silk

Rawmaterialcharacteristics

Naturalfiber

Thenaturalfibercontainedinsilkismainlysilkfiber,whichisacontinuouscoagulationofthesilkliquidsecretedbythecocoonwhenthecocoonisformed.Longfiber,alsoknownasnaturalsilk,isoneoftheearliestanimalfibersusedbyhumans,includingmulberrysilk,tussahsilk,castorsilk,andcassavasilk.

Silkfiberistheonlynaturalfilamentfiberthathasbeenputintopracticaluse.Itismadefromthecoagulationofsilkwormslime.Silkfibersaredividedintomanytypesduetothedifferentfeedinghabitsofsilkworms.Amongthem,therearemulberrysilkfibersformedbyeatingmulberryleaves,tussahsilkfibersformedbyeatingtussahleaves,andotherwildsilkfibersformedbyeatingcassavaleaves,mulberryleaves,andcastorleaves.Mulberrysilkfiberandtussahsilkfibercanretaintheformoffilamentfiberinthefilamentyarnformedbyclustering,andotherwildsilkfiberscanonlybetransformedintoshortfibersfortextileprocessing.Amongthefilamentyarnsformedbybundlingofmulberrysilkfibersandtussahsilkfibers,thefilamentyarnsofmulberrysilkfibersarethemostimportantandaccountformostofthenaturalfilamentyarns.

Silkstructure

Thesilkwormspitsouttwosilksatthesametime,butaftersolidification,theywillmergetoformacocoonsilk.Thesectionofthecocoonsilkissimilartoglasses.Eachcocoonsilkcontainstwosilkfibersbondedtogetherbysericin,calledsilkfibroin,thatis,non-gluesilkfibers.Ithasacross-sectionalcharacteristicclosetoatriangle,buttheshapeandcross-sectionalareaarenotuniform.

Silkfibroinisalsocalledsilkfibroinfiber,whichisthesilkfiberthatisfinallyused.

Sericinwrapsaroundthesilkfibroinfiber,anditspresencewillhaveanimportantimpactontheuse,processingandproductstyleofthefiber.

Thecontentofsericinoneachcocoonsilkisnotuniform.Thesilkthatisspitouthaslowsericincontent,andthesilkthatisspitoutattheendhasthehighestsericincontent.Silkfiberhasarelativelycompletefibrilstructure,whichcanfullyexpresstheexcellentqualityofnaturalfiber.

Chemicalcomposition

Fibroin(Fibroin;シルクタンパク),alsoknownassilkfibroin.Itisanitrogen-containingpolymercompound,thesinglebaseofitsmacromoleculeisalphaaminoacid.ThegeneralstructuralformulaofαaminoacidisRCH(NH₂)COOH.Becauseitsaminogroupislocatedontheαcarbonatomnexttothecarboxylgrouporcarboxylicacid,itiscalledαaminoacid.Accordingtothegeneralstructuralformulaofsilkfibroinmolecules,thesidegroupsconnectedtodifferentpeptidegroupsintheentiremacromolecularchainaredifferent,whichisanimportantfeatureofnaturalproteinfibers.

Thereare18kindsofaminoacidsthatmakeupsilkfibroin.Thecontentofsilkfibroinisabout70%-80%ofsilk,includingglycine(gly),alanine(ala)andserine(ser).Itaccountsformorethan80%ofthetotalcomposition.

Modification

Althoughsilkfibroinhasmanyexcellentperformances,becausesilkfibroinmoleculescontainacertainamountofhydroxyphenolgroupsandotherThestructureiseasytoabsorbultravioletlightanddenature.Underultravioletlightirradiation,theaminoacidcompositionwillbebrokendown,andthewhitenesswillobviouslydecrease.Withtheincreaseofirradiationtime,theyellowingdegreeofsilkfibroinalsoincreases,especiallyinthepresenceofwater.Moreserious.Mechanicalpropertiesandthermalpropertieshavealsobeengreatlyreduced,whichhasagreatimpactonitsperformance,andsilkfibroinisdifficulttodyeandeasytofade.Inordertoimprovedefects,itmustbemodified.Modificationcanbedonebybiologicalgeneticmethods.Toimprovethespeciesofsilkworms,chemicalandphysicalmethodscanalsobeusedtoimprovethem,usuallychemicalmodificationandpolymerblending.

Man-madefibers

Modernindustrialsilksrarelyhave100%puresilkproducts,mainlyacombinationofnaturalfibers,man-madefibers,andcellulose.

Man-madefibersrefertonon-naturalfibersmadebyphysicalandchemicalmethods,whicharedividedintotwotypes:regeneratedfibersandchemicalfibers.Regeneratedfiberismadeofsomenaturalpolymercompoundsortheirderivativesasrawmaterials,whicharedissolvedintotextilesolution,andthenspunintofibrousmaterials;chemicalfiberismadeofpetroleum,naturalgas,coalandagriculturalandsidelineproductsasrawmaterialsSyntheticfibermade.Man-madefibersareaddedtosilkmainlytomakesilkanti-shrinkage,moth-proof,andeasiertopreserve.

Man-madefibershaveahistoryofonly100years.Beforethat,humanshavereliedonnaturalfiberssuchascotton,wool,silk,andlinentobeusedintextilesandclothingandotherproductionfields.Afterthe1950s,varioussyntheticfiberscameoutsuccessively,inlargequantitiesandlowprices,whichgreatlyenrichedthetotaloutputandscopeofuseoftextilefibersandbecamecompetitorsofnaturalfibers.Therawmaterialofsyntheticfiberispetroleum,buttheearth’spetroleumresourceswillbeexhaustedafter30-50years.Withthecontinuousadvancementofsocialeconomyandthechangeofconsumerconsciousness,inordertocopewiththeoilcrisisandadapttotheglobaltrendofenvironmentalprotectionconcepts,thefiberindustryalsoGraduallymoveclosertothedevelopmentanduseofnaturalfibers.Variousnewtypesoffibershavecomeout,suchasnaturalcoloredcotton,bamboofiber,Lyocellfiber,PLAfiber,soybeanproteinfiber,silkwormpupaproteinfiber,etc.,allofwhichhavethecharacteristicsofnaturalfibers,whicharenotonlyexcellentinperformancebutalsoenvironmentallyfriendly.

Silkcharacteristics

Advantages

First:comfortabletowear.Realsilkiscomposedofproteinfibersandhasgoodbiocompatibilitywiththehumanbody.Inadditiontoitssmoothsurface,itsfrictionalstimulationcoefficienttothehumanbodyisthelowestamongallkindsoffibers,only7.4%.

Second:Goodmoistureabsorptionanddesorption.Silkproteinfiberisrichinmanyhydrophilicgroupssuchasaminegroups(-CONH)andaminogroups(-NH₂),andbecauseofitsporosity,itiseasyforwatermoleculestodiffuse,soitcanbeintheairItabsorbsoremitsmoistureinthemedium,andmaintainsacertainamountofmoisture.Undernormaltemperature,itcanhelptheskinretainacertainamountofmoisturewithoutmakingtheskintoodry;wearinginsummer,itcanquicklydissipatesweatandheatfromthehumanbody,makingpeoplefeelextremelycool.

Silkhasnotonlygoodheatdissipationperformance,butalsogoodwarmthretention.Itsthermalinsulationbenefitsfromtheporousfiberstructure.Therearemanyveryfinefibersinsilkfibers,andthesefinefibersarecomposedofevenfinerfibers.Therefore,morethan38%oftheseeminglysolidsilkisactuallyhollow.Thereisalargeamountofairinthesegaps,whichpreventsthedissipationofheatandmakesthesilkhavegoodwarmthretention.

Third:Soundabsorption,dustabsorption,flameretardant.Silkfabrichasahighporosity,soithasgoodsoundabsorptionandairabsorption,soinadditiontomakingclothing,itcanalsobeusedforinteriordecoration.Becausesilkhasmoistureabsorption,moisturereleaseproperties,moistureretention,airabsorptionandporosity,itcanalsoadjustindoortemperatureandhumidity,andcanabsorbharmfulgases,dust,andmicroorganisms.Inaddition,realsilkfibershavelowthermaldenaturationandarerelativelyheatresistant.Whenheatedto100℃,onlyabout5-8%embrittlement,whilemostsyntheticfibershaveathermaldeflectionthatis4-5timeslargerthanthatofsilk.Theburningtemperatureofsilkis300-400℃,whichisaflame-retardantfiber,whiletheburningtemperatureofsyntheticfiberis200-260℃,whichisflammableandeasytomelt.Therefore,theuseofsilkfiberasarawmaterialforinteriordecorationcannotonlyplayaroleinsoundabsorption,dustabsorption,andheatpreservation,butalsoplayaflameretardantfunction.

Fourth:UVresistance.Thetryptophanandtyrosineinsilkproteincanabsorbultravioletlight,sosilkhasagoodanti-ultravioletfunction.Ultravioletraysareveryharmfultohumanskin.Ofcourse,aftersilkabsorbsultravioletrays,itundergoeschemicalchanges,sothatsilkfabricsarepronetoyellowingundersunlight.

Fifth:healthcare.Thehealthcarefunctionofsilkfiberisirreplaceable.Itcontains18kindsofaminoacidsnecessaryforthehumanbody,whichisalmostthesameastheaminoacidscontainedinhumanskin,soitisalsocalledthe"secondskin"ofhumanbeings.Wearingsilkclothescannotonlypreventultravioletradiation,preventharmfulgasesfrominvading,andresistharmfulbacteria,butalsoenhancethevitalityofskincellsonthebody,promoteskincellmetabolism,andhaveagoodauxiliarytherapeuticeffectoncertainskindiseases.

Disadvantages

Pronetowrinkles,easytosuck,notstrongenough,andfadequickly.

Silkweavingprocess

Silkreeling

Theoriginalsilkreelingmethodistosoakthecocooninahotpotofsoup,drawthesilkbyhand,andwinditinThesilkbasketbecomestherawmaterialforweavingsilk.Basinsandbasketsaretheoriginalsilkreelingequipment.Onesilkwormcocooncandrawoutabout1,000metersofcocoonsilk,andseveralcocoonsilksarecombinedintorawsilk.

Silkreelingisamajorprocessinthesilk-makingprocess.Accordingtoproductspecifications,severalboiledcocoonsilksaredissociatedandcombinedintorawsilkortussahsilk.Therearemanysilkreelingmethods.Accordingtothedifferenceoftheupsanddownsofthecocoonsduringsilkreeling,theycanbedividedintothreetypes:floatingreeling,semi-sinkingreeling,andsinkingreeling.Theupsanddownsofsilkwormcocoonsaremainlydeterminedbytheamountofwaterabsorbedinthecocooncavityafterthecocoonisboiled.Accordingtothedifferenttypesofsilkreelingmachines,itcanbedividedintotwotypes:verticalreelingandautomaticreeling.Accordingtothedifferentperceptiontypesoftheautomaticsilkreelingmachine,itcanbedividedintotwotypes:fixed-grainperceptionreelingandfixed-fibreperceptionreeling.Theprocessofdrawingcocoonsoutofsilkisgenerallyreferredtoassilkreeling.

Weaving

Afterprocessing,rawsilkisdividedintowarpandweft,andtheyareinterwoventoformasilkfabricaccordingtoacertainorganizationallaw.Thisistheweavingprocess.Theproductionprocessofallkindsofsilkfabricsisnotthesame,andcanberoughlydividedintotwotypes:rawweavingandcookedweaving:rawweaving,thatis,thewarpandweftsilksarefirstmadeintofabricswithoutsmeltinganddyeing,whichiscalledgreensilk,andthenthegreensilkissmeltedanddyed.Intothefinishedproduct.Thisproductionmethodhaslowcostandshortprocess,andisthemainmethodusedinsilkproduction.Cookedweavingmeansthatthewarpandweftyarnsaredyedbeforeweaving,andthefinishedsilkdoesnotneedtobedyedtobecomeafinishedproduct.Thismethodismostlyusedintheproductionofhigh-endsilkfabrics,suchasbrocadeandtaffeta.Beforeweaving,preparatoryworkmustbedone,suchasdippingtosoftensericin,doublingandtwistingofsilkthatcanimproveproductperformance,aswellaswarpingandweftrolling.Atthesametime,becausesilkishighlyhygroscopic,itisnecessarytodoagoodjobofpreventingmoisture.Theautomaticloomsusedinsilkweavingproductionmainlyinclude:waterjetloomsusedtoproducesyntheticfiberfilamentfabricsandrapierloomsusedtoproducemulti-colorweftjacquardfabrics.

Dyeingandfinishing

Dyeingandfinishingreferstotheprocessofchemicaltreatmentoftextilematerials(fibers,yarnsandfabrics),whichisalsocommonlyreferredtoasprintinganddyeinginmoderntimes.Dyeingandfinishing,togetherwithspinning,weavingorknittingproduction,formthewholeprocessoftextileproduction.Thequalityofdyeingandfinishinghasanimportantinfluenceontheusevalueoftextiles.Theprocessmainlyincludestherefining,bleaching,dyeing,printingandfinishingofrawsilkandfabrics.

Refined

Silkiscomposedoftwomonofilaments.Themainbodyissilkandtheouterlayeriswrappedwithsericin.Mostofthepigments,oils,waxesandinorganicsaltsarepresentinsericin.Theseimpuritieshaveagreatinfluenceontheeffectofprintinganddyeing,sotheymustberemovedbeforedyeing.Inlong-termpractice,peoplehavemasteredthecharacteristicsofsericinthatiseasilydissolvedinhotwaterundertheactionofchemicalagentsorenzymes,andtakeadvantageoftheweaknessofsericintoputrawsilkorrawsilkintosoap(orsyntheticdetergent)andThemixedsolutionofsodaash(sodiumcarbonate)isheated,andthesericinisheatedandthenhydrolyzed.Aftersuchrefining,thesericinisremovedandthesilkproteinispreserved,andimpuritiessuchaspigments,fats,andwaxesareremoved,soastoobtainsilkproductswithawhitecolor.Degummingisalsocalledrefining,andtherawsilkafterdegummingiscalledcookedsilk.Thedegreeofrawsilkdegummingmustbedeterminedaccordingtoproductionrequirements.

Bleaching

Thedegummedsilkfibershouldbebleachedtoremovenaturalpigments.Otherwise,whendyeinglightcolors,thecolorofthefinishedproductwillchangeduetothepresenceofnaturalpigments.Silkcanbebleachedbyoxidationorreductionofvariousbleachingagents.Therehavebeenreportsontheprocessofbleachingsilkwithhydrogenperoxideinthepresenceofacatalyst.ThioureadioxideisareductivebleachingagentwithlowBODandCODvalues,soitcanbeusedasalow-pollutionnon-toxicbleachingagent.However,comparedwiththesodiumsulfide,althoughitisheavilypolluted,itisstillusedinlargequantities.However,theapplicationofTDUislimitedduetoitshighprice.

Dyeing

Afterrefiningthewhitesilk,itentersthedyeingstage.Dyeingistheprocessofchemicallyreactingdyeswithsilkwormsandsilk,sothatthesilkcanbedyedwithvariouscolors.Sincesilkisaproteinfiber,itisnotalkali-resistant,sodyeingshouldbecarriedoutinanacidicorclosetoneutraldyeingsolution.Themaindyesusedinsilkfabricsare:aciddyes,reactivedyes,directdyesandvatdyes.Thecolordyedwithaciddyesisbrighter.Afterdyeing,itistreatedwithcationicfixingagenttoimprovethewashingfastnessoftheproduct.Reactivedyeshavegoodwashingfastnessonsilk.Thedyeingmethodofthefabricvarieswiththetypeoffabric.Forexample,crepeandgauzefabricsaredyedwithropeoroverflowjetdyeing,andspinning,silk,andsatinfabricsaredyedwithopenwidthhangingorrolldyeing.

Printing

Acolorismonotonousafterall.Inadditiontodyeing,peoplealsouseprintingtechniquestomakesilkcolorful.Printingreferstoaprocessinwhichdyesareprintedonfabricsinaccordancewiththedesignedcolors.Commonlyusedprintingprocessesincludedirectprinting,dischargeprinting,andanti-dyeing.Directprintingmeansthatthecolorpasteisdirectlyprintedonthesilkfabricthroughthescreenprintingplate.Itisoneofthebasicprintingmethodsandcanbeprintedwithavarietyofdyes.Dischargeprinting,alsoknownasengravingprinting,isaprocessofdischargedyeingusingengravingagent.Beforeprintinganddyeing,thesilkisdyedwithaciddyesandreactivedyeswithazostructure,andthenprintedonthecoloredsilkaccordingtothepattern.Theengraving(discharge)pastemadefromtheengravingagentthatdestroysthepigment,aftersteaming,thegroundcoloroftheengravingpastebecomeswhite,whichiscalled"carvingwhite".

Dye-proofprintingistoprintsilkfabricswith"anti-white"pasteor"color-proof"pasteaccordingtothepattern,andthendyeitafterdrying.Becausethepatternparthastheanti-dyeingagentinthe"anti-white"pasteorthe"color-proof"paste,itwillnotbedyed,whiletherestareallcolored.

Finishing

Afterthesilkfabricisrefined,dyed,andprinted,thefinalfinishingworkcanbecarriedoutonthefabric.Thefinishingprocessmainlysolvestheproblemsofdampness,wrinkles,andunevenwidthleftoverfromthepreviousprocesses,highlightsthesoftnessofthesilkfabricitselfandincreasesitswearingfunction,andmainlyadoptstwomethodsofmechanicalfinishingandchemicalfinishing.Mechanicalfinishingincludestenteringfinishing,steamironing,calendering,etc.;chemicalfinishingismainlytoaddchemicalagents,suchassofteners,antistaticagents,fireretardants,sandlotionscomposedofsodaashandtrisodiumphosphate,etc.Soastoachievetheeffectofanti-wrinkle,anti-shrinkage,softnessandthickness.Thetreatedfabricsarenotonlymoresuitableforwearing,buttheconsumptionfieldofsilkisalsobroadened.

Historicalevolution

Initialdevelopment

Inancientlegends,theHuangdi’swifeLeiZuinvented“raisingsericultureforsilk”,butinrealitywhenwassilk?Theinventionisstillcontroversial.

ExpertsspeculatebasedonarchaeologicalfindingsthatinthemiddleoftheNeolithicperiodfivetosixthousandyearsago,Chinabegantoraisesilkworms,takesilk,andweavesilk.WhatreallyshowsthatthesilkwormcocoonsareusedisthehalfofthesilkwormcocoonsexcavatedinXiyinVillage,XiaCounty,ShanxiProvincein1926.AccordingtotheresearchofarchaeologistLiJiandentomologistLiuZhenle,itisdeterminedtobeasilkwormcocoon.Thecocoonshellisabout1.36cmlongand1.04cmwide.Thepartofthecocooniscutawaywithasharpblade.TheageofXiyinVillagewastheYangshaoperiod(about5600-6000yearsago),whichprovidedpeoplewithphysicalobjectstostudytheoriginofsilk.

FourWengcoffinswerefoundattheWanggousiteinXingyang,HenanProvince,whicharesaidtobeabout5,500yearsold.

PeoplehavediscoveredtextiletoolsintheHemudusite,andfromthisitcanbeinferredthattheuseofsilkisatleastnolaterthantheLiangzhuculture.ThemostinfluentialargumentisthearchaeologicaldiscoveryofChinesescientistsin1958,thesilkfabricsoftheDawenkoucultureperiod5300yearsago.

SilkfabrictechnologyhasbeenmonopolizedbyChinaforhundredsofyears.Becauseitsweavingtechnologywasacomplicatedprocessatthattime,andbecauseofitsuniquehandleandluster,itattractedpeople’sattention.Therefore,silkfabricsbecameanindustrialrevolution.Inthepast,theworld'smaininternationaltradematerials.Theearliestsilkfabricscouldonlybeusedbyemperors,buttherapiddevelopmentofthesilkindustryallowedsilkculturetocontinuouslypenetrateintoChineseculturegeographicallyandsocially.Andithasbecomeanindispensablehigh-enditemintheforeigntradeofChinesebusinessmen.

Atfirst,Chinastrictlycontrolledthespreadofsilkweavingandsericulturetechnology,andprohibiteditsflowtoforeigncountries.However,withtheassistanceofChineseimmigrants,NorthKoreasuccessfullyachievedabreakthroughinsericulturetechnologyintheprevious200years.Inaddition,theWesternRegionHetianRiverBasin(thefirst500years-thefirst300years)andIndia(300yearsago)successfullyrealizedsericulture.However,theRomanEmpireonlyobtainedsilkwormeggsanddevelopedsericulturetechnologyinabout550years.

DuringtheShangandZhouDynasties

DuringtheShangDynasty,agriculturehadagreatdevelopment,andthesericultureindustryalsoformedacertainscale.AlthoughthenumberofShangDynastysilkfabricsdiscoveredbyarchaeologyislimited,jacquardsilkfabricshaveappeared,whichshowsthattheweavingtechnologyatthattimehasreachedaconsiderablelevel.

IntheWesternZhouDynasty,therulershadalreadystrictlyorganizedandmanagedtheindustrialproduction,andthesilkproductiontechnologyhadimprovedcomparedwiththeShangDynasty.

TheSpringandAutumnPeriodandtheWarringStatesPeriodwasaperiodoftransitionfromslaverytofeudalisminChinesehistory.Theproductiveforcesandsocio-economicpatternshaveundergonetremendouschanges.Thesericultureandsilkindustryhasalsoreceivedattention,andthedevelopmentofagriculturalmulberryhasbecomeanimportantnationalpolicyfortheprosperityofthecountryandthepeople.

DuringtheWarringStatesPeriod,farmerswhocombinedagricultureandhandicraftsbecamethebasicproductionunitsofsociety,andhandicraftsbecameanimportantpartoftheagriculturaleconomy.Thespecializeddivisionoflaborinsilkproductionismoreobvious,andsometechnologieshavebeenpasseddownfromgenerationtogenerationandhavereachedaveryhighlevel.Silkcanbeproducedinalmostallplaces,andthevarietiesofsilkarealsoabundant,mainlydividedintothreecategories:silk,silk,andbrocade.TheemergenceofbrocadeisanimportantmilestoneinthehistoryofChinesesilk.Itcombinestheexcellentperformanceofsilkwithfineart.Itisnotonlyanobleclothingmaterial,butalsoaworkofart.Ithasgreatlyimprovedtheculturalconnotationandhistoricalvalueofsilkproducts,andhasafar-reachingimpact.Atthistime,ChinesesilkalsospreadtoIndia.TheIndianpoliticianandphilosopherKautilya’s"Politics"(alsotranslatedas"AdministrationoftheState")hasthewordcinapatta,whichmeans"ChinaBundlesofsilk".Inaddition,itcanbeseenfrommanycharactersinSanskritthattheancientIndianpeopleknewmoreaboutsilkthantheGreeksandRomans.Theyknewthatsilkwasspitbyworms,andsilkwasdrawnfromcocoons.

QinandHanDynasties

TheQinandHanDynastieswereaperiodofinitialconsolidationanddevelopmentofChinesefeudalsociety.TheunificationoftheQinandtheestablishmentofacentralizedpowersystemlaidthefoundationfortheprosperityoftheHanDynasty.IntheearlyHanDynasty,thepolicyof"cultivatingwiththepeople"wasimplemented,whichpromotedtherapideconomicdevelopment.Alarge-scalegovernment-runsilkindustrywasestablished,anditsproductsmainlymettheneedsofthecourtandthegovernment;theprivatesilkweavingindustryalsohadagreatdevelopment,andsomeworkshopsformedtheirownproductcharacteristicsandpopularity.ComparedwiththeShangandZhoudynasties,thesilk-producingareasdeveloped.ThefocusofsilkproductionintheWesternHanDynastywasinthemiddleandlowerreachesoftheYellowRiver.StartingfromtheEasternHanDynasty,theShubrocadeinthesouthwesthasbecomeawell-knownsilkproductthroughoutthecountry.

DuringtheQinandHandynasties,notonlydidthesilkweavingindustrygetgreatdevelopment,butwiththelarge-scaleexpansionofChina'sforeigninfluenceintheHanDynasty,thetradeandexportofsilkreachedunprecedentedprosperity.DuringEmperorWuoftheHanDynasty,heattackedtheXiongnuinthenorthandcontrolledtheHexiCorridorleadingtotheWesternRegions.ZhangQianmadetwomissionstotheWesternRegions,connectingtheinlandoftheCentralPlainstotheWesternRegionsandconnectingtheEurasiancontinent.ThepromotionoftradeledtothefurtherdevelopmentofeconomicandculturalexchangesbetweentheCentralPlainsandthefrontiers,Chinaanditsneighborsintheeastandwest,thusformingthefamous"SilkRoad".ThisroadstartsfromChang'an,goesthroughGansuandXinjiangallthewaywest,passesthroughCentralAsiaandWestAsia,andfinallyreachesEurope.InthethirdyearofYuanshuo(126yearsago),underthewestwardpolicyofEmperorWuoftheHanDynasty,ChinesesilkandsilkwerecontinuouslyexportedtoCentralAsia,WestAsiaandEuropethroughtheSilkRoad.AlargeamountofHansilkwasunearthedalongtheSilkRoad.Thefabricwasthephysicalevidenceoftheprosperityofthetradeatthattime.China'ssilkproductiontechnologyalsospreadtoCentralAsiaduringthisperiod.

DuringtheWeiandJinDynasties

DuringtheWei,JinandSouthernandNorthernDynasties,warscontinueduninterrupted,thecountrywasdividedforalongtime,andtheregimechangedfrequently.Severesocialturmoil,complicatedpoliticalstructure,andextensiveinternationalexchangeshavemadesilkproductiondifficulttodevelop,butithasrichconnotationsanddiversefaces.Duringthisperiod,thenorthwasstillthemainproducingareaof​​silkfabrics.ThesilkindustryinChengdu,Sichuanhadalwaysbeendeveloped.DuetotherelevantpoliciesoftheThreeKingdomsperiod,thedevelopmentofthesilkindustryintheJiangnanareamadenewprogress.ItwasfurtherdevelopedthroughthemanagementoftheSouthernDynasty.Afterthemid-generation,theriseofJiangnansilkweavingindustrylaidthefoundation.

Thelong-termwarsintheThreeKingdoms,JinDynasty,andNorthernandSouthernDynastiescausedseriousdamagetotheeconomyoftheYellowRiverBasin.BytheSuiDynasty,thecenterofChina'ssericultureandsilkindustryhadshiftedtotheYangtzeRiverBasin.

TheSuiandTangDynasties

TheSuiandTangDynastieswerethepeakofthedevelopmentofChinesefeudalsociety.Ingeneral,thecountrywasstrong,economicallydeveloped,andbusinessprosperous,especiallytheculturalopeningup.Theeraisgraceful,generous,andeclectic.Thesilkindustryhasalsoseenaclimaxofdevelopmentonthissocialbasis.Atthattime,therewerethreeimportantsilkproducingareas:onewastheYellowRiverBasin,withHebeiandHenanasthemainbody;theotherwastheBashuareaof​​Sichuan,wherethewestofJiannanRoadandShannanRoadcouldbeincludedinthisarea;andthethirdwasthesoutheastareaundertheYangtzeRiver.,Basicallyformingasituationwherethethreepowersstandontopofeachother.AftertheAnshiRebellion,theimportanceoftheJiangnanregionhasgreatlyincreased.Inaddition,thedevelopmentofsilkinthenorthwestregionissecondtononeintheremoteareasandshowsstronglocalcharacteristics.

TheTangDynastywastheheydayofsilkproduction,andtheoutput,qualityandvarietyreachedunprecedentedlevels.Theproductionorganizationofsilkisdividedintothreetypes:courthandicraftindustry,ruralsidelineindustryandindependenthandicraftindustry,andthescaleisgreatlyexpandedcomparedwiththepreviousgeneration.Atthesametime,theforeigntradeofsilkhasalsobeengreatlydeveloped.Notonlyhasthenumberofchannelsonthe"SilkRoad"increasedtothree,butthefrequencyoftradehasalsobeenunprecedentedlyhigh.TheproductionandtradeofsilkmadeahugecontributiontotheprosperityoftheTangDynasty.

ThesilktradeintheTangDynastywasverydeveloped,andtheland-basedsilkcommercialroadsusedaroundaboutroadtothenorth.TheMaritimeSilkRoadalsoemergedduringthisperiod.SilkproductswereexportedtotheKoreanPeninsula,JapanandSoutheastAsia,India,andevenspreadtoEuropebyArabmerchantsthroughtheEastChinaSeaLineandtheSouthChinaSeaLine.Theprosperityofthesilktradeledtothespreadofsilktechnology.Bythe7thcentury,silkproductionstartedfromJapanintheeast,Europeinthewest,andIndiainthesouthwest,whichbasicallylaidthefoundationforthepatternofsilkproductionareasinthefuture.

TheTwoSongDynasties

IntheSongDynasty,withtheadvancementofsericulturetechnology,Chinesesilkhadashortperiodofglory.Notonlyhasthevarietyofsilkpatternsincreasedsignificantly,especiallythreedistinctivenewvarietiesofsilkbrocade,silkandgold-decoratedfabricshaveappeared,andagreatbreakthroughhasbeenmadeinthesummaryandpromotionofsericultureproductiontechnology.

TheYellowRiverBasin,JiangnanregionandSichuanregionwereimportantproducingareasforsilkproductionintheNorthernSongDynasty.ThefocusofproductioninthemiddleandlatestageshasbeenshiftedtotheJiangnanregion,buttheNorthstillmaintainsanadvantageintheproductionofhigh-endsilkfabrics.IntheSouthernSongDynasty,thesilkproductionareaswerebasicallyconcentratedintheYangtzeRiverBasin,andthesilkproductioninthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhadanabsoluteadvantage.Zhejianghasbecomeaveritable"SilkHouse".LiaobegantodevelopsericultureandsilkproductionaftercapturingthesixteenstatesofYanyun.AlthoughthesilkindustryintheJinDynastyruledareawasdestroyed,italsomaintainedacertainscale.

TheofficialsilkproductionworkshopsoftheSongDynastywereofconsiderablescale.TheLingjinInstitute,theDyeingInstitute,theWensiInstituteandtheWenxiuInstituteweresetupunderthesupervisionoftheShaofuSupervisioninthecapital.Atthesametime,government-runweavingwasalsosetupinimportantsilkproductionareas.mechanism.TheAyaNishikiInstituteinTokyohadmorethan400loomsduringtheJinzongperiod,andtheannualoutputofRunzhouweavingandLuowuwas10,000horses.Wuzhou,theemergingcenterofsilkweavingindustry,isknownasthe"clothingworld".IntheTaihuLakeBasin,"thecocoonstandsonthemountain,andthesoundofthecarriageisheard".ThefolksilkweavingindustryintheSongDynastywasverydeveloped.Inadditiontobeingatraditionalhandicraftindustryinruralareas,alargenumberofsilkweavingworkshopsemergedincities,andthepowerofprivatemachineoperatorscontinuedtogrow.Intermsofforeigntrade,duetotheinterruptionoftheSilkRoadontheland,themaritimesilktradehasmadeconsiderableprogress.China'srawsilkandsilkareexportedtoallpartsoftheworldthroughtheMaritimeSilkRoad.

YuanDynasty

BeforeunifyingChina,therulersoftheYuanDynastyadjustedtheireconomicpoliciesandpaidattentiontotheprotectionofproductivityandmeansofproduction.Theofficialestablishmentoftheagriculturalmanagementagency-theDepartmentofAgriculture,toguideandsuperviseagriculturalproduction;thefirstofficialagriculturalbook"AgriculturalMulberryCollection"inhistorywasalsoissuednationwidetopromoteadvancedproductiontechnology;Agriculturalproductionandsocialeconomyhaverecoveredanddevelopedrelativelyquickly.Westernastronomy,calendar,arithmetic,andmedicinewereintroducedtoChina,andChinesecompasses,gunpowder,andprintingwerealsospreadabroad.TheculturalexchangesbetweenChinaandforeigncountriesandthepoliticalsituationofunificationhavepromotedtheimprovementofsilktechnology.ThenorthernsilkindustryinthelowerreachesoftheYellowRiverhasrebounded,thedivisionoflaborinsilkproductionhasbeenmeticulous,andtheweavingtechnologyhasimproved;inthesouthofthemiddleandlowerreachesoftheYangtzeRiver,thepositionofthecenterofgravityofsilkproductionhasbeenfurtherconsolidatedandimproved.

Sincethemid-YuanDynasty,thepatternofproductionareashasundergonemajorchanges.Silkproductioninthenorthhasdeclined,andtheJiangnanareahasbecomemoreimportant.Thereasonisthat,ontheonehand,thecolderclimatemakesthenorthunsuitableforsericultureproduction;ontheotherhand,theplantingofcottonalsomakesthesericultureindustrytendtobeconcentrated.Thehugegovernment-runweavingsystemwasanimportantfeatureofsilkproductionintheYuanDynasty,andithadacertaininhibitoryeffectonfolksilkproduction.

MingDynasty

DuetothebuddinganddevelopmentofcapitalismintheMingDynasty,theproductionandtradeofsilkhavealsoundergonemajorchanges:thecommercializationtrendofsilkproductionhasbecomemoreandmoreobvious.Overseastradehasdevelopedrapidly.TheSuhuareainthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhasbecomethemostimportantsilkproducingarea.Anumberoftypicalsilkspecializedtownshavebeendeveloped,andtheofficialweavinghasbecomeincreasinglymature.Atthistime,thedevelopmentofChinesesilkhasreacheditsmostactiveperiod.

AtthebeginningoftheMingDynasty,thepolicyoffocusingonthedevelopmentofreclamation,constructionofwaterconservancyandrevitalizationofagriculturewasadopted,whichchangedthestatusofhandicraftslavesintheYuanDynastyandgreatlyliberatedthelaborproductivity.Inadditiontotakingturnsonaregularbasis,hereditaryhandicraftsmencanmaketheirownhandicraftsandsellthemonthemarketmostofthetime,whilealsoreducingcommercialtaxes.Therestorationofagriculture,handicraftsandcommercehaspromotedtheprogressanddevelopmentofsericultureandsilkproductiontechnology.ManybooksofhighacademicvaluehavebeenpublishedintheMingDynasty.Forexample,LiShizhen’s"CompendiumofMateriaMedica"hasmadeascientificclassificationofmulberryvarieties;XuGuangqi's"NongzhengQuanshu"in"SericultureChapter"hasacomprehensivediscussiononsericultureproduction;SongYingxing's"HeavenlyCreations"wasthemostimportantworkonsilkproductionatthattime.

IntheearlyMingDynasty,aseriesofmeasureswereadoptedtoemphasizeagricultureandthrift.Theproductionareaof​​sericultureandsilkindustryhasbeenreduced,butaregionalintensiveproductioncenteredonthesouthoftheYangtzeRiverhasbeenformed.JiaandHuarethefivemajorsilktowns.Afterthemid-MingDynasty,thesocialatmospheregraduallybecameextravagant.Undertheconditionsofcommodityeconomyandprofessionaldivisionoflabor,thesilkindustryandcommerceintheJiangnanregionenjoyedgreatprosperity.

Thegovernment-runweavingindustryintheMingDynastywasrelativelylarge.InadditiontotheestablishmentofcentraldyeingandweavinginstitutionsinNanjingandBeijing,localweavinganddyeingbureauswereestablishedinSuzhou,Hangzhou,andmorethan20placesacrossthecountry.,Tosupplythehorsesneededbythecourtandthegovernmenteveryyear.Therearetwotypesofproductionmethods,"localweaving"andoutgoing"collarweaving".Localweavingisashiftservicesystem,andthecollarweavingisaprivatemachine.ThepersonalattachmentofcraftsmenislooserthanthatoftheYuanDynasty.

Silkproductsflowedintoneighboringcountriesandregionsintheformofroyalrewards.Afterthemid-MingDynasty,thegovernmentsetup"Shibosi"inGuangzhou,Quanzhou,Ningboandotherplaces.ChineserawsilkandsilkweresoldinlargequantitiestoJapanandtoEuropeviaMacau.

DuringtheQingDynasty

IntheearlyQingDynasty,thesilkindustrysufferedheavylossesinthewar.TheKangxiperiodadoptedencouragementmeasures,andsilkproductiondevelopedrapidly,anditwasfurtherconcentratedintheTaihuLakeareaandthePearlRiverDelta.Inparticular,theJiangnanareabecamethecenterofthenationalsilkindustryintermsofscaleandlevel.

TheQingDynastygovernment-runweavingsystemabolishedtheMingDynastycraftsmanshipsystem,andtherawmaterialswerealsomainlypurchased.TheoverallscalewasreducedcomparedwiththeMingDynasty.TheimportantonesareJiangningWeavingBureau,SuzhouWeavingBureauandHangzhouWeavingBureau,Collectivelyknownas"JiangnanThreeWeaving",responsibleforsupplyingallkindsofsilkfabricsneededbythecourtandgovernment.Theproductionscaleoftheprivatesilkweavingindustryhasexpanded,andtheprofessionalandregionaldivisionoflaborhasbecomemoreobvious.Anumberofprosperoussilkprofessionaltownshaveemergedwithawidevarietyofproductsandaprosperousdomesticmarket.Intermsofforeigntrade,seabanshavebeenstrictlyenforced,therestrictionsonforeigntradehavebeenstrengthened,andone-portcommercehasbeenimplemented.Nevertheless,China'srawsilkexportstoJapanandrawsilkandsilkfabricsexportstoEuropeancountrieshavestillreachedaconsiderablescale.

InthelateQingDynasty,China'ssilkindustryfellintoaverysadsituationunderthedoubleblowofheavytaxesandforeigndumping.

DuringtheRepublicofChina

The"IndustrialPlan"formulatedbySunYat-senlisted750,000tonsofcocoons,71,000tonsofsilk,and1.125billionmetersofsilkaccordingtotheneedsof450millionpeopleinChinaatthattime.“Improvethesilkindustrytoincreaseproduction”,“researchthespinningmethodstoocarefully,andimprovethetypes,varieties,qualityandcolorofsilk”inthe"People’sLivelihood",sothat"China’ssilkindustrycanOnlythroughgradualprogresscanwecompetewithforeigncountries.Mr.Zhongshansaid,"IfChina’smulberryleaves,silkwormeggsandsilkqualityarenotimproved,ortheoldlawsarenotimproved,China’ssilkindustrywillnotonlyfail.Thewarningof"elimination"becametheconsensusofthenationalsilkindustryatthattime.Manypeopleofinsightrushedtocallfor"industrytosavethecountry",requestingtheestablishmentofsilktechnicalschools,thedevelopmentofsilkproduction,andtheincreaseofsilkexports.Atthattime,someindustrialistsrespondedpositively,andthegovernmentalsoresponded.Withcertainsupport,theproductiontechnologyofmulberrysericulture,silkwormreelingandsilkweavinghasbeenimproved.Silkhasbecomeanimportantmaterialforthecountry’sforeignexports,accountingformorethan20%ofthecountry’stotalexportvalueatthattime.(1937),whentheWarofResistanceAgainstJapanbegan,theJapaneseimperialistsinvadedandoccupiedChina'smainsilkproducingareassuchasJiangsu,Zhejiang,Shandong,andGuangdong,plunderingsilkresourcesandunderminingChina'ssilkproduction.Inthe34thyearoftheRepublicofChina(1945),afterthevictoryoftheAnti-JapaneseWarSoonafterthecivilwarbetweentheKuomintangandtheCommunistParty,theproductionandexportofcocoonsilkwasthelowestpointintheRepublicofChinainthe38thyearoftheRepublicofChina(1949),andtheentiresilkindustrywasdying.

Moderndevelopment

Domesticdevelopment

Inthetenyearsfrom1980to1990,China'srawsilkproductionincreasedfrom36,000tonsto57,000tons,andtheoutputofsilkfabricsmorethandoubled;theconsumptionofsilkfabricsItalsoincreasedfrom400millionmetersto1.22billionmeters.Therawsilkexportsaccountedformorethan80%oftheworld’srawsilktradevolume,andsilksandsatinalsoaccountedforabout50%.Theyhaveregainedthedominantpositionintheworldsilkmarket,andthesilkindustryhasbecomethecountry’smainstayofforeignexchangeearnings.Industry,arelativelycompletesilkindustrysystemhasbeenestablished,andsilkproductsaresoldinmorethan100countriesandregions.

WiththecontinuousadvancementofthetechnologicallevelofChina’ssilkindustry,thepaceoftechnologicalinnovationhasalsobeenaccelerated,especiallyforcomputers,E-commerceplatformsandmoderninformationprocessinghavebeenfullyutilizedinalldirections.Themosttypicalexampleisthatthepopularizationofcomputershascompletelyeliminatedthecenturies-oldverticalreelingmachine,whichhasgreatlyimprovedtheautomaticreelingofthesilkindustry.Thelevelofsilk.Theuseofcomputermonitoringandauxiliarymeanscanfullyrealizethesmall-batch,multi-varietybusinessmodel.Mechatronicshasbecomethemainfeatureofthedevelopmentofinternationaltextilemachinery.AlmostalljacquardmachinesandlargecircularknittingmachineshavebeeninstalledwithelectronicjacquardInstallation.

Thereliabilityofsilkproductionequipmentisthecruxofthegapbetweendomesticequipmentandtheadvancedlevelofforeigncountries.Domesticsalesofdomestictextileequipmentisonlyabout10,000units.However,accordingtoconservativeestimates,China’stextileindustrytextileseveryyear.Thedemandforequipmentisashighas20,000to30,000units.

Inthefieldofrawmaterialapplication,Chinesescientificresearchhasmaderemarkableachievements,suchasdecipheringthemysteryofthesilkwormgenome,successfullycultivatingnaturalcolorcocoons;overcomingthedifficultiesofautomaticsilkreelingandvacuuminfiltrationcocooncookingtechnology;fullymasteredTheultra-microstructureofsilkfiber;thein-depthstudyonthetensilepropertiesofthesilkwormsilkformedbyforcedtractionandtheresults;theextractionofsericinandsilkfibroinfromtheby-productsofsilkproductionhasbeenpromotedandapplied;thesuccessfuldevelopmentofthesilk/mulberryelasticsilkandbulkNewfull-silkdifferentiatedtextilematerialssuchasstretchsilk;electronicspinningmethodtopreparesilkfibroinfunctionalnanofibers;newenvironmentally-friendlydyeingmaterials,auxiliariesandsupportingprocessesforsilkhavecomeoutoneafteranother.

Intermsoffabricstructure,phasedresultshavebeenachievedintacklingsilkproblemssuchasanti-wrinkle,anti-shrinkage,andanti-fading,andhavebeenappliedtoheavysilk,realsilkgeorgette,artificialsilk,chemicalfibersilk,andcomputerembroidery.Velvet,etc.,doubletheaddedvalueoftheproduct.

Thecompositeofsilktextiletechnologyhasalsomadecontinuousprogress,whichmainlyreflects:thecompositetechnologyandprocessingtechnologyofchemicalfibers;theblendingandcompositeofnaturalfibers;thecompositeofnaturalfibersandchemicalfibers;multiplefunctionalfinishingThecomposite;thecompositeofavarietyoffabrics,suchasdouble-layerpastecomposite,inlaycompositecomposite,sandwichcomposite,etc.

TheadvantagesandgapsofChina'ssilkindustrycoexist.Chinesesilkexportcompaniescompeteforinternationalmarketsharemainlythroughvolumegrowth,whichhasexacerbatedthepricechaosinthedomesticsilkmarkettoacertainextent.Asexportpriceshavebeendecliningyearafteryear,theexportpricesofsilkandsilksandsatinarenowonly50-60%ofwhattheyweretenyearsago.Infact,China'ssilkandsilkexportshavelongbeentrappedinaviciouscircleofrisingpricesandfallingprices.AlthoughChina'ssilkindustryhasverygoodfavorableconditionsfortheproductionandsupplyofrawmaterials,therehasneverbeenabrandwithahighreputationandaconsiderablemarketshareintheworld.TheinternationalobjectiveevaluationofChinesesilkisstillstuckinChina.OnlyafterfinishinginItalyorfinishinginFrancecanitbelistedinhigh-endfashionapparel.

Forthisreason,since2002,theChinaNationalSilkAssociationbegantopayattentiontotheapprovalandregistrationofhigh-endsilkmarks.Onthisbasis,in2004,thedomesticsilkindustrylistedfivebrandsofall-silksilkproductsasChina'sfamousbrands,andgrantedthefirstbatchof17enterprisestherighttousehigh-endsilklogos.Theimplementationandpromotionofthehigh-endsilklogoindicatesthattheproductsofChinesesilkenterprisesareenteringanewperiodofsublimationfromcheaplow-gradeproductstohigh-endindustrialchainfields.

In2010,thenationalmulberryorchardareareached12.03millionmu,theoutputofsilkwormcocoonswas649,000tons,andtheoutputofrawsilkwas162,000tons,anincreaseof3.7%,5.4%and30.4%respectivelyover2005.Duringthe"TwelfthFive-YearPlan"period,China'saverageannualsilkwormcocoonoutputhasstabilizedatabout650,000tons,thetotaloutputofsilkandsilkflossproductshasreachedmorethan120,000tons,theeconomicincomeofsericulturehasexceeded20billionyuan,andthetotaloutputvalueofthesilkindustryhasreachedmorethan200billionyuan.Theexportofrealsilkproductsremainedabove3.5billionU.S.dollars.By2015,energyconsumptionperunitvalueaddedinthefieldsofcocoondryingandsilkprintinganddyeingwillbereducedbymorethan20%comparedtotheendofthe"EleventhFive-YearPlan"period,andwaterconsumptionperunitvalueaddedinthesilkindustrywillbereducedbymorethan30%.Thecomprehensiveutilizationrateofwasteisincreasedtomorethan80%.

Internationaldevelopment

1.Industrialadjustmentchangesthepatternofsilkproduction

1.Gradienttransferofcocoonsilkproduction

Fromtheperspectiveoftotalvolume,China,India,Brazil,Vietnam,Thailandandotherdevelopingcountrieshavedevelopedrapidly,whiledevelopedcountriessuchasItaly,France,Japan,andSouthKoreahaveexperiencedsharpdeclines.

2.Silkproductiontendstobemulti-polarized

Thereare65countriesandregionsintheworldwithsilkproduction,ofwhichtherearenearly40ofacertainscale,occupyingtheworld’ssilkproductionThereareaboutl0ofcertainstatus.Astheworld'slargestsilkindustryinChina,theannualoutputofsilkwormcocoonsreached440,000tons.Thehighestyearreached700,000tons,accountingforabout70%oftheworld'stotaloutput.TheproductionofcocoonandsilkinIndiahasdevelopedrapidlyandhasreplacedJapanasthesecondlargestsilkproducerintheworld.Thailand,Vietnam,Brazil,Malaysiaandothercountriesalsoattachgreatimportancetoinvestmentinthesericultureindustryandhaveadoptedaseriesofmeasurestopromotethedevelopmentoftheirownsericultureindustry.

Second,technologicalinnovationguidesthetrendofsilkconsumption

1.Intensificationofproductiontechnology

JapaneseresearchershavedevelopedsterilesilkproductiontechnologyanddevelopedtofuThelow-costartificialfeedwithslagasthemainingredientbreakstheseasonalproductionpatternofsericultureforthousandsofyears,andthecocoonsproducedhavetheadvantagesofgoodwhiteness,highsilkyield,anddirectsilkreeling.Atthesametime,countriesaroundtheworlduseadvancedtechnologytoproduce"clonedsilkworms",aswellasgenetransplantationtechnologies,newproteinmaterials,andartificialjet-spunsilkworms,whichwillsurelyreplacetraditionalcocoonproductionmethods.

Intermsofindustrialproduction,developedcountriessuchasJapan,Germany,Italy,andSouthKoreahaveusedtheircomprehensivetechnologicaladvantagestocontinuouslyinnovateinthedeepprocessingtechnologyofsilkproductsandareinaleadingpositionintheinternationalmarket.TheUnitedStates,Switzerland,Spain,etc.havestrongstrengthinthedevelopmentoffilamentfiberrawmaterialsandsilktechnologyandequipment,leadingthedevelopmenttrendofnewsilktechnologyinthe21stcentury.Inadditiontoretainingsometraditionalcraftsmanshipinmanycountries,productioncraftscontinuetoevolveinatechnology-intensivedirection,towardautomation,high-speed,andelectronicdevelopment.

2.Thediversificationofsilkproducts

Thedevelopmenttrendofnewinternationalsilktechnologyistogohandinhandinthefieldsofclothingindustry,decoration,military,cosmetics,medicalandotherfields.Japan,Italy,theUnitedStatesandotheradvancedsilkproducingcountrieshavemademajorbreakthroughsinthecomprehensiveutilizationofsilk.Forexample,theapplicationanddevelopmentofextremelyfineandextra-thicknesssilkwormspecies,silkisinaleadingpositioninthefieldsoffood,cosmetics,medicineandsoon.Japanalsousessilkwormcocoonsandsilktodevelopcardecorationmaterials,contactlenses,andartificialskin.Atthesametime,realsilk,rayon,andsyntheticfibersarediversified,andvariousrawmaterialsareblendedandcovered,makingthetypesoffibersmorediverse.

3.Fashionablewearability

Silkproductsarecloselyrelatedtofashiontrendsintermsoffabrics,textures,patternsandstyles.Thenewlydevelopedelasticfiber,TenceIfiber,realsilkinvisibleprinting,silkartworkandsooninthesilkscienceandtechnologyindustryallrepresentthefashion,fashionandenvironmentalprotectiontrendsofthesilkindustry.Forexample,knitwearblendedwithsilkandcashmerehasmadeabigsplashintheinternationalmarket.TheblendedsilkandcashmerehasgreatlyimprovedthefunctionofknittedfashionandhasbecomeanewfavoriteoffashionfavoredbycustomersinWesternEuropeandNorthAmerica.Majorbreakthroughshavebeenmadeinthetechnicalresearchanddevelopmentofnewfunctionalsilkfabrics,whichconformtothedevelopmenttrendofdiversification,compositeandfashionablesilkproductsintheinternationalmarket,andpromotetheupgradingofsilkproducts.

3.Squeezethemarkettointensifysilktradecompetition

Withtheincreaseoftheworld’spopulation,theadjustmentofthesilkindustrystructureandtechnologicalinnovation,aswellasthedeepeningofpeople’sunderstandingofnaturalsilkproducts,Silkconsumptionwillcontinuetogrowsteadily.However,withtheintegrationoftheglobaleconomyandChina'saccessiontotheWTO,competitioninthesilkmarketwillbecomeincreasinglyfierce.

1.Silktradebarriersrestrictfaircompetition

Fromtheperspectiveoftheentiretextileindustry,silkexportshaverelativelyfewtradebarriersandtheexportenvironmentisrelativelyloose,buttheyhavealsobeensubjecttoquotas,tariffs,etc.Restrictionsontradebarriers.Atthesametime,duetotheimpactoftextiletradebarriers,theexportofcross-productsinterwovenwithtextilematerialssuchasrealsilk,cottonandlinenhasbeengreatlyrestricted.TheEuropeanUnionandtheUnitedStatesarethemainsalesmarketsforChinesesilk.Inordertoresistalargeamountoflow-pricedChinesesilkandsilkapparelimportsandavoidanimpactonthesilkcirculationindustry,theEUandtheUnitedStatesbegantoimposequotarestrictionsonChinesesilkandapparelimportsin1994.Since1998,althoughEuropeandtheUnitedStateshavecancelledsomequotasforChinesesilkproducts,certainrestrictionsarestillimposed.Inordertoprotectitsowninterests,JapanhasimposedthemostrestrictionsontheimportofChinesesilkproducts.Withthepopularityofsilk-linen,silk-cottonandotherblendedfabricapparelintheinternationalmarket,theimpactoftextilequotarestrictionsontheexpansionofsilkapparelproductsandmarketspacehasbecomemoreandmoreobvious.

2.Countrieshavesqueezedintotheinternationalsilkmarket

Silkconsumptionspreadsallovertheworld.ChinaandBrazilarethemainexportsuppliersofcocoonsandrawsilkintheworldsilkmarket.China,Japan,SouthKorea,India,Thailandisthemainexportsupplierofsilkfabricsintheworld,whileChina,JapanandSouthKoreaarealsothemainexportsuppliersofsilkapparelintheworldsilkmarket.ThereisalmostnosericultureindustryinFrance,Italy,Germany,Switzerland,andHongKong,China.Theymainlyimportrawsilkandsilkandotherrawmaterialsafterdeepprocessingfordomesticandforeignconsumption.TheUnitedStates,Australia,NewZealand,SaudiArabiaandsomeNorthAmericancountriesdirectlyimportsilkproductsfordomesticconsumption.Withtherecoveryandgrowthoftheworldeconomy,countrieshaveaimedattheglobalsilkmarketandstrivedtoexpandtheirsilkproductexports.TheriseanddevelopmentofsilkproducingcountriessuchasIndiaandVietnamwillfurthersqueezetheinternationalmarketshare.SouthKorea,Italy,GermanyandothercountriesusetheirtechnologicaladvantagestoimportcocoonsilkrawmaterialsfromChina,Japan,andBrazil,andthenexportthemtodevelopedcountriessuchastheUnitedStatesafterprocessing.TheyhavebecomeChina'sstrongestcompetitorsinsilkgarmentexports.

Industryprospects

China'ssilkindustryisdevelopingrapidly,andsilkproductionranksfirstintheworld.Amongthem,cocoonsilkandsilksatincandominateinternationalmarketproductionandpricetrends.TheindustriesaremainlydistributedinJiangsu,Zhejiang,Guangdong,Guangdong,Shandong,Anhui,andSichuan.Thesynergybetweenindustriesindifferentregionsneedstobeimproved.Duringthe"EleventhFive-YearPlan"period,boththeoutputvalueandsalesscaleofChina'ssilkindustryhaveachievedsubstantialgrowth.Byacceleratingstructuraladjustmentandindustrialupgrading,stabilizingthetraditionalexportmarket,andactivelyopeningupthedomesticmarket,theconnectionbetweenproductionandsaleshascontinuedtoimprove,thequalityandefficiencyoftheindustry'soperationhaveimprovedsignificantly,thedevelopmenthasbeenstable,andthemomentumhasbeengood.

Thedemandforhealthy,functionalandpersonalizedsilkproductscontinuestoincrease.Itcanbeseenthattheinherentadvantagesofsilkfibersaregraduallybeingre-recognizedbymodernpeople.Thedomesticsilkmarketwithapopulationof1.3billionhashugepotentialfordevelopment.

AlthoughChina’ssilktradeaccountedfor80%oftheworld’stotal,theproportionofexportsdroppedfrom3.4%in1985to0.19%in2011.ThisshowsthatChinaisabigsilkcountrybutnotnecessarilyasilkpower..Chinaistheworld'slargestsilkproducerandexporter.China'srawsilkproductionaccountsformorethan70%oftheworld'stotalproduction,anditsexportvolumeaccountsformorethan80%oftheworld'stotaltrade.Increasingthetechnologicalcontentofsilkproducts,developingnewsilkproducts,andsatisfyingtheconsumerdemandofemergingconsumersisaninevitabletrendforthegrowthofinternationalsilkconsumptioninthefuture.

ThedevelopmentmomentumofChina'scocoonandsilkindustryisgood.In2010,thenationalmulberryorchardareareached12.031millionmu,theoutputofsilkwormcocoonswas649,000tons,andtheoutputofrawsilkwas152,000tons,anincreaseof3.7%,5.4%and30.4%respectivelyover2005.

Silkculture

Overview

SilkisasymbolofancientChinesecultureandhasmadeanindeliblecontributiontothedevelopmentofhumancivilizationintheworld.Chinesesilkisfamousallovertheworldforitsexcellentquality,exquisitepatternsandrichculturalconnotations.Thousandsofyearsago,silkpassedfromChang'antoEuropealongtheSilkRoad.Itbroughtnotonlypiecesofgorgeousclothingandaccessories,butalsotheancientandsplendidcivilizationoftheEast.Sincethen,silkhasalmostbecomeThecommunicatorandsymbolofEasterncivilization.

Fourfamousembroidery

Threefamousbrocades

Emperor'sclothing

Chinaisacountryofetiquetteandancientclothes.Toacertainextent,thedevelopmentofChinesesilkisalsoamicrocosmoftheHuanghuangetiquettesystem.ItcanbesaidthatancientChineseclothingisoneofthetoolsoftheetiquettesystemof"differentiatingrespectandinferiority",andisamaterializedexpressionofthefeudalpatriarchalsystem.

Thecostumeswornbyancientemperorshavespecialmarkings,andaformalcostumesystemisneededtoprovideforthem,andtheymustbestrictlyenforced.Fromtheshapeandcoloroftheclothestothelengthofthesilkthreadandthematerial,theyareallrelatedtoetiquette.Therefore,imperialcostumesaretheyardstickandcornerstoneoftheentirecostumesystem.

"Standard"specialemperorcostumesappearedintheWesternZhouDynasty.Atthattime,therulershadstrictregulationsontheclothingwornbyallkindsofpeople,andtheywereincludedinthecategoryof"ZhouLi".Hierarchyisveryobvious,andarroganceisnotallowed.Thedevelopedtextile,printinganddyeingproductiontechnologyatthattimeprovidedasolidmaterialfoundationfortheZhouDynastytoestablishaperfectclothingsystem.InordertoconsolidatetheWesternZhouregime,ZhouGongdan,whoassistedtheking,formulatedacompletesteppedpatriarchalhierarchicalsystemtoclearlyindicatethattheupperandlowergarmentsoftheofficialposition,thepublicservantsgoingout,andthedescendantsofYanjuweredifferent.Theform,texture,color,pattern,andornamentsofthecrownwerespecifiedindetailandbecameanimportantcontentoftheruleofritualintheZhouDynasty.

"TheBookofChanges"contains:"TianXuan(skyblue)andgroundyellow(earthcolor)."ZhouTianziwearsmysteriousclotheswhenhesacrificestothesky.Theblackreferstoblackwithredandyellowcolors.,XuanYiisablackfabrictop,andChangisared-yellowbottomChang.Thecoatispaintedwithsixchapters:sun,moon,star,mountain,dragon,andChineseinsects.Itissimilartomodernhand-paintedclothing.Itispainteddirectlyontheclothbythepainterwithpen,inkandpigment;Therearesixchaptersincluding,fenmi,黼,黻,atotaloftwelvechaptersofpatternsandpatterns.

Beforetheweek,thecostumesoftheemperorswereembroideredwiththeabove-mentionedtwelvechapterpatterns.IntheZhouDynasty,becauseofthepatternsofthesun,moon,andstarsonthebanners,thecostumeswerenolongerrepeatedandchangedtotwelvechapters.Forninechapters.Theorderofornamentationisheadedbydragon,dragon,mountain,flower,insect,fire,andZongyiarehand-painted;algae,ricenoodles,millet,andmilletareallrustedup.Thesubsequentdynastiesbasicallycontinuedthetraditionalpatternofthetwelvechapters.ThetwelvechaptersgraduallybecamethespecialdecorationsoftheemperorsofthepastdynastiesinChina.ItwasasymbolofancientChineseroyalpower.ThedragonandphoenixinChapterTwelvearegraduallydedicatedtotheemperor.Thedragonbecomesthesymboloftheemperor,andthephoenixis​​therepresentativeofthesupremewoman.

Officials'supplementaryclothing

AmongtheancientChineseclothingsystems,thebestreflectionofthecloserelationshipbetweensilkandthefeudalhierarchyisthesupplementaryclothingofthecivilandmilitaryofficials.Mendingclothingisakindofofficialclothesdecoratedwiththeemblemofgrade,orcalledmendinggown,whichisdifferentfromotherofficialclothes.Themaindifferenceisthatthefrontandbackofhiscostumeareeachembossedwithatonicofthesameform,contentandmeaning.Therefore,aslongasyoulookatthepatternonthetonic,youcanknowtherankandtasteoftheperson,whichisabitsimilartotherankoftoday'smilitaryofficer.

TheoriginoftoniccanbetracedbacktotheTangDynasty,anditsoriginseemstoberelatedtoWuZetian'suseofrobepatternstodeterminegrades."TaiPingYuLan"vol.692quotes"TangShu":"TheEmpressWucameoutwithascarletpurplesingleLuoMinglapelbackrobetobestowcivilandmilitaryministers,andtheirrobesaredifferent....Theprimeministerdecoratedthewindpond,andtheShangShudecoratedForthewildgoose,theleftandrightguardsaredecoratedwithaunicorn,andtheleftandrightguardsaredecoratedwithapairoftigers."

TheYuanDynastystonecarvingsunearthedfromtheYangqunTempleinInnerMongoliahaveflower-patternedtonics.Atthesametime,theyarefoundinsomeYuanDynastytombs.Indeed,manyYuandynastyfabricsintheformofsquarepadswerediscovered.However,thesecostumesdidnotappearassupplementaryclothes,andtheseFangsupplementsweremostlyflower-shaped,andtheywerenotusedasasymbolofofficialrankatthetime.

ThereplenishmentservicethattrulyrepresentstheofficialpositionwasfinalizedintheMingDynasty.Accordingtotherecordsof"MingHistory·YufuZhi",inthetwenty-fourthyearofHongwu(1391),theofficialuniformwasalargerobewithacollar,asquarepatchonthechestandback,andthecivilofficialembroideredabirdtoshowcivilization.Themilitaryattacheembroideredthebeasttodemonstratethemartialarts.

JudgingfromtheofficialsupplementsunearthedandhandeddownintheMingDynasty,therearethreemethodsofmakingbrocade,embroideryandtapestry.Earlyofficialsupplementswererelativelylargeandwell-made.Civilservantsuseddoublebirdstoaccompanythem,whilemilitaryofficersusedsinglebeasts,eitherstandingorsquatting.IntheQingDynasty,onlyasinglestandingpoultrywasusedasatonicforcivilofficials,andthegradeswereslightlydifferent.

ValueSignificance

Chinaisthehometownofsilk.SilkisoneoftheimportantcharacteristicsofChinesecivilization.IthasalottodowithChina’setiquettesystem,cultureandart,customs,andscienceandtechnology.Link.Theemperorusedsilktodemonstratehisauthority,andhundredsofofficialsusedsilktomarktheirranks;literatiwrotepoemspraisingsilk,andpainterssplashedinkonsilkmadeofsilk;ordinarypeopleworshipedvarioussilkwormgodsandprayedforarichsilk,whilethecourtdidGiveaclasstopersuadethesericulture,andusethistoevaluatetheperformanceofthelocalofficials.Twoofthefourgreatinventionsaredirectlyrelatedtosilk.Theoriginalmeaningof"paper"istheaccumulationofvelvetsilkintheprocessofmakingsilkfloss.Theinventionofprintingisdirectlyrelatedtoletterpressprintingonsilk.TheprintedsilkfabricsunearthedfromtheHantombofMawangduihavebeenoverprintedinlargeareasandarenearlyathousandyearsearlierthantheofficialTangDynastyengravingprints.Therefore,itcanbesaidthatthereliefprintingonsilkistheoriginatorofengravingprinting.Inaddition,thedevelopmentoftheMaritimeSilkRoaddirectlypromotedthepracticeandimprovementofthecompass.

Silkisnotonlyasimpleandexpensiverawmaterialforclothing,ithasalsoplayedanimportantcurrencyfunctionforalongtimeinhistory.ForChina,“silk”isnotonlyacommodity,butthecurrencyitself.Itcanbeusednotonlytopaythesoldiers'salaries,butalsotopayforthepurchaseofhorsesandothercommodities.Chinausessilktobuyanimalproductsfromgrasslandtribes,andgrasslandpeoplesellthesesilkswestwardalongtheSilkRoad.Itwasinthisprocessthatsilkrealizedthetransformationfromcurrencytocommodity.ItalsoexplainedwhyRomanandByzantinegoldcoinswereoftenfoundattheeasternendofthe"SilkRoad",whileChinesecoppercoinswererarelyunearthedintheWest.SilkItisthecurrencyoftheSilkRoad.

1.Promotingthedevelopmentofthetextileindustry

Thelocalsilkculturereactedtothelocaltextileindustry,makingitcarryoutaseriesofinnovationsandreformsontheoriginalbasis,thusImprovedlaborproductivity,creatednewfabrictypes,andfurtherenrichedsilkculture.

ThecontributionofChinesesilktotheworldfirstliesinthespreadofChinesesilktechnologyalongwiththespreadofsilk.ChinesesilktechnologywasfirstintroducedtoCentralAsia.Thereisastoryinthe"StoryoftheWesternRegionsoftheTangDynasty"abouttheprincessChuansiwhointroducedsilkwormeggstothekingdomofQuSatan.ThespreadofsilkwormeggsfromCentralAsiatoEuropetookplaceduringthereignofJustinian.APersianmonkhidthesilkwormeggsinawalkingstickandbroughtthemtoRome.Thus,theChinesesilkwormsilktechnologyspreadtoEurope.

Inadditiontosericulturetechnology,silkreelingandsilkjacquardtechnologyhavealsohadasignificantimpactonWesterntextiletechnology.Inhis"HistoryofScienceandTechnologyinChina",NeedhamlistedthescientificandtechnologicalachievementsthatChinahascontributedtotheworldstartingwith26Englishletters,including:F-jacquardandhorizontalloom;G-silkreelingmachine,spinningmachineSilkmachineandsilkmachine.BecauseEuropehasabsorbedthesetechnologies,itsowntextiletechnologyhasbeengreatlyimproved,whichhasledtomanymechanicalinnovations.ItisonthisbasisthatthetextileindustrialrevolutioninmodernEuropeispossible.Theprincipleofsilkjacquard,thatis,theprocessofstoringinformationandtransformingitintoajacquardprogramthroughthecoordinationofheddlesandtreadrods,orbycompilingpatterns,containsprofoundmathematicalideas.AfterbeingintroducedtoEurope,itnotonlyhadagreatinfluenceonthedevelopmentofEuropeansilkweavingtechnology,butalsohadagreatinfluenceonthedevelopmentofmoderntelegraphcommunicationtechnologyandevencomputerprinciples.

Foreignsilkculturehasanevengreaterimpactonthedevelopmentandinnovationofthelocaltextileindustry.AfterChinesesilkenteredEuropeancountries,themonarchsofvariouscountriesestablishedanddevelopedtheirownsilkweavingindustries.Inthisprocess,thespreadofsilkcultureisnotasimplecopy,butcontinuousimprovementandcontinuousfullness.Forexample,WesternEuropeansilkweaverscombinedtheirrichimaginationandfeelingsofcolorintothecreativityoftheancestorsoftheChinesenation,makingtextiletechnologyincreasinglysophisticatedandscientific,andbecomingtheforerunnerofmodernindustry.Itispreciselybecauseofthisextremelycreativecombinationthatgreatlyenrichedandpromotedthedevelopmentoftextiletechnology.Aftertheformationofforeignsilkculture,itwasfedbacktoChina,whichplayedanimportantroleinpromotingthedevelopmentandprogressofChina'stextileindustry,especiallythemodernmachinetextiletechnology,whichhadahugeimpactonthedevelopmentofChina'stextileindustry.

2.PromotingthedevelopmentofChineselanguageandliterature

SilkculturehasplayedabigroleinthegenerationanddevelopmentofChinesecharacters,whichisreflectedintheChinesecharactersasbeingrelatedtomulberry,silkworm,andsilk.Andtheproductionandapplicationofalargenumberof"纟"charactersandrelatedChinesecharacters.In"ShuowenJiezi",9353charactersofsealscriptareincluded,includingthe"纟"part,248characters,accountingforabout3%ofthetotalnumberofsealscripts.TherearealsoalargenumberofwordsrelatedtothesecharactersinChinese,suchas:silkworm,mulberry,sangzi,silkworm,silkreeling,spinning,silkroad,silkpainting,jadesilk,wealthsilk,etc.Mostofthesewordsarecloselyrelatedtotheproductionofsilkindustry.

Inaddition,therearemanyidiomsandallusionsrelatedtosilkculture,suchascocooningoneself,tricks,tricks,nightwalks,andhomecoming.Inaddition,alargenumberofliteraryworksalsodescribesericulturesilktoexpressemotionsorreflectsocialreality,suchasLiBai's"MoShangSang",DuFu's"BaiSiXing"andsoon.

3.Promotingthederivationoffolkculture

Silkcultureisrichinfolkcustoms.TheChineseworshipofthesilkwormgodhasahistoryofthousandsofyears.Mythsandlegendsareendless,andtherearemanysilkwormgods,andtherearenofewerthan10authenticsilkwormgodseverywhere.Numerousballads,proverbs,dialectsandidiomsaboutsilkculturearetheactivationofhistoryandaccumulatestrongfolkcustoms.Manycustoms,socialcustomsandlifeetiquettecustomsarerelatedtosilkculture.

4.Promotingthedevelopmentofartsandcrafts

Silkculturehaspenetratedintoallaspectsofculturallife,whichhasagreatimpactonpeople’saesthetictaste,andfurtheraffectsotherarts,evenPromotetheemergenceofsomenewartcategories.Thestyleofsilkpatternsinthepre-QinDynastywassimple,generous,andvaried.Thesepatternsinteractedwiththepatternsofpottery,metalware,andlacquerwareofthesamegeneration,andwerecompatiblewiththelevelofweavingtechnologyatthattime.ThepaintedlacquerwareoftheEasternZhouDynastycanbeseeninrichsecondaryandcomplexcolors,whichechoesthecolorcharacteristicsofsilkfabricsatthattime.Theoriginofthe"twelvechapterpattern"iscloselyrelatedtosilkhand-paintingandembroidery.The"twelve-chapterpattern"laterevolvedintoaspecialpatternontheemperor'sdragonrobeandbecameanimportantpartoftheancientcostumeculture.

TheinventionofChinesepaintingandcalligraphyricepaperisdirectlyrelatedtotheancientsilk"silk"and"silkcloth".Infact,theinventionofpaperisstillinfluencedbysilk.Theoriginalintentionofpaperisthatsilkisintheprocessofrinsing.Thedepositedsilkscrapsaredepositedintoathinlayercalledpaper.Inspiredbythis,peopleusefiberinsteadofsilkfibertomakepaper,whichhasbecomeamajorinventioninChina.Anothermajorinventionofprintingalsooriginatedinthesilkindustry.IthasbeenverifiedthatletterpressprintingonancientChinesesilkisthepredecessorofblockprinting.Intraditionalprintingprocesses,manypartsaredirectlyderivedfromprintingtechnology.Theinventionofpaperandprintinggreatlypromotedthedevelopmentofmanyartssuchascalligraphyandpainting.

5.Promotingtheexchangeofworldcultures

Silk,asoneofthegreatinventionsofancientChina,hascontributedalottoworldcivilizationthroughtheancientSilkRoad.Atthesametime,foreigncultureshavealsoadoptedTheentryoftheSilkRoadintoChinahasmadethelocalculturemorecolorful.JapanhasrepeatedlyacceptedChineseimmigrantstoliveinthecountryorsentenvoystoChinatolearnsilkweavingtechnology.AfterChineseimmigrants,largenumbersofJapanesestudentsandscholarlymonksaccompaniedthemissiontoJapan,theyplayedanimportantroleinJapan'spolitical,economic,andculturalreformanddevelopment.EspeciallyintheSuiandTangdynasties,thecultureoftheSuiandTangdynastieshadastrongimpactonJapanesesocietyandculture.InJapan,anunprecedented"ImitatedTangCulture"hasbeenformed,andithaslastedformorethan200years.AfterenteringChinaasafeedback,Japaneseculturehasbroadenedpeople’sspiritualhorizons.Manycultureshavealsobecomethethemesofpoetryandsongs.Somesilksarepatternedwithexoticgodsprayingforauspiciousnessorlegends,whichhavebeenabsorbedbyChinesecraftsmenandenrichedtheChinesepeople.Culturalinterest.Inaddition,asa"peacemessenger"ofvariouscountries,silkhasplayedakeyroleinthediplomacyofvariouscountries.Countriesusesilktradeormutualdonationofsilkfabricsasabreakthroughpointtostrengthentiesbetweencountries,maintainpeaceandstabilityininternationalrelations,andprovidegoodconditionsandanenvironmentfortheprogressanddevelopmentofworldcivilization.

OnJune22,2014,China,KazakhstanandKyrgyzstanjointlydeclaredtheeasternpartofthelandSilkRoad"SilkRoad:RoadNetworkofChang'an-TianshanCorridor"successfullydeclaredasaworldcultureHeritagebecamethefirstsuccessfulapplicationforheritagethroughcross-bordercooperation.

Silkclassification

Fourteencategories

Thesilkvarietiesaredividedinto14categoriesaccordingtothefabricstructure,warpandweftcombination,processingtechnologyandtheshapeofthesilksurface.Exceptforyarn,Luo,andcashmere,regardlessoftheflowerdepartmentorthegroundorganization,theothercategoriesarebasedonthegroundorganization.Eachtypeofsilksurfacecanhavetheperformanceofplain(training,bleaching,dyeing)orflower(weaving,printing).

Thirty-fivesubcategories

Mainlydividedaccordingtotheperformanceofsilksurface:

1,doubleCrepe:Plainweaveisused,withnowarptwist,twoleftandtworightstrongtwistedsilksareusedfortheweft,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithauniformcrepeeffect.

2.QiaoQi:Theplainweaveisused,andthewarpandweftusetwoleftandtworightstrongtwistedsilks.Thetextureisthinandlight,andthesilksurfaceisafabricwithgauzeandcrepeeffect.

3.Bi-crepe,notwistinwarp,Bi-crepethread(20/22Dx3plusStwist1600T/m,then20/22D1,plusZtwist1600T/m),itisfineanddensewrinklesOffabric.

4.Shun纡:non-twistwarp,weftuseunidirectionalstrongtwistsilk,silksurfaceisstraightwrinkledfabric.

5.TAFF:Useplainweave,dyeingwithwarpandweftfirst,fineandcrisptextureofcookedfabric.

6.Powerspinning:mulberrysilk(tussahsilk)rawweaveplainfabric.

7.Thinspinning:usingmulberrysilktowoven,plainweavefabricwithasquaremetersilkweightof6m/mandbelow.

8.Spunsilkspinning:plainweavefabricsmadeofspunsilkinbothwarpandweft.

9.Cottonsilk:Thewarpandweftaremadeofsilk-wrappedplainweave.

10.DoublePalace:AllorpartofthedoublePalacesilkfabric.

11.Knots:Allorpartoftheknots,slubsilk,fabricswithapimpleeffect.

12.Starpattern:fabricwithcrepeweave.

13.Ribbing:Afabricwithfrivoloushorizontalstripesononeorbothsides.

14.Flowerthread:Allorpartofthefabricismadeofcoloredtwistedthreadorcoloredthread.

15.Strip:Afabricwithahorizontalandverticalstripedpatternonthesilksurface.

16.Lattice:Afabricwithlatticepatternsonthesilksurface.

17.Toocool:Usefakeyarntoformatransparentfabricwithgauzeeyes.

18.Yarn-dyed:Allorpartofdyedsilkfabrics.

19.Double-sided:atripleweaveisapplied,andthefrontandbacksideshavethesametypeoftwillorsatinweavefabric.

20.Concave-convex:fabricwithconcavo-convexpatterns.

21,mountain-shaped;theapplicationofmountain-shapedorzigzagtwillweave,showingobviousmountain-shapedorzigzagflower-shapedfabric.

22.Flower:Jacquardfabric.

23.Trimming:Trimmedjacquardfabric.

24.Glossy:pureviscosesilkfabricwithglossviscosesilkorsemi-glosscuprosilk.

25.Matte:purerayonfabricofmatteviscosesilkormattecopperammoniasilk.

26.Theglitterisafabricthatispurelywovenorinterwovenwithluminoussuper-glossprofiledcross-sectionsyntheticfilaments,showingashiningeffect.

27.Brightlight:Itisafabricthatispurelywovenorinterwovenwithgoldandsilvercoins(aluminumskin),showingalighteffect.

28.Raw:non-refinedfabricwovenwithrawsilk.

29.Specialdyeing:warporweftyarnsarefabricswithtwo-colorandtie-dyedpatterneffectusingspecialdyeingtechniquessuchastie-dyeing.

30.Warpprinting:fabricswovenaftersilkprinting.

31、拉绒：经过拉绒整理的织品。

32、立绒：经过立绒整理的织品。

33、和服：门幅在40厘米以下，或整幅中织有各40厘米以下的开剪缝，供加工和服专用品。

34、大条：经纬采用柞大条丝的平纹织品。

35、缂丝：通过通经断（回）纬的方式制造的平纹或其他组织的特种丝织品。