgroundyellow(earthcolor)."ZhouTianziwearsmysteriousclotheswhenhesacrificestothesky.Theblackreferstoblackwithredandyellowcolors.,XuanYiisablackfabrictop,andChangisared-yellowbottomChang.Thecoatispaintedwithsixchapters:sun,moon,star,mountain,dragon,andChineseinsects.Itissimilartomodernhand-paintedclothing.Itispainteddirectlyontheclothbythepainterwithpen,inkandpigment;Therearesixchaptersincluding,fenmi,黼,黻,atotaloftwelvechaptersofpatternsandpatterns.
Beforetheweek,thecostumesoftheemperorswereembroideredwiththeabove-mentionedtwelvechapterpatterns.IntheZhouDynasty,becauseofthepatternsofthesun,moon,andstarsonthebanners,thecostumeswerenolongerrepeatedandchangedtotwelvechapters.Forninechapters.Theorderofornamentationisheadedbydragon,dragon,mountain,flower,insect,fire,andZongyiarehand-painted;algae,ricenoodles,millet,andmilletareallrustedup.Thesubsequentdynastiesbasicallycontinuedthetraditionalpatternofthetwelvechapters.ThetwelvechaptersgraduallybecamethespecialdecorationsoftheemperorsofthepastdynastiesinChina.ItwasasymbolofancientChineseroyalpower.ThedragonandphoenixinChapterTwelvearegraduallydedicatedtotheemperor.Thedragonbecomesthesymboloftheemperor,andthephoenixistherepresentativeofthesupremewoman.
Officials'supplementaryclothing
AmongtheancientChineseclothingsystems,thebestreflectionofthecloserelationshipbetweensilkandthefeudalhierarchyisthesupplementaryclothingofthecivilandmilitaryofficials.Mendingclothingisakindofofficialclothesdecoratedwiththeemblemofgrade,orcalledmendinggown,whichisdifferentfromotherofficialclothes.Themaindifferenceisthatthefrontandbackofhiscostumeareeachembossedwithatonicofthesameform,contentandmeaning.Therefore,aslongasyoulookatthepatternonthetonic,youcanknowtherankandtasteoftheperson,whichisabitsimilartotherankoftoday'smilitaryofficer.
TheoriginoftoniccanbetracedbacktotheTangDynasty,anditsoriginseemstoberelatedtoWuZetian'suseofrobepatternstodeterminegrades."TaiPingYuLan"vol.692quotes"TangShu":"TheEmpressWucameoutwithascarletpurplesingleLuoMinglapelbackrobetobestowcivilandmilitaryministers,andtheirrobesaredifferent....Theprimeministerdecoratedthewindpond,andtheShangShudecoratedForthewildgoose,theleftandrightguardsaredecoratedwithaunicorn,andtheleftandrightguardsaredecoratedwithapairoftigers."
TheYuanDynastystonecarvingsunearthedfromtheYangqunTempleinInnerMongoliahaveflower-patternedtonics.Atthesametime,theyarefoundinsomeYuanDynastytombs.Indeed,manyYuandynastyfabricsintheformofsquarepadswerediscovered.However,thesecostumesdidnotappearassupplementaryclothes,andtheseFangsupplementsweremostlyflower-shaped,andtheywerenotusedasasymbolofofficialrankatthetime.
ThereplenishmentservicethattrulyrepresentstheofficialpositionwasfinalizedintheMingDynasty.Accordingtotherecordsof"MingHistory·YufuZhi",inthetwenty-fourthyearofHongwu(1391),theofficialuniformwasalargerobewithacollar,asquarepatchonthechestandback,andthecivilofficialembroideredabirdtoshowcivilization.Themilitaryattacheembroideredthebeasttodemonstratethemartialarts.
JudgingfromtheofficialsupplementsunearthedandhandeddownintheMingDynasty,therearethreemethodsofmakingbrocade,embroideryandtapestry.Earlyofficialsupplementswererelativelylargeandwell-made.Civilservantsuseddoublebirdstoaccompanythem,whilemilitaryofficersusedsinglebeasts,eitherstandingorsquatting.IntheQingDynasty,onlyasinglestandingpoultrywasusedasatonicforcivilofficials,andthegradeswereslightlydifferent.
ValueSignificance
Chinaisthehometownofsilk.SilkisoneoftheimportantcharacteristicsofChinesecivilization.IthasalottodowithChina’setiquettesystem,cultureandart,customs,andscienceandtechnology.Link.Theemperorusedsilktodemonstratehisauthority,andhundredsofofficialsusedsilktomarktheirranks;literatiwrotepoemspraisingsilk,andpainterssplashedinkonsilkmadeofsilk;ordinarypeopleworshipedvarioussilkwormgodsandprayedforarichsilk,whilethecourtdidGiveaclasstopersuadethesericulture,andusethistoevaluatetheperformanceofthelocalofficials.Twoofthefourgreatinventionsaredirectlyrelatedtosilk.Theoriginalmeaningof"paper"istheaccumulationofvelvetsilkintheprocessofmakingsilkfloss.Theinventionofprintingisdirectlyrelatedtoletterpressprintingonsilk.TheprintedsilkfabricsunearthedfromtheHantombofMawangduihavebeenoverprintedinlargeareasandarenearlyathousandyearsearlierthantheofficialTangDynastyengravingprints.Therefore,itcanbesaidthatthereliefprintingonsilkistheoriginatorofengravingprinting.Inaddition,thedevelopmentoftheMaritimeSilkRoaddirectlypromotedthepracticeandimprovementofthecompass.
Silkisnotonlyasimpleandexpensiverawmaterialforclothing,ithasalsoplayedanimportantcurrencyfunctionforalongtimeinhistory.ForChina,“silk”isnotonlyacommodity,butthecurrencyitself.Itcanbeusednotonlytopaythesoldiers'salaries,butalsotopayforthepurchaseofhorsesandothercommodities.Chinausessilktobuyanimalproductsfromgrasslandtribes,andgrasslandpeoplesellthesesilkswestwardalongtheSilkRoad.Itwasinthisprocessthatsilkrealizedthetransformationfromcurrencytocommodity.ItalsoexplainedwhyRomanandByzantinegoldcoinswereoftenfoundattheeasternendofthe"SilkRoad",whileChinesecoppercoinswererarelyunearthedintheWest.SilkItisthecurrencyoftheSilkRoad.
1.Promotingthedevelopmentofthetextileindustry
Thelocalsilkculturereactedtothelocaltextileindustry,makingitcarryoutaseriesofinnovationsandreformsontheoriginalbasis,thusImprovedlaborproductivity,creatednewfabrictypes,andfurtherenrichedsilkculture.
ThecontributionofChinesesilktotheworldfirstliesinthespreadofChinesesilktechnologyalongwiththespreadofsilk.ChinesesilktechnologywasfirstintroducedtoCentralAsia.Thereisastoryinthe"StoryoftheWesternRegionsoftheTangDynasty"abouttheprincessChuansiwhointroducedsilkwormeggstothekingdomofQuSatan.ThespreadofsilkwormeggsfromCentralAsiatoEuropetookplaceduringthereignofJustinian.APersianmonkhidthesilkwormeggsinawalkingstickandbroughtthemtoRome.Thus,theChinesesilkwormsilktechnologyspreadtoEurope.
Inadditiontosericulturetechnology,silkreelingandsilkjacquardtechnologyhavealsohadasignificantimpactonWesterntextiletechnology.Inhis"HistoryofScienceandTechnologyinChina",NeedhamlistedthescientificandtechnologicalachievementsthatChinahascontributedtotheworldstartingwith26Englishletters,including:F-jacquardandhorizontalloom;G-silkreelingmachine,spinningmachineSilkmachineandsilkmachine.BecauseEuropehasabsorbedthesetechnologies,itsowntextiletechnologyhasbeengreatlyimproved,whichhasledtomanymechanicalinnovations.ItisonthisbasisthatthetextileindustrialrevolutioninmodernEuropeispossible.Theprincipleofsilkjacquard,thatis,theprocessofstoringinformationandtransformingitintoajacquardprogramthroughthecoordinationofheddlesandtreadrods,orbycompilingpatterns,containsprofoundmathematicalideas.AfterbeingintroducedtoEurope,itnotonlyhadagreatinfluenceonthedevelopmentofEuropeansilkweavingtechnology,butalsohadagreatinfluenceonthedevelopmentofmoderntelegraphcommunicationtechnologyandevencomputerprinciples.
Foreignsilkculturehasanevengreaterimpactonthedevelopmentandinnovationofthelocaltextileindustry.AfterChinesesilkenteredEuropeancountries,themonarchsofvariouscountriesestablishedanddevelopedtheirownsilkweavingindustries.Inthisprocess,thespreadofsilkcultureisnotasimplecopy,butcontinuousimprovementandcontinuousfullness.Forexample,WesternEuropeansilkweaverscombinedtheirrichimaginationandfeelingsofcolorintothecreativityoftheancestorsoftheChinesenation,makingtextiletechnologyincreasinglysophisticatedandscientific,andbecomingtheforerunnerofmodernindustry.Itispreciselybecauseofthisextremelycreativecombinationthatgreatlyenrichedandpromotedthedevelopmentoftextiletechnology.Aftertheformationofforeignsilkculture,itwasfedbacktoChina,whichplayedanimportantroleinpromotingthedevelopmentandprogressofChina'stextileindustry,especiallythemodernmachinetextiletechnology,whichhadahugeimpactonthedevelopmentofChina'stextileindustry.
2.PromotingthedevelopmentofChineselanguageandliterature
SilkculturehasplayedabigroleinthegenerationanddevelopmentofChinesecharacters,whichisreflectedintheChinesecharactersasbeingrelatedtomulberry,silkworm,andsilk.Andtheproductionandapplicationofalargenumberof"纟"charactersandrelatedChinesecharacters.In"ShuowenJiezi",9353charactersofsealscriptareincluded,includingthe"纟"part,248characters,accountingforabout3%ofthetotalnumberofsealscripts.TherearealsoalargenumberofwordsrelatedtothesecharactersinChinese,suchas:silkworm,mulberry,sangzi,silkworm,silkreeling,spinning,silkroad,silkpainting,jadesilk,wealthsilk,etc.Mostofthesewordsarecloselyrelatedtotheproductionofsilkindustry.
Inaddition,therearemanyidiomsandallusionsrelatedtosilkculture,suchascocooningoneself,tricks,tricks,nightwalks,andhomecoming.Inaddition,alargenumberofliteraryworksalsodescribesericulturesilktoexpressemotionsorreflectsocialreality,suchasLiBai's"MoShangSang",DuFu's"BaiSiXing"andsoon.
3.Promotingthederivationoffolkculture
Silkcultureisrichinfolkcustoms.TheChineseworshipofthesilkwormgodhasahistoryofthousandsofyears.Mythsandlegendsareendless,andtherearemanysilkwormgods,andtherearenofewerthan10authenticsilkwormgodseverywhere.Numerousballads,proverbs,dialectsandidiomsaboutsilkculturearetheactivationofhistoryandaccumulatestrongfolkcustoms.Manycustoms,socialcustomsandlifeetiquettecustomsarerelatedtosilkculture.
4.Promotingthedevelopmentofartsandcrafts
Silkculturehaspenetratedintoallaspectsofculturallife,whichhasagreatimpactonpeople’saesthetictaste,andfurtheraffectsotherarts,evenPromotetheemergenceofsomenewartcategories.Thestyleofsilkpatternsinthepre-QinDynastywassimple,generous,andvaried.Thesepatternsinteractedwiththepatternsofpottery,metalware,andlacquerwareofthesamegeneration,andwerecompatiblewiththelevelofweavingtechnologyatthattime.ThepaintedlacquerwareoftheEasternZhouDynastycanbeseeninrichsecondaryandcomplexcolors,whichechoesthecolorcharacteristicsofsilkfabricsatthattime.Theoriginofthe"twelvechapterpattern"iscloselyrelatedtosilkhand-paintingandembroidery.The"twelve-chapterpattern"laterevolvedintoaspecialpatternontheemperor'sdragonrobeandbecameanimportantpartoftheancientcostumeculture.
TheinventionofChinesepaintingandcalligraphyricepaperisdirectlyrelatedtotheancientsilk"silk"and"silkcloth".Infact,theinventionofpaperisstillinfluencedbysilk.Theoriginalintentionofpaperisthatsilkisintheprocessofrinsing.Thedepositedsilkscrapsaredepositedintoathinlayercalledpaper.Inspiredbythis,peopleusefiberinsteadofsilkfibertomakepaper,whichhasbecomeamajorinventioninChina.Anothermajorinventionofprintingalsooriginatedinthesilkindustry.IthasbeenverifiedthatletterpressprintingonancientChinesesilkisthepredecessorofblockprinting.Intraditionalprintingprocesses,manypartsaredirectlyderivedfromprintingtechnology.Theinventionofpaperandprintinggreatlypromotedthedevelopmentofmanyartssuchascalligraphyandpainting.
5.Promotingtheexchangeofworldcultures
Silk,asoneofthegreatinventionsofancientChina,hascontributedalottoworldcivilizationthroughtheancientSilkRoad.Atthesametime,foreigncultureshavealsoadoptedTheentryoftheSilkRoadintoChinahasmadethelocalculturemorecolorful.JapanhasrepeatedlyacceptedChineseimmigrantstoliveinthecountryorsentenvoystoChinatolearnsilkweavingtechnology.AfterChineseimmigrants,largenumbersofJapanesestudentsandscholarlymonksaccompaniedthemissiontoJapan,theyplayedanimportantroleinJapan'spolitical,economic,andculturalreformanddevelopment.EspeciallyintheSuiandTangdynasties,thecultureoftheSuiandTangdynastieshadastrongimpactonJapanesesocietyandculture.InJapan,anunprecedented"ImitatedTangCulture"hasbeenformed,andithaslastedformorethan200years.AfterenteringChinaasafeedback,Japaneseculturehasbroadenedpeople’sspiritualhorizons.Manycultureshavealsobecomethethemesofpoetryandsongs.Somesilksarepatternedwithexoticgodsprayingforauspiciousnessorlegends,whichhavebeenabsorbedbyChinesecraftsmenandenrichedtheChinesepeople.Culturalinterest.Inaddition,asa"peacemessenger"ofvariouscountries,silkhasplayedakeyroleinthediplomacyofvariouscountries.Countriesusesilktradeormutualdonationofsilkfabricsasabreakthroughpointtostrengthentiesbetweencountries,maintainpeaceandstabilityininternationalrelations,andprovidegoodconditionsandanenvironmentfortheprogressanddevelopmentofworldcivilization.
OnJune22,2014,China,KazakhstanandKyrgyzstanjointlydeclaredtheeasternpartofthelandSilkRoad"SilkRoad:RoadNetworkofChang'an-TianshanCorridor"successfullydeclaredasaworldcultureHeritagebecamethefirstsuccessfulapplicationforheritagethroughcross-bordercooperation.
Silkclassification
Fourteencategories
Thesilkvarietiesaredividedinto14categoriesaccordingtothefabricstructure,warpandweftcombination,processingtechnologyandtheshapeofthesilksurface.Exceptforyarn,Luo,andcashmere,regardlessoftheflowerdepartmentorthegroundorganization,theothercategoriesarebasedonthegroundorganization.Eachtypeofsilksurfacecanhavetheperformanceofplain(training,bleaching,dyeing)orflower(weaving,printing).
Spinning:Plainweave,usingrawweavingorsemi-dyedweavingprocess.Generally,warpandweftarenottwistedorweaklytwisted.Thesilksurfaceisrelativelyflatandthetextureislightandtough. | Crepe:Plainweaveorotherorganization,thewarporweftisstrengthened,orbothwarpandweftarestrengthened,showingobviousguiltandElasticfabric. |
Satin:Afabricwithsatinweaveandasmoothandshinysilksurface. | Ling:Usetwillweaveorchangetwillweave,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithobviousdiagonallines. |
Yarn:Allorpartofthefabricusingyarnweave,madebytwistingthefirstandsecondwarpyarnsateveryotherweft. | Luo:AllorpartofthefabricusingtheLuoweaving,twistedbyoneormoreodd-numberedweftsofthefirstandsecondwarps.WhatistwistediscalledLuo. |
Fleece:Allfabricsaremadeofpiletissue,andthesilksurfaceispiledorlooped. | Braid:ayarn-dyedjacquardfabricwithsatinandtwillweavesandexquisiteandcolorfulpatterns. |
Yarn:Lightweight,perforatedfabricwithplainweaveoryamweave. | Whetheritusesvariousstructuresandthickerwarpandweftthreads,ithasarichtextureandawool-likefabric. |
Ge:Useplainweave,twillweaveanditschangestructure,warpandweftsparse,warpandweftthick,thicktexture,silksurfacewithhorizontalweftweavefabric. | Taint:athickandthickfabricwithplainweave,filamentaswarp,cottonorotheryarnasweft. |
Silk:usedinplainweave,fine,smoothandcrispfabric. | Silk:afabricwithplainweaveorvaryingweaveswithtightlyinterlacedwarpandweft. |
Thirty-fivesubcategories
Mainlydividedaccordingtotheperformanceofsilksurface:
1,doubleCrepe:Plainweaveisused,withnowarptwist,twoleftandtworightstrongtwistedsilksareusedfortheweft,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithauniformcrepeeffect.
2.QiaoQi:Theplainweaveisused,andthewarpandweftusetwoleftandtworightstrongtwistedsilks.Thetextureisthinandlight,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithgauzeandcrepeeffect.
3.Bi-crepe,notwistinwarp,Bi-crepethread(20/22Dx3plusStwist1600T/m,then20/22D1,plusZtwist1600T/m),itisfineanddensewrinklesOffabric.
4.Shun纡:non-twistwarp,weftuseunidirectionalstrongtwistsilk,silksurfaceisstraightwrinkledfabric.
5.TAFF:Useplainweave,dyeingwithwarpandweftfirst,fineandcrisptextureofcookedfabric.
6.Powerspinning:mulberrysilk(tussahsilk)rawweaveplainfabric.
7.Thinspinning:usingmulberrysilktowoven,plainweavefabricwithasquaremetersilkweightof6m/mandbelow.
8.Spunsilkspinning:plainweavefabricsmadeofspunsilkinbothwarpandweft.
9.Cottonsilk:Thewarpandweftaremadeofsilk-wrappedplainweave.
10.DoublePalace:AllorpartofthedoublePalacesilkfabric.
11.Knots:Allorpartoftheknots,slubsilk,fabricswithapimpleeffect.
12.Starpattern:fabricwithcrepeweave.
13.Ribbing:Afabricwithfrivoloushorizontalstripesononeorbothsides.
14.Flowerthread:Allorpartofthefabricismadeofcoloredtwistedthreadorcoloredthread.
15.Strip:Afabricwithahorizontalandverticalstripedpatternonthesilksurface.
16.Lattice:Afabricwithlatticepatternsonthesilksurface.
17.Toocool:Usefakeyarntoformatransparentfabricwithgauzeeyes.
18.Yarn-dyed:Allorpartofdyedsilkfabrics.
19.Double-sided:atripleweaveisapplied,andthefrontandbacksideshavethesametypeoftwillorsatinweavefabric.
20.Concave-convex:fabricwithconcavo-convexpatterns.
21,mountain-shaped;theapplicationofmountain-shapedorzigzagtwillweave,showingobviousmountain-shapedorzigzagflower-shapedfabric.
22.Flower:Jacquardfabric.
23.Trimming:Trimmedjacquardfabric.
24.Glossy:pureviscosesilkfabricwithglossviscosesilkorsemi-glosscuprosilk.
25.Matte:purerayonfabricofmatteviscosesilkormattecopperammoniasilk.
26.Theglitterisafabricthatispurelywovenorinterwovenwithluminoussuper-glossprofiledcross-sectionsyntheticfilaments,showingashiningeffect.
27.Brightlight:Itisafabricthatispurelywovenorinterwovenwithgoldandsilvercoins(aluminumskin),showingalighteffect.
28.Raw:non-refinedfabricwovenwithrawsilk.
29.Specialdyeing:warporweftyarnsarefabricswithtwo-colorandtie-dyedpatterneffectusingspecialdyeingtechniquessuchastie-dyeing.
30.Warpprinting:fabricswovenaftersilkprinting.
31、拉绒:经过拉绒整理的织品。
32、立绒:经过立绒整理的织品。
33、和服:门幅在40厘米以下,或整幅中织有各40厘米以下的开剪缝,供加工和服专用品。
34、大条:经纬采用柞大条丝的平纹织品。
35、缂丝:通过通经断(回)纬的方式制造的平纹或其他组织的特种丝织品。